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Blow off valve

I'am going to pull my intercooler off {boondocker race gas TM8}, where should I put the blow off valve it looks like the pump gas does not have one
 
I can tell you that when I'm running pump gas levels on ours we can hear the Bov working when you chop the throttle.

Also, our reeds seem to have been lasting WAY longer than some people are saying, not sure if that could be a function of the BOV to an extent maybe?
 
Are you running a mini intercooler or just deleting the intercooler all together? I have a charge tube with a BOV location I took off my M8T that was used for a race gas set up. I went to a mini intercooler.

BOV are adjustable so you can have them opening all the time if you want. I dont beleive they are absolutely necessary unless you are building bigger boost, but some guys like to hear the sound.
 
Yep... I run it for the sound... like those guys that beef up civics...:D

I run a cutler stage II, so I can run pump (8.5) to race (15). I don't want the innerheater on my sled, which is one of the reasons I run Cutler.

Everyone will have a different take, and the BD boys can calculate you to death on the benefits of an innerheater, so I'm sure they work, and the guys who run BOV's can give you real world answers to why they're a good idea, so I'm sure there are reasons to run them as well...

On the non innerheated kits with a bov, they seem to be mounted at the apex of the bend before it drops into the airbox.

funny, I search cutler stage II & the first pic that pops up is one I took!

This is where it's at on my sled.
165300_1532179026486_1295088056_31204692_1912742_n.jpg


on the other hand, this is where push puts them.

turbo10.25990233_std.jpg


Are you gonna do the bending yourself? Or are you getting a PG charge tube from BD? COuld you have them toss the BOV on for you, where they feel it would be best?
 
If I'm upgrading to the BD RG kit, do they sell a different charge tube with the BOV? I was gonna ask them about that but forgot.
 
Cutlers theory on intercoolers simply states that if you use cooler air to compress then the charge temps will be cooler too, (cooler charge air makes more horsepower) this is very true. I would really like to see the charge temps on one of these sleds compared to a intercooled unit running the same boost. But really who has put a air temp sensor on one? My mini intercooler has dropped my charge temps over 80 degrees at the same boost, real seat of the pants performance, but who knows. It uses a fan so it is much more efficient than the old interheaters of old.
I am not knocking the BOV as they really have a purpose, and definately might help in reed life but so does cooler charge temps. Some guys claim that the BOV will dump excess pressure in order not to stall the compressor and thus give you less lag. This is probably true, but dont you want to keep some charge in the tube for on again off again throttle? I think having the right amount of pressure in the charge tube when you get back on it really helps with the turbo lag and spooling of the turbo. Thus the reasoning for larger boost applications and leave a little charge in the tube on lower boost.
Just my opinion, i dont claim to know it all but I am a fast learner.
 
valve

I stuck my fresh air intake out of the hood and it went from not being able to touch the intercooler to luk warm.until you are in deep powder and it geets so hot you cant touch it but the charge tube that goes to the intercooler is cool.once aluimunim gets hot it takes a while to cool down.
 
I guess my main question is what level of boost do you really need to add the BOV? It doesn't make sense to me to add a BOV at 9 psi on a pump gas kit, but what's the minimum thresh hold? 12 psi? 15 psi?

You might be able to get away without one on 12 psi, but I think if you were wanting to run 14-15 psi it'd be a decent idea to have one just to prevent damange to the compressor if nothing else.
 
Well, that leads to a different question then... is it just the boost level that would matter or would somehow the "output" level be a factor?

For example, 9psi at my elevation is still PG levels, but at 0 feet it's full race, so how do you compare, does it matter in this discussion?
I'll push 15psi up here, but that's like 9 for some of you guys I'd guess.

Either way the boost in the tube is the same either way (115psi boost = is psi wherever you're at) so seems like guys like me who run 10-12, but are barely beyond pump gas would be in need of one more than someone running full race gas at 0 feet.

btw, doesn't the BOV only work when it hits a certain point, so then it wouldn't pull all of the boost out of the tube every time you let off the throttle, it just relieves at a certain level of pressure.
 
i did some more research into the bov requirements and my turbo rebuilder said the vanes are good to 10 lbs

today i went in to calgarys most respected speed shop and their most knowledgable guy said that when you let off quickly, the backpressure can be almost triple the outgoing pressure going back to the turbo...so i would now say that having a bov even under 10 lbs is a good idea...the turbo may take it at 10 for years or it may go right away....

ill do more research before i advise...
 
Well, that leads to a different question then... is it just the boost level that would matter or would somehow the "output" level be a factor?

For example, 9psi at my elevation is still PG levels, but at 0 feet it's full race, so how do you compare, does it matter in this discussion?
I'll push 15psi up here, but that's like 9 for some of you guys I'd guess.

Either way the boost in the tube is the same either way (115psi boost = is psi wherever you're at) so seems like guys like me who run 10-12, but are barely beyond pump gas would be in need of one more than someone running full race gas at 0 feet.

btw, doesn't the BOV only work when it hits a certain point, so then it wouldn't pull all of the boost out of the tube every time you let off the throttle, it just relieves at a certain level of pressure.

True boost is boost, but it's the density of the air that changes the higher you go. So unless you can increase the density(NOS) somehow, you'll always have that loss the same if your motor was naturally aspirated at that high elevation. Problem with NOS is that you wouldn't have enough to keep the air dense all day long when you ride. Basically NOS just cools the intake charge temps down so cold it makes up for the loss and then some, brings in it's own fuel or has extra fuel added in injectors to make up for it too.... I guess that's why they say Turbo's love NOS when the charge temps get hot. I may not be 100% accurate, but that's how I grasp the whole relation to air density & Turbo's...
 
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