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Axis 3"/2.6"

w2bridin

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
What is the reason the 3" track comes with chain case and 2.6" comes with belt drive? Is the chain case longer allowing more room for the 3" or does Polaris think the 3" is too much torque on the belt? I assume the chain driven axis has more room for the 3" track but I can't seem to find out for sure.
 
The official reason from Polaris is they cant achieve the proper gear ratio needed for the 3" track with the belt drive. They dont have enough clearance to go larger on the bottom gear, nor enough belt contact area to go smaller on the upper gear.

Both sleds have the drive shaft in the same location, and both use 7 tooth drivers. 3" track is a 3.0 pitch and 2.6 track is a 2.86 pitch.

My 16 was a 163 x 3, my 17 was a 163 x 2.6

My ideal sled would be a 163 X 3 with the chain case, and the outside lugs of the 3" track cut down to 2.6 ..... In case anyone wanted to know :) Eric
 
The official reason from Polaris is they cant achieve the proper gear ratio needed for the 3" track with the belt drive. They dont have enough clearance to go larger on the bottom gear, nor enough belt contact area to go smaller on the upper gear.

Both sleds have the drive shaft in the same location, and both use 7 tooth drivers. 3" track is a 3.0 pitch and 2.6 track is a 2.86 pitch.

The official line is BS of course, as evidenced by all the guys putting Pro sprockets on their Axys 2.6" belt drives.
 
So you guys are saying if a guy was planning on putting a turbo axis together with a 3" power claw track there is no reason not to order the 2.6" with belt drive and switch out the 2.6 for the 3" power claw..
 
So you guys are saying if a guy was planning on putting a turbo axis together with a 3" power claw track there is no reason not to order the 2.6" with belt drive and switch out the 2.6 for the 3" power claw..

You would need to switch track drivers if you did that.

You also get a steel drive shaft with the 3", vs the aluminum shaft in the 2.6

Chain case has easy/cheap gearing options, belt drive requires a 700-900 kit to change the gearing. Gearing is key in turbo set-ups to load the motor.

Both systems have +'s and -'s You decide what fits your needs the best. Eric
 
There were quite a few chaincase failures last year resulting in taking out the bulkhead. A belt failure only takes out the belt. A TKI belt drive is super simple to change a belt or gearing on the trail if needed. Super smooth and light weight. I put a turbo on my axys 3'' along with anti ratchets,tki belt drive. If there is a failure it should be less destructive than a chain and free up some hp.
 
There were quite a few chaincase failures last year resulting in taking out the bulkhead. A belt failure only takes out the belt. A TKI belt drive is super simple to change a belt or gearing on the trail if needed. Super smooth and light weight. I put a turbo on my axys 3'' along with anti ratchets,tki belt drive. If there is a failure it should be less destructive than a chain and free up some hp.

I dare say that your post is fear mongering by exaggeration. I don't think we heard of a single one on this forum.
 
I'd just go with the TKI on a turbo deal, great setup and will pretty much take anything you can chuck at it, plus tons of cogs for all kinds of ratios, however there is ZERO wrong with a good ol chaincase like we have run over 200 hp on for years with zero issues Stock belt drive + turbo = issues (ive seen at least 3 break belts @ 10 pounds +)
 
I'd just go with the TKI on a turbo deal, great setup and will pretty much take anything you can chuck at it, plus tons of cogs for all kinds of ratios, however there is ZERO wrong with a good ol chaincase like we have run over 200 hp on for years with zero issues Stock belt drive + turbo = issues (ive seen at least 3 break belts @ 10 pounds +)

I thought I saw a company making a tensioner for the stock belt setup. Has anyone tried those with good or bad luck?
 
There were quite a few chaincase failures last year resulting in taking out the bulkhead. A belt failure only takes out the belt. A TKI belt drive is super simple to change a belt or gearing on the trail if needed. Super smooth and light weight. I put a turbo on my axys 3'' along with anti ratchets,tki belt drive. If there is a failure it should be less destructive than a chain and free up some hp.

I dont recall hearing about any chaincase failures. But, I guess if you dont adjust your chain as it wears in and stretches its going to fail. Eric
 
I thought I saw a company making a tensioner for the stock belt setup. Has anyone tried those with good or bad luck?

Its not really a belt tensioner- it is for belt deflection.

Belt deflection guide kit prevents the Polaris Quick-Drive belt from ballooning out & crawling up onto the drive pulley cogs while under deceleration.
 
For what it is worth, I had a 2011 Turbo'd Pro with the steel drive shaft and a C3 Belt drive installed. I snapped the drive shaft off and the belt held just fine. Currently have 3" with chain case and love it.

IMG_3566.JPG IMG_3565.JPG IMG_4160.JPG
 
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