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Belt Drive?

Mn_Mtn_Cat

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Looking to put a belt drive on my 2020 Hardcore 165, is the standard 2.63 gear ratio the one to go with.
The sled is stock except for a can. When putting on the belt drive, what happens to the oil level indicator?

Anybody have some good pricing on the belt drive as well?
Thanks,
 
We usually recommned 2.52:1 ratio. The higher the altitude the less the power. Track length, lug, typical snow you ride and type of riding would dictate final choice.
 
The reasons customers have insisted on the TKI over the C3 has been the belt tensioner design and the belt quality. I am not sure what C3 offers for their latest model, but just repeating customer comments. Look closely at these. I think any belt drive is better than the heavy chain drive.
 
I have a belt drive on my 19. Can't tell a difference. The top pulley fell off but found all the parts in the belly pan. Now it falls off all the time even with red locktite opposed to the blue. Probably going to have to drill the threads out of the jackshaft and replace that thing and the pulley
No difference is felt but if a rock is smacked I won't loose all the oil
Bought a different brand for this next sled
 
I have a belt drive on my 19. Can't tell a difference. The top pulley fell off but found all the parts in the belly pan. Now it falls off all the time even with red locktite opposed to the blue. Probably going to have to drill the threads out of the jackshaft and replace that thing and the pulley
No difference is felt but if a rock is smacked I won't loose all the oil
Bought a different brand for this next sled
Some guys notice a huge difference some guys don't. It is more about the rider being tuned in to his/her sled or not. It makes sense that heavy chain and gears is slower to get spinning and harder to stop spinning when hitting the brake. The top gear shouldn't fall off whether it is chain or belt drive only if it falls off when it is chain I bet the damage would be way worse.
 
I got one initially cause I was down in rpm just a little but I didn't wanna drop my weights. I was hopeing to free up the drive but there was no change. I still had to drop a gram.
Maby I could change a gear but I like track speed. I think I have a 25 tooth on a 162 3" but would like more of both ends
 
I got one initially cause I was down in rpm just a little but I didn't wanna drop my weights. I was hopeing to free up the drive but there was no change. I still had to drop a gram.
Maby I could change a gear but I like track speed. I think I have a 25 tooth on a 162 3" but would like more of both ends

Once steel gears and chain are spinning they actually have a flywheel effect and can help maintain momentum of the sled. It is the increase or decrease in driveline speed that the lighter belt drive can show benefits. (faster to react) Clutch it to run rpm where you see max. HP. If your clutching is spot on the clutches will shift to give you maximum speed regardless of gearing, (to a point) only one set-up may get there faster. Going lighter on your weights can hurt accelleration so maybe just a primary spring with heavier finish or a helix that has a flatter finish.
 
TKI probably has the best customer service of any of the belt drive companies out. All 3 belt drive manufacturers make great products. Last time I talked to Tom at TKI he recommended the stock 2.6 ration to high altitude ascender sleds.
If you wanna see what's involved in installing a TKI kit, here's a link...

 
Yes That's a good comparison. The fan bottom pully from MVM does work to melt the snow from the foot well area.
Generally, we ride minimum 9,000and up the 2.63 is to low we gear to 2:45 and it's much better- IMHO....I have ran both chain and belt drive- and yes it's a piece of mind,
your not going any higher on the mountain with a belt vs: chain...

We take the time to just put in a manual chain tensioner in the Alpha and have a better piece of mind, and money left, to spend on having things that make better bang for the buck.
It's all in what guy wants/needs personalizing his ride.
 
thanks for the vid, had not seen that. was wanting a tki someday actually because the bottom gear looked more covered, less likely to get ice chunks in it, wasnt too sure about an exposed spinning gear down my my footwell where snow packs. But I like the design of the MVM top gear, didnt realize the difference. Heard that TKI will also swap top gears with you for free if you want to try other ratios. not sure if others do that. For my riding, id stick to stock ratio most likely anyways. trees get too tight, lots of reversing and crawling around and need quick rev up in harder coastal snow here. I had my chaincase apart for the first time ever after 2500 miles and saw no need to change anything from stock yet, but soon as something wears out or gives, ill do the belt drive!
food for thought: One is lighter rotating weight but the other has less spinning resistance from the fan affect.
 
I have a belt drive on my 19. Can't tell a difference. The top pulley fell off but found all the parts in the belly pan. Now it falls off all the time even with red locktite opposed to the blue. Probably going to have to drill the threads out of the jackshaft and replace that thing and the pulley
No difference is felt but if a rock is smacked I won't loose all the oil
Bought a different brand for this next sled
What flavor belt drive are you running?
 
I used to run a 2.52 ratio with a 162 2.6 PC track. Now back to stock ratio with the 3" track. 300lb rider, big bore, and 9000-9500' riding elevation. It would pull the 2.52, but the clutching was more consistent and responsive when making quick changes in direction with stock ratio. I was able to test back to back on the mountain in about 5 min swapping the top pulley with the TKI kit and oil delete on the old Zuke. The bottom gear hub is a little heavier, but unless something has changed I think the TKI kit engages the most spline area on the driveshaft.

For those that haven't seen it the new aluminum oil tank really cleans up the TKI kit compared to the plastic one. It's way easier to remove when making gearing, belt, or track changes. Bolts to the top of the chain case with one bolt and footwell with 2 more. I haven't done it yet, but I'd bet you can do belt adjustments without removing it too. Also maintains the oil level sensor. Pump bolts in the bottom and return line in the top. No plastic to worry about melting with tight exhaust or turbos. https://tkicnc.com/product/arctic-cat-replacement-oil-tank/
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