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Blink Code 10

george

Member
Lifetime Membership
Hello all....I happily purchased a 2006 900 Switchback with blink code 3 and blink code 10 (knowing this when I bought it). So I T/s B/C 3 and found the TPS failed, built the "tooling" from the other postings, and set it up. Replace the intake boots and installed V Force 3 reeds while I was in that deep. Set the throttle cable, oiler cable, and throttle gap. Code gone. Put a 159 track under it with extraverts and anti stab kit, changed gearing and chain, rad eliminater, both clutches rebuilt, etc, etc. Started T/s B/C 10, removed the flywheel and found the stator was brand new, removed the tank and tested. The stator, 5 tooth CPS, 22 tooth CPS, ECM harness while plugged into the the stator (wiggling and bending the harness), all ok. Tried swapping ECM's from another working sled, same thing. Checked gap on CPS's in all positions, crank run out, key way and key, same thing.
Does anyone have any other suggestions what to check next? Other than buying a new harness may be the next step. Or if anyone knows wher the 5 tooth wheel is supposed to be located when the engine is at TDC on MAG side? I am out of ideas!
 
never seen anyone with a 10 code flash before, lol.

glad to see your in the know of these sleds and on your way to a very nicely setup 900.

have you tried "ohming" the wiring from the ECU to teh stator, CPCs?

hopefully youll get some other ideas here, this is a new one for me!
 
yes, pinned right from the ecm to stator and both cps, ecm to ground, checked the ecm connector pins for looseness and pin drag, I think when I get back to working on it, I will check the volage regulator output. Possibly it is not supplying the correct voltage to the ecm. will see.
 
Well finally got back to working on it and a buddy was giving me a hand. Tried a different regular and the same thing. He changed the hieght of the CPS to closer and farther than the spec 0.035", and took one of the bolts out of it to get it higher. At roughly 0.150" it started and ran great, moved it closer and code 10 came back. Not sure what the heck is the reasoning for this but I am not sure if I should leave it like this or carry on T/s.
 
Well......... put it all back together and hopped on, got 1/2 mile and it's back. Did some quick testing, found that if the multi meter is in parallel with the CPS 5 tooth wiring measuring resistance, it runs great and code goes away. Unplug the meter and code comes back. Tried a small resister between the green and white/green wire and runs great no code. Hmmmm??????? Going to be pulling the seat off to do more testing.
 
Finally, after many hours, parts, swearing, and beers the problem has been solved. Found that the 5 tooth tone wheel had rotated on the flywheel by over an inch. Tapped it back into place, couple of spot welds, pull on the rope, and code gone. Took it for a 4 hr ride and works well.
 
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