Best M Series a-arms
- Thread starter cat rider
- Start date
I would say stock.
If you get anything stronger, which most/all aftermarkets are. You will be more prone to do damage to the bulkhead when you hit something.
If you get anything stronger, which most/all aftermarkets are. You will be more prone to do damage to the bulkhead when you hit something.
B
Burn Down
Well-known member
I have run stock, z-broz, & currently timbersled. I liked the z-broz the best so far, but haven't got to do much riding with the timbersled set up. Haven't heard of people bending the bulkheads on the m-sleds to much. The z-broz arms are stout, don't think they saved any weight maybe a 1/2 pound. Front end seems to roll pretty bad with the timbersled front end & only saved a couple pounds over stock with floats. I need to do some more riding with this new front end to give any feedback.
B
Burn Down
Well-known member
I liked the fact that they are stout, heavy duty, like I said no real weight savings, just strong & have a unique look. I had these on my 05' snopro 800 couldn't break them on that sled & I don't jump the m like the snopro. The fit was perfect also. I have never heard of chromoly being weak in cold weather, coldest I ride is -15 f, to big of wimp to ride any colder. The new snopro is a half extruded aluminum half chromoly chassis, I don't think Cat would run it if there were cold weather durability issues.
Here's a link related to the same topic. I posted it a while back and had some really good answers you may be interested in seeing. Enjoy!
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172222&highlight=lightweight+arms
PS: I also got some interesting PMs on the subject basically stating what was said above, you don't want the A arms too strong or the bulkhead is the thing that gets destroyed when you hit something. The A arms are the strength they are to become the sacrificial lamb in an accident.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=172222&highlight=lightweight+arms
PS: I also got some interesting PMs on the subject basically stating what was said above, you don't want the A arms too strong or the bulkhead is the thing that gets destroyed when you hit something. The A arms are the strength they are to become the sacrificial lamb in an accident.
No problem, I have learned so much from others on here, it's a pleasure to be actually be able to help someone myself! 
I too plan to buy some A arms when finances allow. I should copy the PMs I got to share the findings of the guys that shared with me, minus the names.
Here's one of the best from an anamous person........................... I tried to eliminate any evidence of where this came from and I sure hope it's OK to use this.
"I'm a BIG fan of bd-x in general, but their arms are too weak, a production set bent from going over a rocky spot that we go over all the time to get to another basin.
The Z-bros ones on the other hand are TOO strong, the bulkhead will break first, and you don't want that!!!
Haven't tried the non TI alt. impact ones, bu the TI arms are SWEET! Very well built & about the right strength, they feel to be just a tad stronger than holz which I feel are just about right".
I too plan to buy some A arms when finances allow. I should copy the PMs I got to share the findings of the guys that shared with me, minus the names.
Here's one of the best from an anamous person........................... I tried to eliminate any evidence of where this came from and I sure hope it's OK to use this.
"I'm a BIG fan of bd-x in general, but their arms are too weak, a production set bent from going over a rocky spot that we go over all the time to get to another basin.
The Z-bros ones on the other hand are TOO strong, the bulkhead will break first, and you don't want that!!!
Haven't tried the non TI alt. impact ones, bu the TI arms are SWEET! Very well built & about the right strength, they feel to be just a tad stronger than holz which I feel are just about right".
Anybody have experience with fastlanes? Too strong or too weak? I have them and so far they are not too weak..
No problem, I have learned so much from others on here, it's a pleasure to be actually be able to help someone myself!
I too plan to buy some A arms when finances allow. I should copy the PMs I got to share the findings of the guys that shared with me, minus the names.
Here's one of the best from an anamous person........................... I tried to eliminate any evidence of where this came from and I sure hope it's OK to use this.
"I'm a BIG fan of bd-x in general, but their arms are too weak, a production set bent from going over a rocky spot that we go over all the time to get to another basin.
The Z-bros ones on the other hand are TOO strong, the bulkhead will break first, and you don't want that!!!
Haven't tried the non TI alt. impact ones, bu the TI arms are SWEET! Very well built & about the right strength, they feel to be just a tad stronger than holz which I feel are just about right".
