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Big Boys On Zx

Could someone give me a little input on the perfect setup on the zx chassis when someone weighs around 250. I just let my limiter strap out to where its loose when setting on the ground. I haven't tested yet but would like to know whats working for all you other zx machines. I put a 16 w 151 on my 02 800 x and its seems to climb real well but when riding with a dragon 700, M7, REV XP, I seem to have to work my sled a little harder. I give up about 60 to 100 pounds in body weight. If I drag them my sled seems to be faster ( didn't drag the xp but it would probably take me, but in the steep and deep they seem to stay up on top and can gain speed while I trench my sled to the top while holding it wide open. People I'm riding with told me to let out my limiter strap and this would help quite a bit. I also have all my suspension as stiff as possible for when I do drop offs and jumps. I also have heal clicker clutching rebuild.
Thanks
 
Get rid of the stock skis--Simmons will get you up on plane faster. Get rid of the swaybar, have rear torsion springs on stiffest settings or replace with stiffer springs, drill a hole in the drop bracket and drop the axle. I'm not sure you want to loosen the limiter strap too much as it increases your angle of attack which can cause a trench.

Check your gearing--the stock sled needs to gear down at least 1-2 teeth depending on altitude.
 
It's the weight thing, I'll bet you're kinda stuck, us big fellas just can't get around in the fluff like the little people. Once the snow sets up it will be alot easier to get around.
 
I did put VE drop down brackets on

I also have simmons skies on wich I like but hate how they catch rocks, logs, and trailer ramps. I can now trench a little deeper and go and get out of some spots I couldn't before but I guess I may be stuck. I do have stock gearing how much does it help to drop 1 or 2 teeth on the sprocket. This will gear me down a bit. What will the sway bar removal do?
Thanks for all the info
Rick
 
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I also have simmons skies on wich I like but hate how they catch rocks, logs, and trailer ramps. I can now trench a little deeper and go and get out of some spots I couldn't before but I guess I may be stuck. I do have stock gearing how much does it help to drop 1 or 2 teeth on the sprocket. This will gear me down a bit. What will the sway bar removal do?
Thanks for all the info
Rick



The swaybar being gone will allow you to manipulate the sled side to side alot easier and your sidehilling and plowing will improve.


best thing you can do if you ride powder.
 
By removing the sway bar you give the T arm suspension more independence which helps when you have to make steering adjustments--also reduces friction in the front end. You don't need the sway bar with Simmons skis because they are aggressive enough that the front end will not wash out on the trail. At 230# you inside ski will not fly too high.

The OEM full length skid plate helps to get the sled up on plane--if you don't have one, get one installed.

You need to check the gear ratio--a 19 top works best at altitude and gives the clutch a quicker up shift to take advantage of the torquey Rotax mid range which should help the trench.

I grind down the leading edge of the wear bars of the Simmons to help eliminate hanging up on rocks, but I use 2 x 4's on my trailer for trailer guides--on other's trailer I carry (2) 4' long 2 x 4's to place on the tailgate to drive up over the back of the trailer.

I managed to eliminate about 35# from my sled with a Buck flat top seat, removed most of the bogie wheels, Dynoport mountain can, ceramic coated pipe, sway bar removal, removal of the engine compartment foam and removal of the boost bottle.

If all else fails, give Jenny a call:D
 
Good info here! Is there a way to disconnect the sway bar w/o cutting it out to see how it handles?

I am 6'4" tall...horrible ergo's with the stock setup. I have a 2" riser block...but it moves the bar back too...Looking into a pivot setup. How high can I raise my bars w/o extended cables/line?
How hard is it to put extended throttle cables on...one looks buried!


Also is there any aftermarket seatfoam/covers available besided the ridiculous $$$ Boss seats?

Would like to hear more about suspension setup also!
 
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The Boss high rise seat I have on mine is worth every penny. IMO buy a longer brake line and a custom longer throttle cable. You'll be much happier than with an extension. If you have an 01-03 model 800 you are WWWAAAAAYYYYYYYY down on power compared to the new sleds. Meaning, you can not maintain the track speed they can. Clutching on stock sleds SUCKS. Plus, like me, your fat, or big boned or what ever you want to call it.
 
I have an 03 zx and a 04 rev.....it's the chassis.

I'm also a large waistline and the rev is way better for climbing and powder. If you try to compare to the newer design, you're wasting time. Putting on the new track getting some new ski's and doing a bit of tuning and then have fun...you'll have a hard time making it work like the new sleds...
 
I have an 03 zx and a 04 rev.....it's the chassis.

I'm also a large waistline and the rev is way better for climbing and powder. If you try to compare to the newer design, you're wasting time. Putting on the new track getting some new ski's and doing a bit of tuning and then have fun...you'll have a hard time making it work like the new sleds...

I agree. I ended up installing a skid and track from a 04 AC 1M 900, Works way better than the zx skid. Its the chassis. Dino
 
FOR SALE 02 800 300 miles on new motor :) $4500

Just kidding I just put all this money in this beast and I'm going to try some of the suggestions and see how things go. Maybe I will have to upgrade next year. Just wish I could just get a bit more out of it or up on top a little more. I think if I would have gone with the RKT kit to put it at 168 horse I would have been happier than with the SLP. I feel its not any faster than stock was last year. Might be gearing with the new track but the 04 rev 16w 151 is suppose to be lighter than the stock 151 15w. Rev track is ported. I have stock gearing 19 43. Maybe a gear down will help.
 
I put a 156x16x2.5 on my 03 summit. It made a world of difference, I also geared it down to a 19 tooth top, gutted the air box and am running Jaws pipes.
 
Ok I'm 6'2'' and 270 ready to ride. I put a 162 Attack 20 (yeah, weird track for a doo but I got it cheap) with a 3 inch skid setback from a 144 and running a big wheel kit. Also dropped gearing with 7 tooth 3" pitch drivers and went to a 19/47 set up, like a tractor! Had a local upholstery shop just fill in the butt stop on the seat clear forward to gain height and took some out of the sides, also ran an 8 inch bar riser from Fly. I have RKT's new piston only kit in mine with mildly ported cylinders running a .8 mm base gasket and had my head cut to counter, that advanced port timing. Don't take my word for it though, I just built this sled, I rode it last year with the bar risers and am convinced they are the best 80 bucks you will EVER spend! Breaking in the motor this weekend so I'll keep you posted on how it works. Budy has one with the thick base gasket and cut head, helped a ton! Good luck!
 
02 800 144

This is my first project machine. Buying new one next year and keeping this machine to tinker with.

I have gotten some good ideas from this post and others :)


I have V-Force III reed blocks and Dyno port pipe & can. Had to replace my stock pipe due to cracking and a poor weld job. Dyno port pipe was cheaper.

I have heard that cutting off 2mm of the air horns in the airbox gives better airflow and free hp -- is this true? Would gutting airbox be better?
 
I gutted mine. Don't know if it made much difference or not. If I were you I would go ahead and gut it, if your going to have it apart any way.
 
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