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Best year for pro rmk stock a arms

roughrider99

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Hey guys is there a model year of the pro rmk with better a arms than the rest. I keep bowing out my lower a arms and even bent a shock shaft cause of it. I'm not keen on going aftermarket as I like to keep a spare front end on hand and its cost effective to buy stock and easy to find if I need one in a pinch. I've been using 2012 a arms btw
 
The steel a-arms are all the same... Same arms all the way back to 2006 RMK's/Dragons.
Only the ball joints and bushings are different on the IQ's.. but the arms are the same.

Same steel, same welds, same jigs to make them.

The bolt on, steel (not bonded) stock units are from 2011-2016 Standard RMK's.

And from 2011 & 2012 PRO RMK's.

IMO... you should go with an aftermarket arm as they are stronger and cost less, but to each their own.

I've got a set of all Cromoly steel Timbersled arms, brand new with FLOAT-R shocks for a low price for sale.... With the Timbersled SRA's (STOCK REPLACEMENT ARMs)... as long as you have the 13/14/15 shocks... you can replace them in a pinch with stockers and still have the same ride height.... or buy just lower spares to have on hand.





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my arms on my 15 have held up pretty well compared to my friends 14... he went through 2 lowers this year, but another guy we know went through a couple on his standard this year too. (mines the pro)
 
I put 1800 miles on the bonded a arms on my 13 without issue, and I tend to be hard on things... This year I have a standard model with the old style a-arms, bent 2 lowers in less than 300 miles, neither were bad impacts either.
 
zbroz are great and all but with the ****ty dollar exchange and shipping makes it actually more expensive. and in the event of having to order an a arm from zbroz, thats couple weeks due to holdups at border customs. plus i've been buying take off a arms for cheap, got 2 front end sets, thats a arms, shocks, skis and spindles for 650 each. buying the take offs has paid for themselves as i sold a set of set of shocks and a pair of uppers and ended up being in the black for the 2 sets.

I mentioned in my question the pro rmk arms so it was more so how the bonded ones are working, seems that if a guy adds a rivet in case glue brakes down they hold to together and if i bust a tube it looks like i would weld a new tube and glue it in.

just trying to stick with stock, not that i don't like zbroz, I just trying to shy away from aftermarket parts that i tend to break cause its always caused alot of downtime. buy from US its a long wait, buy from a canadian dealer pay a huge markup and wait longer as alot of places up here dont carry aftermarket parts in stock.
 
I put 1800 miles on the bonded a arms on my 13 without issue, and I tend to be hard on things... This year I have a standard model with the old style a-arms, bent 2 lowers in less than 300 miles, neither were bad impacts either.

thanks the only issue i've heard is the glue which isnt a deal breaker. my arms arent bending from hitting things the lower arms are sagging out so much to the point its bent shock shaft from side loading lower eyelet.
 
thanks the only issue i've heard is the glue which isnt a deal breaker. my arms arent bending from hitting things the lower arms are sagging out so much to the point its bent shock shaft from side loading lower eyelet.

Bonded arms on my 2015 seem much tougher than the 2011-2012 arms...glue has been a non-issue. I'm sure any set up will go to hell if you hit something, as you know.

Those bonded arms are mucho $$$ up here tho.....I bet you can get aftermarket + spares for similar $$ to 1 set of stock bonded arms. Juuuust saaayin
 
Well hopefully some bonded arms show up in the buy and sell thanks for the input if I don't find any seems like I'll be going zbroz.
 
If you go to '13 later style lower arms than you will need the shorter 16.6" shocks, the smaller lower bolt and shock bushings. '11-'12's used the longer shocks and will not work with the bonded a-arms.

If you are bending that many stock a-arms then my recommendation would be to ditch the carbides for steel wear bars instead.
 
I dont run carbides, like my original post says my a arms are BOWING and/or Sagging out. seems to be from sno xing the trail ride in and from the aggressive sidehilling as its always worse on my dominant side. havent had issues with the skis or a arms hitting rocks or stumps.

thanks for the heads up on the shorter shocks
 
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