Belt Blower - Opinions needed ASAP!!!

[WyoBoy1000]

What I was told One of the things some where doing last year was running 75g(a lot less than I expected) weight and a stock AC helix that is adjustable old m7 style from what I understood. this is with a slp pipe set and stock springs(4500-8000 feet).

I ran a y-pipe and can with a fuel reg and my sled ran great on stock clutching except shift assist, put the full slp on with bd box and around 7000 feet it ripped but wont hardly run over 80mph on trail (my 07 would climb over 90mph right away and pull over 50mph track speed) and only pulling 40 mph track speed, then when I climb up to 8-9000 feet I have a horrific mid bog and the rpm spikes to 7500 and then drops to 6950 and wont pull the r's back up, messed with deflection but no luck. last year I ran stock clutch with slp pipe and never had a problem, until I changed it.

Stock I got 350 miles on 060 and started to pull cords on both sides after some hard riding(I abused the belt and knew it) Put the 046 on felt rough didn't pull any better and blew it to pieces at about 200 miles and the clutches where to hot to touch with gloves, actually melted a glove a little. 150miles of it was with y-pipe and can. When I put the full slp on I also installed new 060.

 

[mrquick68]

How stiff is your driven spring? What helix are you running? Thinking maybe instead of less weight maybe more angle in the helix with less spring. Because if you get too light with your weights you might be back to slipping the clutch, which would start the too much heat in the belt thing. Sounds like the driven isn't shifting fast enough yet.. This whole stiff clutch spring thing has never been the answer IMO cause like I said earlier in this post once I geared down, I was able to run the stock mountain springs and had no more belt issues, Was able to change the belt without any tools. Of course this was with the pre M series clutch which as far as I'm concerned a better clutch and way easier to tune and, change belts on...

its all in my sig... I may agree with your thoughts on the clutching... but dragging racing this sled across the lake shows its damn fast, just low on rpms...

 

[mrquick68]

What I was told One of the things some where doing last year was running 75g(a lot less than I expected) weight and a stock AC helix that is adjustable old m7 style from what I understood. this is with a slp pipe set and stock springs(4500-8000 feet).

I ran a y-pipe and can with a fuel reg and my sled ran great on stock clutching except shift assist, put the full slp on with bd box and around 7000 feet it ripped but wont hardly run over 80mph on trail (my 07 would climb over 90mph right away and pull over 50mph track speed) and only pulling 40 mph track speed, then when I climb up to 8-9000 feet I have a horrific mid bog and the rpm spikes to 7500 and then drops to 6950 and wont pull the r's back up, messed with deflection but no luck. last year I ran stock clutch with slp pipe and never had a problem, until I changed it.

Stock I got 350 miles on 060 and started to pull cords on both sides after some hard riding(I abused the belt and knew it) Put the 046 on felt rough didn't pull any better and blew it to pieces at about 200 miles and the clutches where to hot to touch with gloves, actually melted a glove a little. 150miles of it was with y-pipe and can. When I put the full slp on I also installed new 060.

i don't get your point?

 

[WyoBoy1000]

Less weight = better performance and it is cheap simple and worked. Just info

I can't get any go out of my new sled with the slp looking for advise.

 

[KMMAC]

Never liked multi-angle helixes, they always seem to have a hang up point. I'm guessing that the snopro spring is stiffer? Do you have a straight 38 you can try with a little softer spring? If you do, I know that these new clutches are a pian to work on but if you already have a supply of parts try it. What angle is the stock helix. I only ask these Q"S? cause sounds like you got sand on gettin it figured out,, I'm hoping to buy one this year and this has been very helpful. Who knows, once I get in shape and all that maybe give you a call and come ride with ya.

 

[mrquick68]

Less weight = better performance and it is cheap simple and worked. Just info

I can't get any go out of my new sled with the slp looking for advise.

what year is your new sled??? I can't remember...

 

[mrquick68]

Never liked multi-angle helixes, they always seem to have a hang up point. I'm guessing that the snopro spring is stiffer? Do you have a straight 38 you can try with a little softer spring? If you do, I know that these new clutches are a pian to work on but if you already have a supply of parts try it. What angle is the stock helix. I only ask these Q"S? cause sounds like you got sand on gettin it figured out,, I'm hoping to buy one this year and this has been very helpful. Who knows, once I get in shape and all that maybe give you a call and come ride with ya.

Funny - i like multi angle helix's, and the one i have is progressive so not as likley to hang up, though i know what you mean. Is so close to stock though i can't see it making that big of difference as far as angles go. Stock is a straight 36...

in my parts bin i have two straight 36s; the new enclosed type and the m7 adjustable piece and even a shift assist. If i kept on having problems blowing belts, i would have switched back, but so far i like the RKT kit. i may try a soft spring in it here soon too, but for now i'm going to dial this one in. if i get bored i'll try some changes.

This weekend i'm looking to fine tune the clutching. I heel ground the 80g light tips down to 78.7g each and then added the AC orange/white primary spring. I don't like the higher engagement i have, but the mid shift and climbing shift weight is what i'm looking to test. I have primary spring shims too so i can test up and down to see what i think. to start i've got two thin shims in. If too strong a spring, i'll pull the shims out. if i need more spring or rpms, i'll add. In my gut i feel an SLP 120/320 spring coming on, but well see.

