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Best Fox Float Pressures after Revalving and/or Fett Brother's or Nextech Canisters?

Frostbite

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Guys, I know many of you with Fox Floats have either had your shocks revlaved or have the Fett Brother's or Racetech canisters or both.

What have you found to be the best front and rear shock pressures after having one or both of these mods performed?

What is your weight (withour gear)? What type of riding are you doing?

I'm using 55 in the fronts and 100 in the rear. I'm thinking 100 is too low for the rear. What are you guys seeing?
 
i am a buck 75 w/o gear
holz revalve + fett can's
52#, 55# up front
105# rear.
i could run it even softer, but need a little extra at times.
 
Mike, that's almost exactly what I am doing.

I really do have 52-53 in the right front, 55 in the left front.

I have 100-105 in the rear and I'm 170 lbs too.

I do feel the rear skid collapse sometimes when I get on the sled and I'm wondering if I am keeping some track from digging deeper in the snow by using a lower pressure in the rear shock.

I also wonder if having the front pressures so low is making the front shocks collapse at the same time my sno pro springs are collapsing and I end up with the sled on its side?

I bet we are going to be an anomaly once this post progresses.
 
Mike, that's almost exactly what I am doing.

I really do have 52-53 in the right front, 55 in the left front.

I have 100-105 in the rear and I'm 170 lbs too.

I do feel the rear skid collapse sometimes when I get on the sled and I'm wondering if I am keeping some track from digging deeper in the snow by using a lower pressure in the rear shock.

I also wonder if having the front pressures so low is making the front shocks collapse at the same time my sno pro springs are collapsing and I end up with the sled on its side?

I bet we are going to be an anomaly once this post progresses.

take zip ties/ wire ties, around the shaft of each float shock and ride it.
you will be surprised how much travel you are not using even at the lower pressure.just look where the tie is after your ride, it will show the max travel you used during the ride.....mm
 
Mountain Mike, after the revalving there should be a lot more travel, right?

I can feel my front shocks more or less collaping when I plant the ski for a turn (or maybe it's my sno pro spring compressing , or both?

I will try your idea as long as it doesn't hurt the surface of the shock the seal depends upon to hold air.
 
alot of us use the zip tie trick. it doesnt hurt the shock body at all. just install a zip tie so it is snug on the shock body. go for a ride, and every once in a while check where the zip tie is. if it is middle of the body or so, you know you arent using all the travel and your pressure is too high. if it is at the bottom all the time, you know you dont have enough air pressure so, raise it alittle till you are using most of the travel.

it is harder with the floats becuase, we are all programed with a coil over or torsion set up that we should be able to bottom out once in awhile (not all the time) only on the harshest of bumps. we dont know when we bottom the floats because they resist bottoming and feel harsh the further in the travel they go.

that is one big draw back to an air sprung shock, the pressures compound and the bottom of the travel is super harsh, almost the feeling of bottoming on a coilover/torsion set up. you think your bottoming so you add air (because we are trained we are bottoming), and then the ride gets harsher and you feel like you are bottoming more. then, you feel like the shock isnt working. and really it isnt because, of the high air pressures we push the shock to. the reverse of what we should be doing.

the other major drawback to a float shock is stiction. the tubes are like a fork on a motorcycle, the seals are tight to keep out ice and debris, and actually cause them to stick when compressing but, we notice it more on rebound. it is almost like you cant have the rebound fast enough on a float. but we asked for lighter, thats what we got.

ski
 
Well put Ski.

I have Fett Brother's canisters showing up this week for all three shocks so I was just wondering if guys are bumping up their air pressures with the canisters?

I understand the added air volume allows you to run higher pressures without harshness?

I have the Fett Brothers (original) #1 canisters coming. They add 4% more air volume.

The added air volume is supposed to give the shocks a more linear action smoother shock action in slow stutter bumps yet still stiffen up in big hits.

The #1's are for smoothing out the ride at slower speeds and still ramp up quickly for aggressive riders who need big bump absorbtion.

So, should I go to 110 on my rear shock and 60 on the fronts or just leave the pressures alone?
 
let the zip ties show you the way luke. use the force, let go with your feelings, and reach out.

great tuner you will become mmmmmmmmmmmm hmmmmmmmmmmm.

LOL


ski
 
Fox Float Pressures

I have a 2008 M8 SnoPro 153 that I have had the Float 2 conversion done to the fronts and a Burandt Backcounty kit in the rear. I weigh 230lbs. I run 65psi in the fronts and 145psi in the rear. It works great both on and off the trail!:face-icon-small-hap
 
Im 265 and run 75 up front and 150 on the rear. thanks for the zip tie idea, im going to try that.
 
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