Brand new engine startup/break in Qs

[Blk88GT]

My 05 M7 is the first EFI sled I've ever rebuilt the motor on. Everything else has been carbed. I'm not sure if it's different or not, but I have enough time and money invested that I want to ask the questions now before it's too late!

Right now, I am ready to fire the sled once I put fuel in it.

1. Should I mix the fuel for the first half tank? If so, what ratio?

2. I typically fire things up, check for leaks, let it come up to operating temp while the sled is on the stand using the gas/brake method, then go for a ride and ride the tar out of it.

Problem is, no snow here at all. I could do a few pulls in my yard on the grass?

Anything else I should know before I fire it? Priming the oil pump? Anything like that?

Any suggestions would be helpful.

Ian

 

[Blk88GT]

Anyone care to comment on the mixed fuel or priming the oil pump?

 

[jcrjet]

I would mix your fuel at 40:1 (3.2oz/gal), until you or sure your oil injection is working. It will smoke and probably foul your plugs, but its cheap insurance against siezure.

 

[glacierbear]

There has been a lot of discussion on here about break in procedures. Per Arctic cat run 100:1 premix in first tank of fuel and Arctic cat has a heat cycle procedure for setting the rings on new sleds that has been debated quite a bit on here. Run sled on stand until temp light comes on then let sled cool off and repeat multiple times. Ride conservatively for first 25 miles varying throttle position then let the fun begin.

 

[Sergeant HCR]

There has been a lot of discussion on here about break in procedures. Per Arctic cat run 100:1 premix in first tank of fuel and Arctic cat has a heat cycle procedure for setting the rings on new sleds that has been debated quite a bit on here. Run sled on stand until temp light comes on then let sled cool off and repeat multiple times. Ride conservatively for first 25 miles varying throttle position then let the fun begin.

I asked my dealer about this when I bought my 09 M8 HCR last month. They didn't know anything about it. Can you point us to a good thread on the subject?

Edit:

I found the procedure
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showpost.php?p=1841811&postcount=5

1. The dealer must ensure the first tank of fuel is
premixed at a 100:1 fuel to oil ratio.
2. Check the coolant level and fill if necessary (see
Operator Manual or Service Manual for instructions).
3. Elevate the rear of the snowmobile on a secure,
shielded jack stand.
4. Slowly vary the engine RPM and throttle position
gradually from idle position to a maximum of
6000 RPM until the Coolant Temperature Warning
Icon stays constantly lit while making sure not to
exceed 6000 RPM. Continue varying the throttle
and RPM for an additional 1-2 minutes.
NOTE: Make sure to lubricate the slide rails with
water or other appropriate coolant/lubricant to prevent
melting of the wear strip.
5. Allow the engine to cool to ambient temperature
(at least 30 minutes).
NOTE: Repeat steps 2-5 at this point.
6. As part of the standard operating procedure, operate
the snowmobile during the first 1 to 2 miles
under 6500 RPM to properly warm the engine
prior to extended wide-open throttle use.

 

[Blk88GT]

Yeah, that's for the new stuff.

Regardless, I got it fired up tonight and blew the loose lugs off the track. LOL

Seems strong so far, but it was too dark to do any grass burns. I'll try on Saturday and see how it goes. Sounds a lot healthier anyways!

 

[wiley75]

There has been a lot of discussion on here about break in procedures. Per Arctic cat run 100:1 premix in first tank of fuel and Arctic cat has a heat cycle procedure for setting the rings on new sleds that has been debated quite a bit on here. Run sled on stand until temp light comes on then let sled cool off and repeat multiple times. Ride conservatively for first 25 miles varying throttle position then let the fun begin.

I'm really curious (skeptical) what the heat cycle procedure is accomplishing? The cylinder base gaskets on our sleds are steel and should not require retorquing. Neither should the o-ring heads. I fail to understand how heating/cooling internal components would help break them in.

 

[stripe]

100:1 premix in first tank of fuel worm it up for 10 min hit the trail run it hard for short burst after 5-6 mi run it as hard as you can

 

[snowditch]

Here is a site: www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Read it carefully and it will make sense. I have broke in new 2 stroke engines as described and found it worked with no harm done. I had a watercraft engine that I rebuilt and broke it in hard. My mistake was having the head reshaved for higher compression. say over 200psi. I failed to use enough race fuel say 110 octane. and it blew a hole in the piston. durring the engine rebuild I noticed how clean the piston was, no blow-by. I had good compression for the first season and felt the hard break in was a success. The second season I chose to up the compression from 155 to 175psi but the machinist took too much off and I ended up with over 200psi. My mistake for not running high enough octane fuel to prevent detonation. But I rebuilt the engine recently and started it just long enough to check operation but plan on a hard break-in come next summer. I did a hard break in on a Firecat 600 three years ago and still own the sled. I broke in a CF 700 by letting it idle for long periods of time in the garage and rode for two seasons no problems. If you read the web site carefully you'll understand. And Yes this is a very contriversial topic!!

 

[Qreiff]

I'm really curious (skeptical) what the heat cycle procedure is accomplishing? The cylinder base gaskets on our sleds are steel and should not require retorquing. Neither should the o-ring heads. I fail to understand how heating/cooling internal components would help break them in.

Seating of the rings.

 

[Blk88GT]

I break everything in as hard as possible, that's not the issue. I'm taking it out on the lawn tomorrow for a few pulls.

I've got some 40:1 in the tank, but I'll syphon that out and run straight now that I know the pump is primed up (it used oil in the 20 or so minutes I had it on the stand)

Thanks guys!

 

[likkerpig]

I want video!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Blk88GT]

I'll see if I can arrange it.

 

[wiley75]

Seating of the rings.

Hmm. So running the engine under no load (other than spinning the track) to the point where it is almost overheating and then letting it cool off and doing it over again supposedly "seats the rings". I just don't buy it for a multitude of reasons, which I'll keep to myself. To each their own. I suppose there is more than 1 way to skin a cat (no pun intended)!