Battery beneficial to electric system?
- Thread starter Griff
- Start date
If you are running additional power for add-ons, fans, boost, A/F gauge, turbo oil pump, lights, the battery provides a way to get clean consistent 12v current without straining the 12v DC side of the VR. 12v AC is subject to flux in current. The pro just doesn't have alot of room for additional electrical draw.
FWIW - they are not cheap, but lithium batteries make a huge diff (I've been very happy with the improved 2014 EarthX 36C this year - starts on it's own at 0F, but haven't tried it -20F this year), and Fire and Ice now make an aluminum bat box that's reduced in size for lith batts. Add a can like a Diamond S, and you're alot closer to stock with no e-start. I know my wallet is lighter, maybe that's why it feels like the sled is lighter, too. I did say - not cheap. You're in for $1K US or thereabouts to pull that off. Good luck.
FWIW - they are not cheap, but lithium batteries make a huge diff (I've been very happy with the improved 2014 EarthX 36C this year - starts on it's own at 0F, but haven't tried it -20F this year), and Fire and Ice now make an aluminum bat box that's reduced in size for lith batts. Add a can like a Diamond S, and you're alot closer to stock with no e-start. I know my wallet is lighter, maybe that's why it feels like the sled is lighter, too. I did say - not cheap. You're in for $1K US or thereabouts to pull that off. Good luck.
I will chime in just to make some think.
I do not have estart and no battery, i went to a diamond-s can (8lbs lighter than stock).
I now notice my mag side of the sled to be lighter than the pto side, enough that i have a couple extra turns on the spring on the front shock on pto side.
I am unsure if its just me and/or my stance or the actual difference in weight from side to side that i am feeling.
I have considered adding a batt on the mag side to both even out the weight distribution and have extra capacity for power draw.
If nothing else i will be adding a box in place of the batt to carry additional items in that location.
I do not have estart and no battery, i went to a diamond-s can (8lbs lighter than stock).
I now notice my mag side of the sled to be lighter than the pto side, enough that i have a couple extra turns on the spring on the front shock on pto side.
I am unsure if its just me and/or my stance or the actual difference in weight from side to side that i am feeling.
I have considered adding a batt on the mag side to both even out the weight distribution and have extra capacity for power draw.
If nothing else i will be adding a box in place of the batt to carry additional items in that location.
M
mike_s
Well-known member
Actually, no, the battery has no connection to the sleds electrical system other than the charge wire from the regulator/rectifier. It does not feed any power to the sleds electrical system, the only discharge connections it has are to the electric starting system, which is independant from the dc system of the sled. So, no, it will not stabilize, augment, or aid the electrical system. It is, in fact, just another draw on the dc system.
Your spot on, the PTO side with a 170lb rider standing on the sled is 50lbs heavier then the MAG side when the front spring preload is equal side to side. I setup my suspension with 4 electronic racing scales, one scale pad under each shock. If you try to make them perfect side to side the MAG side shock has way too much preload on it and makes it harder to pull over on that side. I end up normally with the PTO side 20-25lbs heavier when Im done adjusting all 4 shocks. Eric
Good to know i am not going crazy, thanks for the info.
I should mention my primary clutch is 1.25 lbs lighter than stock, now i have to figure out how to remove more weight from the pto side.
I could run less oil i suppose.
Sorry for the thread derail guys.
I should mention my primary clutch is 1.25 lbs lighter than stock, now i have to figure out how to remove more weight from the pto side.
I could run less oil i suppose.
Sorry for the thread derail guys.
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I just reread your post and think you might be adjusting backwards for the unbalanced weight. When you increase the pre-load on shock it adds weight to that shock. You don't want to think of it as adding preload will shift weight to the other side, that's not how it works.