Frostbite, where can a guy get a set of these good arms as it dosen't take much to bend/ twist OEM arms. I'm not jumping or abusing my sled but the arms still twist/bend. Tired of crap arms. Can you post a website so we can get a desent set of arms? Thanks
I would run the stock arms. They are a hell of a lot cheaper to replace than your bulkhead.
V
vinnie
New member
Alternative Impact titanium a-arms-put a set on my 08 M1000, best a-arms ever. Hit a tree in the snowies, hit so hard broke the airbox on the sled-snap the arm, rode it back 20 miles on the trail to get back to the trailer, hose clamped a long extension on it & rode the !@#$ out of it the rest of the weekend!! just my 2
Vinnie, that's the way I am leaning as well.
Besides strength, they look very good. here's the Chromoly. They are almost 1/2 the price of the titanium.
http://www.alternativeimpact.com/Arctic Cat Chro-moly A-Arms.htm
Here's the titanium. Very nice but titanium isn't cheap!
http://www.alternativeimpact.com/Arctic Cat Titanium A-Arms.htm
Besides strength, they look very good. here's the Chromoly. They are almost 1/2 the price of the titanium.
http://www.alternativeimpact.com/Arctic Cat Chro-moly A-Arms.htm
Here's the titanium. Very nice but titanium isn't cheap!
http://www.alternativeimpact.com/Arctic Cat Titanium A-Arms.htm
Alt. impact, holz (now made to same spec by west coast sleds) & fastlane are the ones that are the same strength as stock, they will break before your bulkhead does which is what you want.
To the guy asking about Fastlane arms, they're great & reasonable weight, the guy that welds F-lane's stuff is freaking amazing, his beads are a work of art.
If you want arms that are much stronger than stock.... good luck, if you can predict when you'll hit that rock sitting 3" under the snow on a big pow day more power to you, but A arms are meant to be a weak link to keep the other parts from breaking.
One thing I'm VERY happy with, I have holz (betweeen M & crossfire width) with the 19" crossfire floats, so this gives me a higher a arm angle & more suspension (I'm a jumper primarily, I could care less about the trail), the higher A arm angle makes it less likely that I'll catch a rock on the bottom arm, I have cleared things that would have given me a dent on previous sleds, VERY HAPPY.
To the guy asking about Fastlane arms, they're great & reasonable weight, the guy that welds F-lane's stuff is freaking amazing, his beads are a work of art.
If you want arms that are much stronger than stock.... good luck, if you can predict when you'll hit that rock sitting 3" under the snow on a big pow day more power to you, but A arms are meant to be a weak link to keep the other parts from breaking.
One thing I'm VERY happy with, I have holz (betweeen M & crossfire width) with the 19" crossfire floats, so this gives me a higher a arm angle & more suspension (I'm a jumper primarily, I could care less about the trail), the higher A arm angle makes it less likely that I'll catch a rock on the bottom arm, I have cleared things that would have given me a dent on previous sleds, VERY HAPPY.
It looks like the Fastlane A arms are half the weight of the atock A arms.
Lighten up your front end with these Chrome-Moly A-Arms. Made from 4130 Chrome-Moly, these tig welded arms are stronger than stock, yet are half the weight. Direct replacement for the Arctic Cat "M" Series. Kit includes 2 upper and 2 lower arms, all bushings and replacement hardware. Sold in natural form (unpainted), allowing you to custom paint them to your specifications.
Chrome-Moly A-Arms $429.95
http://www.flaneinc.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=37_22&products_id=41
I like them, I just don't know if I like the looks of the big X that goes across each A arm.
Lighten up your front end with these Chrome-Moly A-Arms. Made from 4130 Chrome-Moly, these tig welded arms are stronger than stock, yet are half the weight. Direct replacement for the Arctic Cat "M" Series. Kit includes 2 upper and 2 lower arms, all bushings and replacement hardware. Sold in natural form (unpainted), allowing you to custom paint them to your specifications.
Chrome-Moly A-Arms $429.95
http://www.flaneinc.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=37_22&products_id=41
I like them, I just don't know if I like the looks of the big X that goes across each A arm.
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