"Best all around Bike?" 2013 Build Project

[mtn-doo]

You wire in a simple 4 wire + signal wire relay. They are available at NAPA. The hot comes from the battery, through the relay, then to the grips. The relay is simply "in line". All power to the grips is being pulled from the battery while the bike is running and the battery is constantly being fed by the coil. No "net loss". The relay will not close, "connect" and send power without power being applied to the signal wire. An independent hot source. A relay needs power to "close" the circuit. That power is not coming from the batteries or the relay would always stay closed. You want a signal source that has available power ONLY when the bike is running. That way the relay "opens" when the motor dies, and closes when the motor is running. That signal source can be ANY source that is "hot only" when the bike is running. A relay needs a separate power source to open and close. No signal power OPENS the relay. Power or "hot" signal wire closes the relay. The amount of power needed for this signal is minute. No battery or grip amperage ever see's or uses the signal side of the relay. The fuel pump hot is a good source. It is only alive when the bike is started. Once the bike is running, the amperage flows through the relay to the grips. The Hi, Low, and off features all work normal. You can have the bike running and turn "off" and "on" your grip heaters etc. The important thing is when your heaters are "on" and you shut your bike off, the engine stops, the "signal power" goes away, that opens the relay and power stops flowing to the grips. Regardless of switch position.

I asked the crew at Penco Power Products in Kalispell, Mt. if they would be interested in making a pkg for this with instructions for retail sale? I don't sell from my shop. I will keep you posted.... In the meantime, get some water tight connectors, wire, and a 4 wire relay, and you're good to go!

 

[snowbikekits.com]

This is a great thread and I really enjoyed reading through it. Nice detailed instructions and photos - thank you! It will be my go to reference for my SX build.

 

[summitboy]

So. Not NOS, not a turbo. I bet its a new carb. Something we haven't seen yet. Maybe Corey is giving you the new top secret APT 4 stroke carb !

If that isnt it then must be some ignition. Can't be much else.

Time to spill it ! LOL

 

[relentless rider]

He is running an aftermarket exhaust, way more air flow with the intake, cold weather, high elevation, and no fuel controller from what ive seen, so thats got to be it! Apt 4 stroke carb.
If its not that than the only other thing would be a flux capacitor to take him back in time to the monster

 

[mtn-doo]

You guys crack me up!!! lol too funny. I am going to feed it ton's of air to keep things on the lean side. Hope to not need any kind of fuel controller... The stock SXF's I was around last year worked very well without a controller. With the Pro Circuit T5 and Boondocker intake, it will be leaner than stock. I will do some testing and will see. I am optimistic. If the stockers worked so well last year, this should be real good without a controller.

Ya, I do miss the Monster... I used to go to the shop at random times during the day and night just to start it up. Or sit on it! Ha!

I think I'll mount one of these on the back fender!!!!

 

[mtn-doo]

So. Not NOS, not a turbo. I bet its a new carb. Something we haven't seen yet. Maybe Corey is giving you the new top secret APT 4 stroke carb !

If that isnt it then must be some ignition. Can't be much else.

Time to spill it ! LOL

He's getting very close! Testing

 

[relentless rider]

I'm pretty high from 2 stroke smoke as we speak haha , I made a lift and was riding it in place ..the shop is rolling smoke out still,

 

[mtn-doo]

Im I'm pretty high from 2 stroke smoke as we speak haha , I made a lift and was riding it in place ..the shop is rolling somke out still,

I know the feeling!!!! Ha

 

[mtn-doo]

Hey guys, I am playing with the proper fit of the Frozen Boost intake and Boondocker filter. There are a couple things I need to share.
#1 - The small end of your silicone reducing coupling is 2" to the throttle body. You will need a 2" X 3" reducing coupling from Frozen Boost.com. There is an IMPORTANT point with the length. The small diameter from your throttle body needs to be approx 2 7/8 to 3" before it expands to 3" diameter. This length will have a big effect on the performance of your motor. If you have it too short, you loose velocity and bottom to mid range run poorly. If it is longer, bottom and mid are responsive and "torquey" but the top end goes away. Approx 3" seems ideal. You can copy the stock boot small dia. length by measuring inside the stock boot. Try to copy closely that length. If I need to trim the overall length, I will trim some from the large end. Mototessnari has played with this with their V-force 4 intake system for 450F race bikes. The velocity stack, "small dia" length is critical. They have interchangeable inserts for different characteristics. Pretty cool.
#2 - The 45 degree reducing coupling that fits excellent on other bikes does not fit the SXF. The other throttle bodies feed the engine at an off-set. The SXF is nearly straight out the back. Also, the unique air box shape compounds the problem. I have ordered other intake couplings and will have a finished system this week. Photo's and measurements.

