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BD Turbo Pipe M8

side by side comparing with identical 09 m8 pump gas sleds show's that the pipe makes power. one sled running 7.3 lbs and the turbo pipe, the other at 8.7 lbs. the sled with the pipe still pulled harder even with lower psi. if I had to guess, it would take about 1.5-2 psi more than the piped sled to make them equal, so about 15hp .

I should add, that on my sled wrapping the turbo pipe with header wrap really helped with tuning as this pipe likes to be kept hot
 
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side by side comparing with identical 09 m8 pump gas sleds show's that the pipe makes power. one sled running 7.3 lbs and the turbo pipe, the other at 8.7 lbs. the sled with the pipe still pulled harder even with lower psi. if I had to guess, it would take about 1.5-2 psi more than the piped sled to make them equal, so about 15hp .

I should add, that on my sled wrapping the turbo pipe with header wrap really helped with tuning as this pipe likes to be kept hot

Someone who is smart with turbos walk me through this, but ...

How are you creating more horsepower at a lower level of boost?

It would have to be by dropping the charge temps. If the motor is making more power at 7.3 psi, the temperature has got to be quite a bit lower than the sled making less power at 8.7 psi, all things being equal. EG, the air density is actually greater at 7.3 psig and whatever temperature it takes to make it denser than the air at 8.7 psig at whatever temperature it is coming off the compressor at that pressure.

I can't see any other way that would happen.

So how does adding a pipe gives you an extra 15 horsepower at the crank? What does it do to make the turbo more efficient? I can't see where it would have anything to do with the compressor side.

I'd be very interested as to what it does to make the turbo spool quicker, but I just can't for the life of me see how adding a turbo pipe is going to give you any increase in horsepower.
 
i have that pipe on my Tm901 D&D 901 kit

I've always ran it with the turbo pipe, compared no running it with stock pipe, but sled is wicked powerful
 
Someone who is smart with turbos walk me through this, but ...

How are you creating more horsepower at a lower level of boost?

It would have to be by dropping the charge temps. If the motor is making more power at 7.3 psi, the temperature has got to be quite a bit lower than the sled making less power at 8.7 psi, all things being equal. EG, the air density is actually greater at 7.3 psig and whatever temperature it takes to make it denser than the air at 8.7 psig at whatever temperature it is coming off the compressor at that pressure.

I can't see any other way that would happen.

So how does adding a pipe gives you an extra 15 horsepower at the crank? What does it do to make the turbo more efficient? I can't see where it would have anything to do with the compressor side.

I'd be very interested as to what it does to make the turbo spool quicker, but I just can't for the life of me see how adding a turbo pipe is going to give you any increase in horsepower.


everything acts as a multiplyer, turbo or na sleds, eg if a pipe is more efficient than the stock one the turboed sled will make that extra power because the pipe is working better at the exact same boost levels. just like proper ported cylinders for boost they will flow more efficient and again make more power at the same boost levels. ita all in the process to make the engine/exhaust flow as efficient as possable which spins the turbo quicker/harder which in turn spins the compressor side just as fast.
 
everything acts as a multiplyer, turbo or na sleds, eg if a pipe is more efficient than the stock one the turboed sled will make that extra power because the pipe is working better at the exact same boost levels. just like proper ported cylinders for boost they will flow more efficient and again make more power at the same boost levels. ita all in the process to make the engine/exhaust flow as efficient as possable which spins the turbo quicker/harder which in turn spins the compressor side just as fast.

So basically what you're saying is, you put a turbo pipe on the sled, it has less restriction than the stocker. You have more flow coming out of the pipe, your waste gate still controls the speed of the compressor (thus boost), so you're just slipping more flow through your waste gate an still driving the same level of boost or less.

If you're driving less boost, you're making up for the lost power the higher level of boost would have created by allowing the motor to flow more through the pipe ....?

Something like that?
 
its not just flow on 2 stroke pipes, but chamber design for a turbo application, just like changing the stock pipe to a modded one, adjusting the powerband and tuning characteristics to compliment the turbo powerband.
 
Dog, It's not as simple as just less restriction... it could even be MORE restriction, or better scavenging from the pipe. I don't know the internals, but I wouldn't be surprised if that pipe had a longer pipe going inside the chamber from the stinger side.

