BCA Tracker - Lithium Batteries DON'T WORK!

[ItDoAble]

I learned something new yesterday, and was wondering if others know of this issue.

I have 2 BCA Tracker Avalanche beacons, one of the older units and a new one.

Issue is when I put Lithium batteries in either one, they go into error when in tracking mode. Danger is that they seem to transmit OK with the Lithium, but will not receive a signal. So, if I hadn't checked the units in tracking mode, I would have had no idea that I couldn't find a victim with these batteries.

Tried regular alkaline & rechargables .. both worked fine in both units.

 

[yardsale_oem]

that is awesome info to share!!!!! good rep for ya!!!!

 

[Vertical_Escape]

BCA's manual that comes with the beacon plainly states to use Alkaline, not lithium.

 

[m_beeson]

I've got the tracker, I just run alkaline in it. It usually holds its charge for a month or so. I check the battery strength when I turn it on, and don't let it get below 50%-60%.

Lithium issue is good to know...

 

[V-Man]

Never use rechargables, ever. They don't last long enough and are a weaker battery. During our avy class this year they suggested we use Duracell only. I've never measured a battery, but supposedly these things are built to the specs of a Duracell and you may have inconsistant results with other brands.

 

[yardsale_oem]

i cant find the manual for my pieps.....does that pertain to all beacons or just bca i wonder

 

[ItDoAble]

Yep .. now that I look at the battery cover on both BCA units, it clearly states Alkaline batteries. And SPOT says to use Lithium only. GPS and Radio can apparently use anything.

 

[Ex-Member]

Never use rechargables, ever. They don't last long enough and are a weaker battery. During our avy class this year they suggested we use Duracell only. I've never measured a battery, but supposedly these things are built to the specs of a Duracell and you may have inconsistant results with other brands.

The current-vs-voltage curves are different betwteen alkaline, NiCd, NiMH, LiIon, LiPoly, gel cell, lead-acid, etc. Most of the time the only thing you'll notice switching between them is the battery meter reads different. Occasionally, devices won't work at all (Voltage changes too much with load).

Between different brands of alkaline... As long as you go with a name-brand battery you're probably OK. Drop in a set of "Jing-Zao" or similar, probably won't last as long and might leak.

Best way to test a battery is to chart the voltage to current. Just putting a voltmeter across an unloaded battery will give you a good voltage measurement because the impedance of the meter is so high. Load the battery down to 100mA, 200mA, 500mA and take voltage measurements. When the slope of that line exceeds some amount, the battery's "dead".

I don't run anything but alkaline in my beacon, and replace them when it gets <75%. Batteries are cheap and they last a while in there. Not worth it to cheap out on that stuff.

 

[yardsale_oem]

The current-vs-voltage curves are different betwteen alkaline, NiCd, NiMH, LiIon, LiPoly, gel cell, lead-acid, etc. Most of the time the only thing you'll notice switching between them is the battery meter reads different. Occasionally, devices won't work at all (Voltage changes too much with load).

Between different brands of alkaline... As long as you go with a name-brand battery you're probably OK. Drop in a set of "Jing-Zao" or similar, probably won't last as long and might leak.

Best way to test a battery is to chart the voltage to current. Just putting a voltmeter across an unloaded battery will give you a good voltage measurement because the impedance of the meter is so high. Load the battery down to 100mA, 200mA, 500mA and take voltage measurements. When the slope of that line exceeds some amount, the battery's "dead".

I don't run anything but alkaline in my beacon, and replace them when it gets <75%. Batteries are cheap and they last a while in there. Not worth it to cheap out on that stuff.

^X2^...............yeah, what he said!!!

 

[RMKcowboy]

I've got the tracker, I just run alkaline in it. It usually holds its charge for a month or so. I check the battery strength when I turn it on, and don't let it get below 50%-60%.

Lithium issue is good to know...

How do you check the battery charge?
ItDoAble, thanks for posting this info- reps to you.

 

[c-bolt]

Ill rep ya when I get out of jail...good info.

A consumer review magazine/website tested all alkaline batteries. All these were rated the same...just for your info...

Kirkland Signature (Costco)
Energizer e2 Titanium
Walgreens Ultra Supercell
Radio Shack Digital Plus
Duracell Coppertop
Duracell Ultra Digital
Rayovac
Panasonic Digital Power

These two didnt get good reviews

CVS
Energizer Max

Dont be fooled by the sparkly packaging on some batteries, for the money, its hard to beat the costco batteries, especially since they have the same ratings as the more expensive ones

BTW, as far as lithium batteries go, the Energizer ultimate is the way to go! But apparently not in your beacon!

 

[sbojan]

Lithium batteries in GPS

I have started using lithium batteries in my GPS unit - actually tried them only because the store was out of alkaline. Amazed at the difference. I used to get 2 full days of riding out of 2 regular AA's. I have had the lithium in for 5 days of riding and am still well over 1/2 power remaining. Not sure the reason for this, perhaps it is the better cold weather performance but I am sold on them now.

 

[moyiesledhead]

So, if I hadn't checked the units in tracking mode, I would have had no idea that I couldn't find a victim with these batteries.

Suppose to do that every time you put it on!

 

[ItDoAble]

Suppose to do that every time you put it on!

Somehow .. I knew that was coming.

 

[Stovebolt]

Why I don't ever use lithium in a beacon....

.........but I use them for everything else.

Because, lithium batteries are great and last a lot longer, especially in the cold. BUT - they last and last and last and then, instead of more slowly losing their charge, they drop right off to patooey. Not a bad thing at all, except for a beacon.

When you self-test every time you turn the unit ON, you read the remaining charge value in percentage. You will always read a consistently higher level of charge remaining on the lithium batts, regardless of how long the battery life remaining actually is. So, you will be fooled one day into believing that your batts actually have a good amount of "time" remaining on them, based on the measured remaining charge value from the beacon self-test, and then at some point on some ride, or under the most-needed circumstances, the lithiums do what they were designed to to - perform like a raped ape (and measured accordingly), but then drop right off and go tango uniform on you. Not good for a beacon when what you want to know when you turn it on before a ride, and it self-tests, is will these batts go for the next 2 days on me? Not necesarily that it measures a high charge value.

Duracells ride in my beacons for this reason, and lithiums in the camera, and my crappy Garmin V.

Great info on the batts from you guys in this thread - thanks. Put mine in the FWIW side, and good luck.

Stovebolt
Team Ruptured Buzzard

 

[dp2826]

anyone know when the new bca beacon is up for sale?

 

[Bigrock33]

Thanks for the info - I had just put lithiums in the Trackers yesterday and then read the post. I took them out and mine did the same thing - said "er" when switching from search to transmit. I changed batteries and retested and it does the same thing - says "er" going from search back to transmit. Is this normal?