 

[mtn-doo]

Hey guys,
Here's the scoop. The throttle body is about straight off the back of the engine. The strut rod is slightly to the right of it. About only 1". Remember the most important objective, to NOT adversely affect the engines performance, but rather improve it in any way we can. The reason I'm saying that, and always reminding myself of that is as follows.

I can get a decent fit with a pod, but... the smaller end, attaching to the throttle body needs to be about 5 and 1/2 " long with a 30 degree kick. The end of the Boondocker pod slides in just in front of the battery. The problem is the small end of the venturi being anything over 3" max kills all of your top end. I will not accept loosing that WOT, 60HP. If I shorten it to acceptable lengths, 2 1/2 to 3", there is no room for a slight kick or bend and the 3" diameter end is running right through the strut rod... I tried several different approaches to make it acceptable, meaning improving performance, not hurting it just to "make the pod fit".

Plan "B" is the option. The stock boot and venturi are optimum for performance. Then we must make the outerwears filter work like a pod. Make the memory wire cage I showed earlier in this build. The outerwears filter has actually a larger "area" than a pod. Larger area = more than enough opportunity for air to find a clean place to enter, especially if there is "no snow in the box". Next and I feel the root of the issue, is preventing the box from filling up with snow. I have tried to practically seal off the box "air tight", Ha! Not a good idea for obvious reasons. In order for it to work and stay clean and in "open air" like a pod, I removed the dottom of the box. I used a hack-saw blade and a leather glove, and remover the bottom. Starting at the front and sawing parallel back to the roost guard.

The end result is a "huge" snow filter protected on 3 sides and "open air" on the bottom. The combination of the x-tra large area of the filter and an open bottom, it will work as well and stay clean all day as a pod. I priced the box. It is only $48. I would have a "summer box" to install when you swap your kit. Easy time to do it and not an expensive alternative. Actually about 1/3 the cost of the components of a Boondocker/ Frozen Boost pod.

I will test and report back with the results. I am sure it will work very well.

 

[steve250f@hotmail.com]

Air box

Are the new air boxes 1 piece ,the old ktms were two so on my 525 an buddy's 530 excs we left the back half of the box off an run the same air system as you .no probs if the air filter builds up with snow you can reach back and give it a swipe

 

[Actualle]

So. Not NOS, not a turbo. I bet its a new carb. Something we haven't seen yet. Maybe Corey is giving you the new top secret APT 4 stroke carb !

If that isnt it then must be some ignition. Can't be much else.

Time to spill it ! LOL

Did anyone guess training wheels? are you modding out your hover 'round Randy or is this a snow bike build....LOL just joking.

Stoked to see it on the snow. Ive got a question. Has anyone Dyno'd this bike or any for that matter with the kit on? Im sure you'll get 60hp at the crank at sea level but it doesn't seem like anyone has taken into consideration the rotating mass of the track vs the tire.

 

[mtn-doo]

Are the new air boxes 1 piece ,the old ktms were two so on my 525 an buddy's 530 excs we left the back half of the box off an run the same air system as you .no probs if the air filter builds up with snow you can reach back and give it a swipe

Yes, they are a one piece.

 

[whistlerhawk]

snap

Since you've decided to keep the stock air-intake and make a free-flow wire cage with pre-filter, are you going to place a 'Snap' inside the air-intake to keep velocities high?
I ran a Snap in my air-ntake boot this summer and I felt it was better throttle response on roll-ons etc.

 

[ds2154]

Do you have pictures of your modified/cut airbox?

 

[mtn-doo]

Do you have pictures of your modified/cut airbox?

Yes, sorry about that. I will post them this evening.

 

[mtn-doo]

Here you are.

 

[the gman]

I read in the mxa's motocross test magazine the 350 sx air boot increased low end throttle responce and was close to the Dungey's Works air intake. would you think this would be a worthwhile upgrade? Also for anyone wanting to monitor engine temps. I used the ktm thermostat and the bypass tube is just the correct size to tap to a 3/8-22 thread for the temp probe that comes with the trail tec temp gauge. Worked slick. If anyone is interested i will post pics. Garry

 

[mtn-doo]

I read in the mxa's motocross test magazine the 350 sx air boot increased low end throttle responce and was close to the Dungey's Works air intake. would you think this would be a worthwhile upgrade? Also for anyone wanting to monitor engine temps. I used the ktm thermostat and the bypass tube is just the correct size to tap to a 3/8-22 thread for the temp probe that comes with the trail tec temp gauge. Worked slick. If anyone is interested i will post pics. Garry

Ya, I read that also. Gives a boost to low and mid. A slightly longer ventury will do that. Shorter provides more top end but softer in the low and mid. Would be a good intake to try. If you try it, let us know. Should be beneficial.

 

[dooman92]

Gman

I would appreciate photos of your temp setup. I am trying to figure out a system for husky 510. I am hoping to use ktm thermo. Thanks