belt eating 1200 rg turbo
- Thread starter bcguy
- Start date
put 1 shim behind the secondary
maybe gear down a little if it hasn't been already? I went through two belts in about 200 miles a few weeks ago on 09tm1 with clutches aligned and deflection right, but I was losing cords on both sides equally. I think I'm going to go down to 57/63 for next ride. I was also running the 046 belt, which I was later told by Shain to run the 060 instead so that might be it too? After a few hard pulls up some long climbs my clutches where insanely hot! Gearing it down should take a lot of load off of the clutches. What belt you runnin'? Any body running the daco xtx?
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bcguy
Member
It is geared down cant remember the exact ratio but it is somewhere between m8 and m 1000 as per Shains instructions. Springs should not be soft yet as there is not a lot of miles on this setup. Very interested in trying thedaco belt. Always let the belts cool after a couple pokes and just seems they don't hold up. Put a brand new primary on 2days ago and emeryed the surfaces on both
Linderman mount, you need lots of extra mounts.
To the best of my knowledge the factory alignment tool is no good on turbos, you need the secondary in farther, according to twisted.
If you have 1000 or more miles on the secondary I would be rebuilding it, I have seen factory secondaries that needed rebuilt from day one.
If you have 300miles on the primary spring I would replace it.
To the best of my knowledge the factory alignment tool is no good on turbos, you need the secondary in farther, according to twisted.
If you have 1000 or more miles on the secondary I would be rebuilding it, I have seen factory secondaries that needed rebuilt from day one.
If you have 300miles on the primary spring I would replace it.
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akholland
Member
I agree with wyoboy, you need to get that secondary in further. I had mine milled .030 at a machine shop because cat screwed up at the factory and sold me a sled with "no" WASHERs behind the secondary which tells me it was out of alignment when I bought it. anyways also buy yourself a laser thermometer and check your belt and clutch temperatures at the top of the hill each time you make an adjustment. Try the secondary with different shims behind it or no shims at all and see what the temp does. you want the lowest temp possible.
Your also NEED vented side pannels if you dont have them already. A mesh hood and tons of hood venting helps too. get a hole saw and make swiss cheese out of your belt cover.
The best belt i have found for the m1000 is the Ultimax XS819. They sent it to me as a prototype to try before it came out and I havent blown one yet. They have a thicker profile which means more surface area on the sheaves meaning less friction meaning less heat and longer belt life. They are also a bit wider which means you will need to readjust your deflection to the 1.25 to 1.5 inches. Plus it comes with a warranty and cat dont. When I was blowing them I kept them in a rotating cycle.
Next biggest thing you can do is INSTALL A DD shift assist. That alone made A HUGE difference. the stock m1000 secondary will not backshift fast enough which makes you hit the gas in a high gear smoking a belt.
check your rollers in the secondary for any play. They should be tight. Go through your clutches and lube them up "lightly" with some kind of light oil. dont get any one the sheaves obviously. keep them clean.
When I was blowing belts they were getting as hot as 220 degrees or higher. ouch!.. After I got everything figured I never got over 200. Cat just plain sucks in the clutching setup department and you gotta fix it.
also lower m8 gears help. and as someone else said extra motor mounts keep everything in alignment better when your adding all that torque.
good luck
Your also NEED vented side pannels if you dont have them already. A mesh hood and tons of hood venting helps too. get a hole saw and make swiss cheese out of your belt cover.
The best belt i have found for the m1000 is the Ultimax XS819. They sent it to me as a prototype to try before it came out and I havent blown one yet. They have a thicker profile which means more surface area on the sheaves meaning less friction meaning less heat and longer belt life. They are also a bit wider which means you will need to readjust your deflection to the 1.25 to 1.5 inches. Plus it comes with a warranty and cat dont. When I was blowing them I kept them in a rotating cycle.
Next biggest thing you can do is INSTALL A DD shift assist. That alone made A HUGE difference. the stock m1000 secondary will not backshift fast enough which makes you hit the gas in a high gear smoking a belt.
check your rollers in the secondary for any play. They should be tight. Go through your clutches and lube them up "lightly" with some kind of light oil. dont get any one the sheaves obviously. keep them clean.
When I was blowing belts they were getting as hot as 220 degrees or higher. ouch!.. After I got everything figured I never got over 200. Cat just plain sucks in the clutching setup department and you gotta fix it.
also lower m8 gears help. and as someone else said extra motor mounts keep everything in alignment better when your adding all that torque.
good luck
Dayco belt is what I am running, all year and part of last on current one. Just checked it this morning and still looks good and not needing adjustment after 4 rides. These belts need good break in though. Put it on, hit the hill and it won't make the day.
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bcguy
Member
ok here goes,have the linderman extra mount,didnt know the factory alingnment bar did not work,dont know if this will work but cut a piece of aluminum to go beetween the engine mount plate on the clutch side and the diamond drive light caseing(already has a 3/16 there,goes against the hard plastic wedge,not the origonal soft rubber)so basicly angled the clutch side of the motor away from the secondary by about a 1/8 if an inch,hoping under hard accelreration it pulls straight,I also tightend up the torque stop on the front recoil side of motor
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bcguy
Member
also no cracks on bulkhead,lots of venting everywhere,apon inspection of clutches no black marking at all on secondary, and motor side sheave on primary is clean ,outer sheave on primary has rubber tracking high on the sheave,the last inch,that tells me the motor is torque twisting so i am hoping my fix will help it
I'm having good luck with a $60.00 Gates extreme 100% Kevlar. It's holding up way better than o46 a/c belt on a big bore turbo m7. A friend told me to try it 2 years ago and 12 belts later, I wish I would have listened then! 
That seems like a little to much angle to start with, maybe if you didn't have the extra mounts but with them I think you want to start with very little angle for pull back.
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SnowDevil
Well-known member
2nd that,, supreme tools with a straight 42 helix, used the 048 belt from arctic cat left the 60/60 gears and i could get about 300 miles out of a belt depending how hard I was on it... pulled really hard, also had to keep moving my secondary in... if the outer thread is pulling remove washers dont add... also added a bump stop on the right side of the motor, that helped also, cost about 20 bucks..
get a stiff spring in the secondary but your alignment has to be all the way in, the alignment bar is wrong for a turbo its only a starting point then you move the secondary in from there.
