Boondocker box - mapping proceedure

[ItDoAble]

Like to hear some ideas on testing proceedures for establishing mapping on the box. Not looking for 'I push button X ...', but something like 'I start at 5000 RPM, do a 30 sec run, watch EGT's, check plug color/piston wash .. then run 6000 RPM ... etc..

Have a M8 (pipe/head/port/intake) that I just went 40:1 premix on (BDX oil elimination), which means a fatter mapping is required. Had it dialed in pretty good last year, but now have to do it all over again. Going up on Saturday for a day of tuning, like to hear some good ideas for testing processes.

There always seems to be a better way ...

Thanks ..

 

[Ski-Laxn]

Where you headed Saturday.

 

[ItDoAble]

Probably up to Corona. Mile-Hi club is doing a test & tune day.

I'll be helping out some state guys with 88dB sound testing. We're hoping to get some data on what setups equate to what dB. Thinking I'll post what we discover in the CO section.

Perfect opportunity to sneek away for some map testing, and perhaps a new clutch setup or two I've been contemplating (and not hold up other riders on a regular riding day).

 

[shredjim]

I'm interested in hearing about this too. Not to hijack your thread, but I'd like to add that it would be great to hear how it is recommended to establish your base line egt numbers. If you are starting off with your mods already done and therfore can't use your stock setup to establish your base line, what is the best way to do it?

 

[AaronBND]

Have a M8 (pipe/head/port/intake) that I just went 40:1 premix on (BDX oil elimination), which means a fatter mapping is required. Had it dialed in pretty good last year, but now have to do it all over again.

Why do you assume it needs to be fatter because of oil injection delete? Run it in all rpm ranges and check the plugs a few times.........adjust up or down from there.

Aaron

 

[slyrydr]

when an engine has oil injection, the amount of oil is independant of the air/fuel ratio...if oil is then added to the fuel in the tank, then that equation changes...for example, let's say a sled is dialed in absolutely perfect, and just for illustration, let's say that for every 100 molecules of air, there is 15 molecules of fuel (with oil injection)....now you add oil to the fuel tank, some of those 15 molecules of fuel are now going to be oil, not gas, so with fewer gas molecules, you're going to have to richen the mixture (more gas) to get back the gas to 15 molecules/100 molecules of air...or burn down, 'cause you were dialed in perfect....if your jetting prior to the oil injection delete was rich, you are now leaner and maybe, just maybe you're now perfect...but you won't know unless you pull plugs, check wash, etc.

 

[backcountryislife]

doable,

In theory the oil delete puts you approx 3% low on fuel, which should equate to 6 points on the bd box. Theory.

I'm guessing you'll want to leave the 6500& below alone, and bump the 7's up about 4-6 points. I would hope you have a baseline already, but if not you want to be sure of where you're at. I think Aaron may be right though, you may not need to do anything. On my 1000, I went up about 20-30 degrees on the top end but didn't notice a difference in the rest of the rpm range. If you're so tight that 20 degrees would burn you on an M8, you're way tighter than you need to be!

I'll be up at corona on sat & would be happy to help. I'm not a fan of the BD box, but I've wasted WAY too much of my time learning how to use them effectively to not put it to use occasionally!

Kaleb

Maybe we can also do some beacon practice for all you sally b**ches that were scared to drive on Sunday too!!!!

 

[ItDoAble]

Why do you assume it needs to be fatter because of oil injection delete? Run it in all rpm ranges and check the plugs a few times.........adjust up or down from there.

Aaron

Because the oil is premixed with the fuel, not injected after the throttle bodies .. which means less fuel in the same volume of fluid coming out if the injectors. 40:1 premix should be about 2.5% less fuel. No?

 

[ItDoAble]

doable,

In theory the oil delete puts you approx 3% low on fuel, which should equate to 6 points on the bd box. Theory.

I'm guessing you'll want to leave the 6500& below alone, and bump the 7's up about 4-6 points. I would hope you have a baseline already, but if not you want to be sure of where you're at. I think Aaron may be right though, you may not need to do anything. On my 1000, I went up about 20-30 degrees on the top end but didn't notice a difference in the rest of the rpm range. If you're so tight that 20 degrees would burn you on an M8, you're way tighter than you need to be!

I'll be up at corona on sat & would be happy to help. I'm not a fan of the BD box, but I've wasted WAY too much of my time learning how to use them effectively to not put it to use occasionally!

Kaleb

Maybe we can also do some beacon practice for all you sally b**ches that were scared to drive on Sunday too!!!!

Thanks Kaleb, welcome the help ..

I have a baseline map, but the EGT is new this year so no baseline temps.