 

[geo]

Stay out of your top end 'cause that spring shim set-up will bind.

 

[mrquick68]

Stay out of your top end 'cause that spring shim set-up will bind.

hmmm - i thought they were supposed to help stop the bind (Thunder bay products) as they are teflon coated... do tell?

 

[winter brew]

Geo is referring to the bind from being overcompressed at full shift with shims.....not the "twisting bind" that teflon shims may help with.

 

[mrquick68]

The shims are so small I don't think they would cause bind.

 

[serge]

try puting in another front mount on the left side of the motor, it is a bugger to put in results have been good so far

 

[black swan]

belts exploding!

checked the alignment today w/ mechanic. It was near perfect according to the cat tool. There was one .060 shim behind the dd from the original setup. Removing that shim and testing w/ clutch closer to DD. Engine compartment has been detailed, clutches torn down and re-essembled. Removed orig 75g for high altitude and installed the cat 80's for more pinch and still using the stock yel-grn ti spring.

testing tomorrow in fresh pow!!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

09 M1000, ran 77g weights and stiffer primary spring today and it would hit 7500rpm and drop to 7400 and hold it. still have a mid bog but not as bad. This same setup is used on another sled and it rips. but he is using a 46 belt and I am running a 60. tomorrow i'm going to try a 46 and see what happens. but so far it feels like it wants to rip but then starts binding and the more I stay in it the less responsive it is. only getting 42mph track speed. 8-9500 feet. so far this sled stock almost ran better than with the slp pipe.

 

[mrquick68]

well, less weight might have helped but stiffer primary spring wasn't good. TONS of slip at climbing speeds with the orange./wht spring and didn't feel as responsive. Dropped the yellow.wht back in and things were better. To me it feels like the secondary isn't working well. RKT kit w/ sno pro green too stiff!?

 

[MTm7]

well, less weight might have helped but stiffer primary spring wasn't good. TONS of slip at climbing speeds with the orange./wht spring and didn't feel as responsive. Dropped the yellow.wht back in and things were better. To me it feels like the secondary isn't working well. RKT kit w/ sno pro green too stiff!?

its my opinion that the green is too stiff. problem is if you go lighter then the overshifting problem rears its ugly head.

 

[black swan]

checked the alignment today w/ mechanic. It was near perfect according to the cat tool. There was one .060 shim behind the dd from the original setup. Removing that shim and testing w/ clutch closer to DD. Engine compartment has been detailed, clutches torn down and re-essembled. Removed orig 75g for high altitude and installed the cat 80's for more pinch and still using the stock yel-grn ti spring.

testing tomorrow in fresh pow!!

update:

the 80g weights pulled awesome, very consistant power band felt instantly there, not jerky. Rpms were solid pulled 7250's in 3+ feet of climbing. 2ndary was orig 2 plastic shims plus quick shift. Very happy sled now--> responsive. primary was hot, 2ndary was not-as-hot, and belt was just warm.

elev. 10-11.5k

 

[WyoBoy1000]

09 M1000, ran 77g weights and stiffer primary spring today and it would hit 7500rpm and drop to 7400 and hold it. still have a mid bog but not as bad. This same setup is used on another sled and it rips. but he is using a 46 belt and I am running a 60. tomorrow i'm going to try a 46 and see what happens. but so far it feels like it wants to rip but then starts binding and the more I stay in it the less responsive it is. only getting 42mph track speed. 8-9500 feet. so far this sled stock almost ran better than with the slp pipe.

the 46 corrected the bog and put me in the 7600rpm range. good day in cooke

 

[dmkhnr]

I can't believe I read through all of this.

I'm having the same problem with my ported/piped M8, its pulling the outer cord.

RKT secondary, 38-34 helix, snopro green 3rd hole.

Sled is running at 8100+ rpm, and I do LOOONG pulls with it.

I've lost 2 belts to overshift this year, and 3 belts to pulled outside cord.

I have been running 71#weights and an orange-white cat spring in the prim, but today after another pulled cord I put 75# in it (cutler adjustables) and was still able to pull 8100 rpm, yet saw a jump in track speed while running next to a prior pull.

Deflection is set 1/8 out of the sheaves, but I'm thinking I might put it flush.

Also thinking I might need a torqe arm.

Any help????

 

[mrquick68]

I can't believe I read through all of this.

I'm having the same problem with my ported/piped M8, its pulling the outer cord.

RKT secondary, 38-34 helix, snopro green 3rd hole.

Sled is running at 8100+ rpm, and I do LOOONG pulls with it.

I've lost 2 belts to overshift this year, and 3 belts to pulled outside cord.

I have been running 71#weights and an orange-white cat spring in the prim, but today after another pulled cord I put 75# in it (cutler adjustables) and was still able to pull 8100 rpm, yet saw a jump in track speed while running next to a prior pull.

Deflection is set 1/8 out of the sheaves, but I'm thinking I might put it flush.

Also thinking I might need a torqe arm.

Any help????

well first off you need to make a white spacer for the kit, i think its BS kelsey doesn't provide one with it. I'm no trailer rider, but i hit a patch of ice and spun the track and overshifted - boom - belt everywhere.

as for pulling the cord on your M8, where's the heat? I'm guessing the primary?