Seeing the differences that pipes make on N/A sleds when we change the exh. side pipe length inside the chamber, it doesn't surprise me at all that a turbo would have different needs & be able to make more power with less boost having a proper pipe. Then if you change the chamber itself, it would gain even more hopefully.
 
I'm pretty sure Tom of Mountain Valley Motor Sports (307-587-6218) has ran a few with that pipe and a SW turbo pipe, he would be able to tell you, his BD kits last year ran flawless, he is one of the only guys I know that was able to make some of the earlier bd kits run and better than anyone else. He is also a BD dealer so if you get good info from him and want a pipe have him get it for you so he can get something back out of all the R&D. He runs at high elevation mostly so the power increase may not be as large.

I think OVS also make a good a turbo pipe.

Dog,Think of it this way, (if it makes sense) a 2010 makes 160hp and a 09 makes 142hp put them both on 6lbs of boost and the 2010 will stomp the 09. So take either without boost, add a pipe and it adds power, so there again you are starting with more power to boost off of. But on turbos you want a different flow design because the exhaust has a lot higher pressure to spin the turbo (thus the need for extra springs). So you are increasing the overall power, increasing flow characteristics -- i e tuning capabilities(not free flow), but a turbo pipe and a NA pipe are completely different. A two stroke has to have a tuned pipe to work properly because there are no actual valves in the cylinder, so you need a pipe that will allow flow but also maintain backpressure at different rpms to create a power curve. Porting can do the same thing and depends on NA or turbo and there are even different porting methods for different pipes na or turbo.
 
Ok, so on the BD turbo pipe ... what is the little peice of aluminum with rivet holes it came with? Where does that go? It looks like its supposed to support the pipe somewhere but I can't see where, they didn't include a schematic with it when they shipped it to me :(
 
Ok, so on the BD turbo pipe ... what is the little peice of aluminum with rivet holes it came with? Where does that go? It looks like its supposed to support the pipe somewhere but I can't see where, they didn't include a schematic with it when they shipped it to me :(


"The Little Plate Of Aluminum" Is To Support the Exhaust Pipe. It Basically Fits Where the stock Mount site at the Rear Largest Diameter Of the Pipe. You Have To drill Two Or Three Tiny Holes So that you can Rivet The Plate To The Stock Mounting Location. Then Attach The Factory Spring to the Plate.

I Believe it is required Because The Turbo Pipe Sits 1/2" Higher Up then the stock Pipe.
 
"The Little Plate Of Aluminum" Is To Support the Exhaust Pipe. It Basically Fits Where the stock Mount site at the Rear Largest Diameter Of the Pipe. You Have To drill Two Or Three Tiny Holes So that you can Rivet The Plate To The Stock Mounting Location. Then Attach The Factory Spring to the Plate.

I Believe it is required Because The Turbo Pipe Sits 1/2" Higher Up then the stock Pipe.

Where the spring holds it down to the bumper on the 90 degree bend? Drill the stock mount out then rivet this one in?
 
i have the speedwerx turbo pipe looks just like the boondocker one and it made night and day diffrance on my race gas kit got most of the lag gone and tons more power
 
Compare the shape of these turbo pipes to the 2010 M8 HO pipe, not much different. I was playing with the 2010 pipe and it does pull harder on the top end than the 09 does. The 09 is a better all around pipe, I found. If I was heading out for a day of hill climbing, I would use my 2010 pipe. All other days, my 09 pipe. The 2010 is noticeably doggier out of the hole and in the bottom end RPM range, compared to the 09 pipe.

I discarded the stock stinger pipe and used a larger ID stinger tube to go into the turbo.

I would try modifying a 2010 pipe, you can pick them up for a hundred bucks or less. Call cutler and ask about the parts for his pipe mod, it's cheap too.
 
My plan was to put the pipe on, tune it for 8.5 psi, then see what the 2010 HO head did to it with the timing retard key .... then retune and see what drove like.
 
I'm running an HO head also. Very nice through the bottom and mid range, this is where the HO head shines. It feels more solid on the top end too, but no "huge" gains up top.

10-12 psi, 100 LL, 6000 feet riding area. I start from the parking lot at about 1000 feet. No deto
 
Do you happen to have any pics of exactly how that pipe support was supposed to be riveted? I am still not seeing that.
 
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