Sally Itdoable

 

[slyrydr]

when rejetting an engine that has been modified, it's always best to go one step at a time....y-pipe, pipe, porting, timing, etc....if you go for the whole ball of wax at one time, the shop doing the mods, porting etc. probably can give you a good idea of where you need to be...also pipe manufacturer and other after market performance products should be able to give you some idea as to what tuning advice will be helpful....so let's say your basic engine was using 360 main jets, and you add a pipe (maybe 2-3 jet sizes), porting (maybe 2 jet sizes), timing key (1 jet size)....now i have a need for 5-6 jet sizes more than i had, and just to be safe i add 2 more jet sizes because i don't want to burn down that expensive rebuild...so now i go test...i warm up the engine without going wide open...once the engine is warm, i take it to a place where i have a reasonable straight shot, and hit it wide open...if it stutters and doesn't run clean, that is good, because now i know that i'm rich, and just decrease main jet sizes until it just cleans out....now i go ride and get a feel for whether the engine loads up under actual riding, i also now start looking at plug readings, they should still be rich, probably wet black/just black....continue to decrease the main jet size until the black becomes a dark coffee color.....follow the same process for the mid range jetting, but now i'm paying more and more attention to throttle response, and less to egts and plug wash, because there is far less heat build up at low and mid throttle settings (i didn't say to pay no attention to egts, just less)... as a ballpark, most nicasile engines you can use 900-1100 degrees as a working temperature for mid range, and 1150-1350 for full power...these are guidelines only, individual engine and egt probe locations will give different results.....main thing, go slow, being in a hurry is expensive....don't be bashful about asking someone who has a similar setup for his input....it frequently takes me a dozen or more tuning sessions to come up with a good running engine...and to get it dialed always takes longer...these ideas are only designed to get you close, the rest is up to you and how close to the edge you are willing ($) to run..

 

[Arctic Thunder]

When are they going to come up with a closed loop system. It adjust fuel mixture based on A/F ratio's. Make is simple. You ride it controls, your done!

As for the box tuning. I know that a shot of fuel when you are hot on the EGT's is instantaneous. So I don't need to run at a specific throttle position for a long time to tell if it is hot or not.

I have the nitrous button setup on my box to capture the settings at the specific points. So if I am cruising along and I get the red flashing from my Koso gauge I hit the nitrous button, capture the current RPM range, throttle position and fuel adjustment. Stop make the adjustment and do it again.

Like others said after several rides you should be very close and then just tuning for elevation/temp after that.

Thunder

 

[ItDoAble]

When are they going to come up with a closed loop system. It adjust fuel mixture based on A/F ratio's. Make is simple. You ride it controls, your done!

As for the box tuning. I know that a shot of fuel when you are hot on the EGT's is instantaneous. So I don't need to run at a specific throttle position for a long time to tell if it is hot or not.

I have the nitrous button setup on my box to capture the settings at the specific points. So if I am cruising along and I get the red flashing from my Koso gauge I hit the nitrous button, capture the current RPM range, throttle position and fuel adjustment. Stop make the adjustment and do it again.

Like others said after several rides you should be very close and then just tuning for elevation/temp after that.

Thunder

Hitting the NOS button to capture data sounds slick .. don't have time to do it before Sat., but would like to learn more. Assuming this is done without NOS installed, just need to install a button and set capture settings? Pulling out my box intructions now ...

See, there are always better ways of doing things.

 

[backcountryislife]

I'll try to remember to bring a button & LED along, it does make a big difference.

 

[AaronBND]

I have the nitrous button setup on my box to capture the settings at the specific points. So if I am cruising along and I get the red flashing from my Koso gauge I hit the nitrous button, capture the current RPM range, throttle position and fuel adjustment. Stop make the adjustment and do it again. Thunder

Ewww........Tell us more! I would love to do this. I am assuming you must wire a button into the BD plug, but how do you set the box up to capture?

Aaron

 

[likkerpig]

Ewww........Tell us more! I would love to do this. I am assuming you must wire a button into the BD plug, but how do you set the box up to capture?

Aaron

Boondocker makes a nitrous button/LED combo you can wire into your BD box. From what I've read, in a nutshell, you set up the nitrous function to capture the settings, the LED light you configure in the box to illuminate when you're in the MID fuel range on the BD box. so you're cruisin along, notice it's running hot, if the LED is on you're in the MID tuning range. SHOULD make tuning easier...light is on, you're in MID. If not, you're either LO or HI and depending on throttle position you should be able to narrow that down fairly quickly. This is all theory and reading the manual a couple times at this point....

 

[ItDoAble]

Found it in the instructions .. BD has a .pdf version on their website.

Pg 11

4. The Stats Capture feature can be used to determine RPM, and if the load setting is LO, MD, or HI. The nitrous
button can be configured to capture these stats (see nitrous configuration section below). From the Main Menu,
select N2O, set Btn to CAP. Whenever the button is pressed, the Stats: Capture screen will be displayed. The
current stats will be captured when the button is released.

N2O Menu in “Capture” mode:
Fuel TPS RPM Btn
040 OFF OFF��CAP

 

[backcountryislife]

Boondocker makes a nitrous button/LED combo you can wire into your BD box. From what I've read, in a nutshell, you set up the nitrous function to capture the settings, the LED light you configure in the box to illuminate when you're in the MID fuel range on the BD box. so you're cruisin along, notice it's running hot, if the LED is on you're in the MID tuning range. SHOULD make tuning easier...light is on, you're in MID. If not, you're either LO or HI and depending on throttle position you should be able to narrow that down fairly quickly. This is all theory and reading the manual a couple times at this point....

bingo.

There are a few more things you can do with the led or button as well. For example, you can set up the button to add fuel, then if you run across a rough spot, you can add fuel, if that works, then increase fuel in that range permanently.

still rather have an attitude box, but if you like F'ing with the sled, the bd box can be fun