For example, with the front shocks equal and a 170lb rider on the sled, the PTO side weighs 178lbs MAG side weighs 128lbs. When you increase the spring preload on the MAG side one turn it will add about 5lbs of weight to the MAG side and remove 5lbs of weight from the PTO, resulting in PTO 173lbs, MAG 133lbs. Hope that's clear/helpful. Eric
For example, with the front shocks equal and a 170lb rider on the sled, the PTO side weighs 178lbs MAG side weighs 128lbs. When you increase the spring preload on the MAG side one turn it will add about 5lbs of weight to the MAG side and remove 5lbs of weight from the PTO, resulting in PTO 173lbs, MAG 133lbs. Hope that's clear/helpful. Eric
Critical things you should know when going to a lithium battery, they will NOT tolerate voltages over 14.8.
If you do go to a lithium, run your headlights on high and handwarmers on low/high to scrub off some of the voltage/current. There's a thread in here, talking about lithium batteries. Murph provides some excellent info as that's what he does at work.
I run the Anti-Gravity FTX12-20, 600CCA. Weighs 5lbs
The Fire n Ice battery box came about due to I wanted a lighter battery box. So here's a pic of the proto type I've using this season.
The box is roughly 1lb less than the stock one.
If you do go to a lithium, run your headlights on high and handwarmers on low/high to scrub off some of the voltage/current. There's a thread in here, talking about lithium batteries. Murph provides some excellent info as that's what he does at work.
I run the Anti-Gravity FTX12-20, 600CCA. Weighs 5lbs
The Fire n Ice battery box came about due to I wanted a lighter battery box. So here's a pic of the proto type I've using this season.
The box is roughly 1lb less than the stock one.
SRXSRULE- Ah yes i see what you are saying.
I found the PTO side diving on me much more easily than the MAG side, i added preload to the PTO side so it wouldnt dive as much. I havent had much snow to test so i will have to try it the other way as you state. Of course i added all new shocks this summer so things are different than before, not much of a starting point to go from and no snow to test with.
Richracer1- Any chance a box like that would be available with a lid just for storage and not housing a battery?
I found the PTO side diving on me much more easily than the MAG side, i added preload to the PTO side so it wouldnt dive as much. I havent had much snow to test so i will have to try it the other way as you state. Of course i added all new shocks this summer so things are different than before, not much of a starting point to go from and no snow to test with.
Richracer1- Any chance a box like that would be available with a lid just for storage and not housing a battery?
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Found that thread.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=385556&highlight=Anti-Gravity
FYI, I figure I've lost around 16lbs off the mag side using a lithium battery, the FnI battery box, a Pro Ti Lite silencer, and SLP pipe.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=385556&highlight=Anti-Gravity
FYI, I figure I've lost around 16lbs off the mag side using a lithium battery, the FnI battery box, a Pro Ti Lite silencer, and SLP pipe.
EXACTLY what Reg2View said.
If you run other accessory electrical devices... like Turbo pumps, AFR gagues, EGT gauges, fans, blowholes, lighting, chargers etc... the battery will provide the cleanest 12 power source and not tax the system.
If you want a clean simple installation. Put a fuse block to all of your accessories and a time-delay relay that is triggered on by the sleds "DC ACC" connector... You will then have a system that turn itself off at a pre determined delay so you don't forget to turn them off... AND you don't kill the battery.... 60-90 seconds delay will give you the ability to start/stop/start without all of the electronics re-booting everytime... and if you have a turbo oil pump... you will have an oil cool down/pre-lube system built in.
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If you run other accessory electrical devices... like Turbo pumps, AFR gagues, EGT gauges, fans, blowholes, lighting, chargers etc... the battery will provide the cleanest 12 power source and not tax the system.
If you want a clean simple installation. Put a fuse block to all of your accessories and a time-delay relay that is triggered on by the sleds "DC ACC" connector... You will then have a system that turn itself off at a pre determined delay so you don't forget to turn them off... AND you don't kill the battery.... 60-90 seconds delay will give you the ability to start/stop/start without all of the electronics re-booting everytime... and if you have a turbo oil pump... you will have an oil cool down/pre-lube system built in.
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Or you could use another bottle and relocate the oil bottle to the mag side and get all of that mess away from the clutches anyway
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