Best Concrete Setup for Snowmobile Parking and Storage Areas?

[AlbertAdams]

Hi everyone,

I’m working on a concrete parking and storage area for snowmobiles, and I want to make sure it holds up well in extreme winter conditions.

Since snowmobiles bring in snow, ice, and moisture, I need a surface that can handle freeze-thaw cycles, prevent excessive ice buildup, and remain durable over time.

Has anyone built a concrete pad or garage floor specifically for snowmobile use? What’s the best concrete mix and finish to prevent slipping and resist moisture damage? Also, is there anything special I should do to reinforce the slab to handle temperature shifts and heavy loads?

Looking forward to hearing your recommendations!

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Hi everyone,

I’m working on a concrete parking and storage area for snowmobiles, and I want to make sure it holds up well in extreme winter conditions.

Since snowmobiles bring in snow, ice, and moisture, I need a surface that can handle freeze-thaw cycles, prevent excessive ice buildup, and remain durable over time.

Has anyone built a concrete pad or garage floor specifically for snowmobile use? What’s the best concrete mix and finish to prevent slipping and resist moisture damage? Also, is there anything special I should do to reinforce the slab to handle temperature shifts and heavy loads?

Looking forward to hearing your recommendations!

2% air entrained for exterior concrete.
6 or 6.5 sack mix.

4" thick.
Wire mesh embed.
Slope to drain into an area you don't mind having a pond / skating rink.

Tooled or saw cut control joints every 6-8'

Spread a surface hardener after doing a light broom finish.

If you have the bucks put heat tubing through the slab and run a glycol / boiler.

 

[volcano buster]

Will that mix stand up to new carbides?
I was thinking water draining tiles over the surface might make it last longer from abrasion but might not be in the plan.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

Will that mix stand up to new carbides?
I was thinking water draining tiles over the surface might make it last longer from abrasion but might not be in the plan.

The surface hardener is the ticket.

It will still mark the surface but won't gouge it.

 

[AlbertAdams]

2% air entrained for exterior concrete.
6 or 6.5 sack mix.

4" thick.

Wire mesh embed.

Slope to drain into an area you don't mind having a pond / skating rink.

Tooled or saw cut control joints every 6-8'

Spread a surface hardener after doing a light broom finish.

If you have the bucks put heat tubing through the slab and run a glycol / boiler.

Thanks for the detailed response! The air entrainment, wire mesh, and control joints all make sense. I like the idea of adding a surface hardener for durability. Heated tubing would be great if budget allows—definitely something to consider!

 

[gun-driver]

Is this parking area indoors or out?

If inside as mentioned radiant floor heat would be the best addition.
Even if the budget cant do it now, the tubing and reflective barrier is not that expensive put it in now and later when able you can hook it up.
Best thing I put in my garage by far. Snow melt from the truck evaporates before it even gets to the drain

 

[AlbertAdams]

Is this parking area indoors or out?

If inside as mentioned radiant floor heat would be the best addition.
Even if the budget cant do it now, the tubing and reflective barrier is not that expensive put it in now and later when able you can hook it up.
Best thing I put in my garage by far. Snow melt from the truck evaporates before it even gets to the drain

Thanks for the suggestion! The parking area is actually outdoors, but I hadn’t considered adding radiant floor heating, even just the tubing and reflective barrier for future use. That sounds like a smart investment for long-term snow melt, especially in colder months. I’ll definitely keep that in mind as I move forward with the project.

 

[turboless terry]

2% air entrained for exterior concrete.
6 or 6.5 sack mix.

4" thick.
Wire mesh embed.
Slope to drain into an area you don't mind having a pond / skating rink.

Tooled or saw cut control joints every 6-8'

Spread a surface hardener after doing a light broom finish.

If you have the bucks put heat tubing through the slab and run a glycol / boiler.

I'm not a fan of wire mesh. If you tear an old slab out wwm is always on the bottom and mostly rotted out. I use #3 bar 2 foot oc.
The other thing I'm not a fan of is cutting everything up like Swiss cheese. Sidewalks are different but I try to keep slabs in the 10x10 scenario. Other factors involved if that doesn't cut it.
Carbides are just hard on stuff. I get rid of them and still use ski slips in trailer.

 

[gun-driver]

If you’re finding the mesh on the bottom, it was done wrong.

 

[turboless terry]

If you’re finding the mesh on the bottom, it was done wrong.

You can have it.

 

[Sheetmetalfab]

You can have it.

My only reason for recommending the mesh is I've seen way too many slabs with nothing.

It's better than 1" steps in the slab at the cracks.

The frost we get around here requires control joints closer together than in the lower 48.

Sometimes it freezes 10' down so it can hit some less than NFS soils.

Proper concrete has 2 features it WILL include.

It will get hard.
It will crack.