Auto Tune... ????'s

[NapaMatt]

Sled.. is a 07 Polaris 660 CFI- 4 with Slp pipe

Well Hello Guys!!!


So After Much in depth reading and Reading some more. Seaming like PC-V and Auto Tune are a Good Match.

Well i know the little 600 doesn't like 11.2 at idle!!! LAMO! She liked it up top!





So... How do i make the Auto Tune Feature To Start working at only 4500 Rpm and Above...

In the Table.. Just start putting Number in after 4500... For Target Fuel Trim??


Also what #'s of Air Fuel Ratio are you shooting for!!

13.1 For Trail and Fuel Ecomony

12.1 to be safe

11.5 on the Top end!



Lets hear some real info!!!

 

[shelbwyo]

Where can I read some more on this auto tune?

 

[RACINSTATION]

For best results you want a graduated map that starts around 15:1 at idle and then move through the range to 12:1 or 12.2:1 at wide open. You need to know your machine and what it will handle as far as afr ratios.

Autotune is a great device or tool. I find it really helps to fine tune a map that is close. It is not a great tool for starting with nothing and building a map. It doesn't have quick enough reaction time in the lower, 5000 and below, rpms. When it sees and event and reacts, the event has already occurred and it has moved on to another event that is 500 to 1500 rpms away so you get some really drastic trim recommendations that flat don't work.

 

[Mentzel]

15:1 ??? Man that is lean! Even at idle. I would be checking your sensor. Mine almost engaged at 14.5:1, and rolled away.

 

[NapaMatt]

For best results you want a graduated map that starts around 15:1 at idle and then move through the range to 12:1 or 12.2:1 at wide open. You need to know your machine and what it will handle as far as afr ratios.

Autotune is a great device or tool. I find it really helps to fine tune a map that is close. It is not a great tool for starting with nothing and building a map. It doesn't have quick enough reaction time in the lower, 5000 and below, rpms. When it sees and event and reacts, the event has already occurred and it has moved on to another event that is 500 to 1500 rpms away so you get some really drastic trim recommendations that flat don't work.

See this right here....

This is WHY i Don't want the AUTO Tune on from IDLE to Clutch Engagement!!!


So i must just leave the boxes Zero till i want it to start.. "Tuning"

 

[Rick!]

For best results you want a graduated map that starts around 15:1 at idle and then move through the range to 12:1 or 12.2:1 at wide open. You need to know your machine and what it will handle as far as afr ratios.

Autotune is a great device or tool. I find it really helps to fine tune a map that is close. It is not a great tool for starting with nothing and building a map. It doesn't have quick enough reaction time in the lower, 5000 and below, rpms. When it sees and event and reacts, the event has already occurred and it has moved on to another event that is 500 to 1500 rpms away so you get some really drastic trim recommendations that flat don't work.

See this right here....

This is WHY i Don't want the AUTO Tune on from IDLE to Clutch Engagement!!!


So i must just leave the boxes Zero till i want it to start.. "Tuning"

I agree with Racinstation for the most part but I run different values for AFR's on Poo's. The undriveable hee-haw crap when cold is a lean condition of greater than 17:1. No damage occurs, just poor driveability. The new 800's are still at 16-16.5:1 under 10% TPS when cold - a few % fuel add here makes for better manners at low speeds. 15:1 is ok for most everywhere with TPS below 15%. I ran my 700's at 12.75 on Autotune at WOT and never let it get below 12.5:1. The 800's wanted just a tad more fuel at WOT. Hell, I even adjusted fuel with the coolant temp input to make the sled run when cold 'cause I pull and go without waiting for 10 minutes for it to warm up.

Of course, you need a good AFR to help tailor your map to your engine. There is no replacement or shortcut to just riding and watching your AFR to see what is going on and when. A half mile (1/4 section) farm field makes for a great tune/test track.

Last thing, when you see big autotune adds (like 20% or more) at two spots in the map, usually around 15%TPS/5K and then around 20%TPS/6250 to 40%TPS/6500, don't add all that fuel. You aren't fixing a Poo map flaw, it's just some manipulations to make better overall driveability. I usually just look at the boxes around the really big add and use an average to adjust the suspicious values.

I can provide examples or you can go here:
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=231708

and look at what others have done. Be careful with Stoutner maps, use at your own discretion.