Bogging Pros

[beamslayer]

For those of you that are having bogging issues can we start a thread on what we have tried,what color injectors ,year , miles,stock or modded ,ect.

2011
1495 miles
blue injectors
PMS kit,Par 13/1 head ,hps can
changed TPS ,EGs probe , ev solinoid ,knock sensor
Checked comp 150 psi ,voltage 14.9 ,fuel 60 psi ,coolant sensor ,knock sensor ,t-map sensor, speed controller,tss ,wire harness and reeds.
Cleaned EV , boost port,and hoses
It has been at the dealer now for 3 weeks. they are trying DW but no luck so far.
Sled pulls hard than falls on it face and comes right back, goes in to det mode mid throttle.

 

[mntmaster]

oops, didn't see the mid throttle part

 

[geo]

It's really hard to talk apples to apples here cause there are 3 different years and three different programs and a million different combinations of engine condition and clutching combos and conditions.

Say all the mechanical stuff is good. TPS, TSW, VES, FPP and all the other letters that come on today engines to meet the EPA requirements. IF you load your motor different (clutching) the CFI2 system will need a different map and it doesn't need to be very much different.
Throw in the self protect system (det sensor, exh sensor, coolant temp sensor, intake temp sensor, pressure sensor) that makes changes on the fly and it becomes very difficult to pinpoint.

Why is that? IMO it's because the injector is what 2.5" away and pointed straight at the spark plug. Very little room for error for fuel quantity because of very little mixing time. Throw in the fact that lots of us throw in some oil in the gas and spark plug can be washed in fuel-oil mix or trying to ignite not enough fuel with oil in the mix.
It's a very very sensitive system.

I have a 13 and probably the best program so far but it is very lean at 5750 to 6750 0 to 60%. Mod it and you have to throw lot's of fuel into that area. Throw in too much you get a bog. Throw in too little and you get a bog or det. Get it perfect then change the clutching signifigantly and you get a bog or det. Run along at a lean spot and you can scorch the pistons. Run along at a rich spot and you foul the plugs and have to wait for a blast to clean them off.
I learned a lot this year about the CFI2 this year but I learned the most when I put on the Boony box with a capture button.

So like I said apples to apples and it is very difficult to help. If you have gone through all the mechanical stuff and it is all good IMO you really only have two things left. "Jet" it or put your thumb through it.
"Jetting" it Is more difficult with the CFI2 because you don't have the help of mixing in the crankcase first (picking up residual fuel , leaving a little extra fuel) and there are lots of #'s to change with the buttons but with patience and remembering to always go rich first it can be done fairly easily.
Putting your thumb through it is why everyone doesn't notice it. It's like if you have a squeak or rattle in your truck your ear gets in tune. Turn on the radio and it's gone.

 

[TRS]

Do you have the decomp. holes plugged in your cyl.? Have the cases been decked? Did you unhook or plug the ex. valve solenoid? Have you tried it with the stock head and can? What elevation did you do the comp. test? Cold motor, warm motor? What elevation do you ride? Does it only have problems at low elevation? What I have experienced with the CFI2, 150# on pump gas doesn't work. 130# at 6700' has had issues.

 

[rick5150]

Geeze scare me stock guys!

Lol

Although I've even felt a bog once bone stock 13 on the low end pre climb wack full throttle (10-60s 8k-10k) was not an over rev scenario
Powered through it fine never happened again...420 miles on sled
Anyways I mainly responded to keep an eye on this thread easier...

 

[icerider600]

Just got back from the Bighorns and this was the first time I ever had a bog?? 2012-800 with 650 miles on it. I did notice one thing, the bog only happened after a long trail ride, it did it 2 times on me after trail rides, and each time it only bogged out 2 times then it went back to running great, kinda weird?? other than that it ran like a champ and outclimbed all my buddies new XM's very proud of my Pro

Dallas

 

[beamslayer]

It ran fine last year with head and can, Others are running the Fix it kit with no problems. Elevation is 3000 + or - 200 and goes up to 6000. Yes I tried with evs plugged and comp was checked cold. Since the rebuild it has maybe 100 miles on it.
I chased a rpm problem for awhile until I realised the clutch was shot ( I had that rebuilt while I was doing the engine ) I sent it back and he fixed it I hope.
It seems like their are a few pros with this bogging issue I have tried everything I can think of and checked everything anyone has suggested.
Every dealer I talked to said it needs to be put on the dw to fix it well it is their and they can not figure it out either .
What really sucks is I have to hear it it all the time from my ridding buddies who ride older ski doos and cats telling me not to worry they brought a rope.
I am not sure it is for the pro or it is for me wrecking their ride.

 

[Jeffdutch123]

Looks to me like your comp is too high, try disconnecting ev solenoid and run lighter springs, you say you ran this combo last year and it ran fine? Did you install fix kit this year? I just installed fix kit on my 11 pro and gained 8 lbs comp. It may be that fix kit and 13.1 head is just too much for the fuel your using.150lbs is asking a lot from this motor with ev solenoid connected with pump gas, way too much heat being contained in motor with valves being closed for so long, no surprise that this is going to cause deto and a bog in the midrange.

 

[TRS]

Why haven't they upgraded you to the yellow injectors?

 

[GoBigParts]

Mine is a 2012 ProRMK 800. It is all stock with 2250 miles on it now. I have had an occassional bog here and there. Usaully 6800-7800 RPM Range. I have not noticed anything in the last few rides except when an engine light actually came on. Then it would bog everytime I hit it hard. The code said Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor. So they replaced the sensor in the pipe and I have not noticed a bog since.

It was so off and on. Usually would happen my first day out then it would go away as the weekend went on. It was more of an annoyance than anything.

Here is what they dealer (Polaris) has done so far.

Checked and Clean TPS
New Spark Plug Caps
New Injectors.
Set TPS again and found it slightly out.
New Pipe Sensor
I'm sure there were other things but don't recall off memory.

The last tps adjustment helped the most.

I am almost convinced to get it perfect a fuel controller is needed to add more fuel to the mid range. Something Polaris can not do because fo EPA.

Like I said mine is stock and is under an 4 year warranty that I purchased at a good price through snowcheck.

 

[gopher-it!]

valves

Looks to me like your comp is too high, try disconnecting ev solenoid and run lighter springs, you say you ran this combo last year and it ran fine? Did you install fix kit this year? I just installed fix kit on my 11 pro and gained 8 lbs comp. It may be that fix kit and 13.1 head is just too much for the fuel your using.150lbs is asking a lot from this motor with ev solenoid connected with pump gas, way too much heat being contained in motor with valves being closed for so long, no surprise that this is going to cause deto and a bog in the midrange.

By disconnecting ev solenoid are you talking about electricly by unplugging connector or blocking breather hoses on the valve housing?

 

[beamslayer]

I just talked to Shawn at MNTEK and he said they are experiencing some issues with the head and kit making to much compression so he advised to try stock head or a fuel controller .
He also said that some of the fuel lines are deteriorating and to check that .
Dealer said they are installing yellow injectors today.

 

[Jeffdutch123]

By disconnecting ev solenoid are you talking about electricly by unplugging connector or blocking breather hoses on the valve housing?

I was referring to plugging the hoses and reverting to spring pressure to control ev opening. This will allow valves to begin opening earlier thus reducing heat which should reduce the possibility of detonation. Also running some race gas or 100ll will help