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Benefit of Radiator Deletion

Better cooling!
The 900 cooling system had a flaw with the rad in place:
The coolant path splits at a "Y"... 1 path leading back to the heat exchanger at the back of the tunnel, and the other path through the radiator. The radiator path is much closer and shorter. The coolant will try to take the path of least resistance, which is the radiator... so most of your coolant will flow through your rad, which is usually plugged with snow or ice.

Remove the radiator path, and now 100% of the coolant will flow through the heat exchanger where it should, and you should see a significant drop in coolant temperature. In my case... 10 - 15 deg.

Hope this makes sense!
 
Yep... The rad "grille" will plug with snow and ice...Then the radiator becomes a heater...
Softening the nose plastic and making it weaker when you lift or hit something.

It does not work well on the RMK's and, IMO, not really well on the flatlanders too.

Look at the RUSH 'radiator'... that one is positioned to do some work
 
Gunslinger,

The warranty issue is completely up to your dealer that will do your service. They are the ones that will make a stink or not if the rad is removed. If the service manager there says that they will not honor your warranty. If you are nervous about it, keep the stock parts and put them back in if you have an engine problem.

The "cons" would be on icy trails without scratchers or dry trails all together (which would ruin the hyfax before the engine had problems).

Have a look at the diagram and decide for yourself... notice that the coolant does not flow thru the radiator and then the rear cooler assembly. It flows thru both and will take the path of least resistance.

Two reasons to remove the radiator on 900's (and 755's)

1) The sled will run cooler without it if you have scratchers.
Scratchers are mandatory on these sleds, IMO

2) The radiator weakens the front end plastic.


#1...
If you remove the radiator, do not just put a union between the hoses... that will actually cause the temps to rise... Remove the "T" (can be a beotch if you have big hands) and put the union in there. This removes the dead-loop which robs the rear cooler, running board coolers and front heat exchanger of much needed flow.... plus that hose and the fluid in it weigh probably 3+ lbs.
900rmkcoolingsysassy-1.jpg


#2

If you think about it, the "radiator" depends on airflow THROUGH it that means that the nose-grille and the area behind the the radiator must be free of snow... When you use the SNOWmobile in the SNOW... the grille and the area behind the rad pack with snow...That turns the "radiator" into a "heater" inside the nose of the sled...adding heat to the under hood area . Remember this is a free-air design, no fan or ducting force air thru this snow-packed grille. At that point the radiator is more like a heater in the "box" formed by the nose pan and "shelf" above it.

PLUS

This "heated box" in the nose makes the plastic soft (really soft) so that when you yank on the already weak design of the RMK nose assy by the bumper, things tear off!

The radiator design was, IMO, one of the bigger blunders on Polaris' part, taking into account the plastic construction and lack of airflow in real world use, ... that they remedied in 2007 and 2008.

Think of the 2008 800 Dragon 163" RMK.... This is probably the lightest, Highest HP stock sled that Polaris has made with one of the highest loads (163" track)... That power and load make a lot of heat... not only does the dragon 163 run in an acceptable temp range in most conditions, it does so without a radiator or running board edge cooler (which your 600 and 700/900's have) AND on the 163's it does it, STOCK, without a front tunnel/bulkhead cooler.

Power to the people.

nosepan.jpg


See any snow on this TRAIL machine grille (much less a mountain machine).
2007Polaris.jpg

2007polarisimage.jpg

How 'bout behind the radiator??
Myrmkprofile2.jpg
 
Very easy if you follow the diagram MH provided above! A few screws a couple of clamps and it is out. You can block some of the hoses above and below the tee off with needle nose type vise grips or rad hose pliers and keep mess to a " mininum".
You may find instructions on SLP's site under the airbox install also.
 
i did this to my fusion, didnt really see a drop in temperature but i lost 20 lbs of ice build up infront of the rad LOL. did u know these rads are worth 350$ NEW! crazy.
 
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