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Axys 163 3 inch flipping over

I can't even begin to keep the front end lift in check. On a hill it's a wretched beast..comes over regularly. Stock it was just about right..front end would stay down but I could pull it up when I wanted. I have done a little work to the motor and clutch and now it flips over too easy.

I'm curious what everyone else is doing to get the skis down a bit? The limiter does not look to be adjustable..

Thanks!
 
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Progressive spring.
Soft in the chatter.
Keeps the front end down.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks!



It made a difference over stock?


Yeah stock suspension with the slp pipe is a wheelie over backwards special.
Even with it cranked way tight.

After clutching i had to even crank this spring another 1/4".
Totally controllable now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Is that without the spring?

I,m running a Camo 3 inch on a very fast doo BB, even with the timbersled rear shox pumped up solid so rear doesn't move It will come over backwards, If you add enough power the hook up will stand on its tail.spring will help but that's simply the 3 inch hookup along wit HP.
 
Is that without the spring?

That is with the spring.
A2d motorsports clutching.
3000 ft. Elevation.
Lean back and the nose comes up lean forward and regain control.

Thats my brothers sled but we have both sleds setup nearly identical.

The polaris coilover suspension is very sensitive to spring force.
Small adjustments for riding conditions is key.
Fluff vs wet
Steep trees vs open spaces
Ect.
 
That is with the spring.
A2d motorsports clutching.
3000 ft. Elevation.
Lean back and the nose comes up lean forward and regain control.

Thats my brothers sled but we have both sleds setup nearly identical.

The polaris coilover suspension is very sensitive to spring force.
Small adjustments for riding conditions is key.
Fluff vs wet
Steep trees vs open spaces
Ect.

Your brother appears to have a 163 3" in the voodoo blue? If he wants to sell at the end of the season please let me know!!
 
I'm digging the custom spring from SMF/RCS.

SMF... How does that spring differ from the Raptor and ZBroz progressive rear springs?






.
 
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I'm hoping to get some feedback also from 3" Axys owners that are using coupling devices like the KISS-ZBroz and the ARC-SPG setups...or a full K-mod or T-sled skid.

The ProRide chassis with the 3" tracks lifted as well... but not as much as the AXYS with the all new skid and chassis geometry.


Keeping it "Playful" but ability to adjust lift-control with a device... is a different tac... but might be worth checking into.
 
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I'm digging the custom spring from SMF/RCS.

SMF... How does that spring differ from the Raptor and ZBroz progressive rear springs?

.

I dont know how it compares.
A local shock guy : ron zugg ( zuggershocks.com ) set my suspension up with rear springs and revalve.
My brother just bought the spring to control ski lift, so far we are both very happy with the ride and handling.
I'm 220 and he is 170 so i usually have my suspension redone sooner than him anyways.
 
I set my stock rear shock as stiff as it would go, then loosened the front track shock all the way. Installed kiss coupling and set to the highest setting. Gets on top of the snow and stays bout perfect unless you try to pull up. Running side kick turbo on a 3" 163 and I'm 220 without gear.
 
Suspended in the air, I have my RTS spring cranked to 9.75" from end to end. Pretty stiff (way stiffer than stock), especially for me weighing 155 without gear, and its still a wheelie monster compared to the old Pro.
 
I put Carl's #230 rear shock spring on and it made all the difference in the world. These sleds are sprung too light on the rear shock and they transfer hard and fast in stock form.
 
I like how it transfers alot of the time...it's fun. Just when it's really steep and it's pulling hard it lifts so bad I have to get out of the throttle too much.

All 3 inch sleds are prone to it. After I got my 174 t3 big bore working just right and clutched right it comes up pretty bad too. With some shock and spring work its controllable though.

I'm leaning towards trying a coupling block. So it can be adjusted

Thanks!
 
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