Attention all polaris rmk iq raw owners

[F-Bomb]

At Snowmobile Better Boards we are getting a significant number of requests for a stronger replacement footbed bar on the "RAW" chassis as an additional enhancement for Polaris RAW owners. I personally ride this chassis and have also bent multiple stock bars. Almost every single sled that I've worked on also has a sagging or slightly bent set. I have also replaced several that were seriously damaged. Replacement retail cost on the stock part is about $140 per side or a net of $280. We spec'd a design that would be of chromoly and be the same physical weight and fitment but would have a thicker inner wall diameter for enhanced structure and strength.

My question and the point of this thread is to test the waters with how many people would be interested in this product or have experienced having to replace the stockers. It is a significant financial commitment to bring these to market and we would like to get a "BETTER" feel for demand and acceptance. Obviously price and performance are important considerations....

We think that they will be about 30% net cost under the factory stock OEM part while being significantly stronger. That sounds wonderful to me but we have to build a huge number to make that fly.

COMMENTS PLEASE

 

[mountainhorse]

Great Idea... I had a custom set made from 4130 last year and they cost a lot more than the $195/pair you are talking about... So yours would be a GREAT value... especially compared to stock...

Some people may have a hard time figuring out what you are talking about...

#9 in this dwg.

 

[mountainhorse]

Heres another tac

Rob... what do you think?

With the .125" stock that you use for the BB's... You could increase strength in the RB's by bending a 90 along the length of the outside edge of the B-board... heck... serrate it a bit in the water jet cutout for more traction. That could also add to the rigidity without changing the design much.

I had a freind do a simple FEA analysis of this... it is actually a pretty significant change to rigidity given the .125 thickness.

If you are worried about ice build up in that area... run a bead of silicone between the BB edge and RB rollover.

Supply a 5/8" wide, full length , .125" thick backer plate for the rivets on the outside edge (lengthwise), under the running board, as a backer for the rivets to tie everything together... double up on the rivets on the outside edge as well. That will help tie it together once this 90 is bent. It would sandwitch the remainder of the thin .063 stock RB that is cutout for the BB install.

This would be much more rigid stock/current-BB combo because of the strength that a Better Board with the 90 on it would add.

Unlike a flange at the tunnel side...this would not stress the tunnel at the rear Drop.

 

[Sxrlar]

I would be interested for sure, mine are bent on mine, having a set that would not bend would rock. Guys could take off the stock ones when new, put yours on, ride it that way until they get decide to sell or trade, then put the new stock ones back on.

 

[rmk727]

I'm in for 3 to start with, like the Horses input

 

[Jkinzer]

i think its a great idea... i've never seen a sled that they werent bent... being cheaper than stock would be a huge selling point as well, most of my customers through them up on blocks and bend them back a couple times a year and then replace at the beginning of the next. would be great to have something to sell them that would actually work!

 

[Sled Solutions]

My 09's are bent and would be interested!

 

[F-Bomb]

Yep Eric I'll have to study that concept. We've also considered doing them with an added welded tab for more base support and a stronger over all componant. And thanks on the schematic. (part location #9 is what we are talking about here) I have had thoughts of guys completely removing the factory outer section of tunnel which includes the razor edge but I'm concerned that it will be horribly slick and then we would have to make another capping product to battle that. So in theory we might be able to put that outer L bend and have it scalloped for traction and then the outer bar wouldn't come into play. I do see some snow catching ramifications. Just like all designs there are some plus and minus factors to be considered.

Kind of like A arms and suspension parts...if you make them the same as stock then they will be significantly stronger. If you make them the same strength as stock you can save weight with metal content. I'm thinking strength as that is clearly the issue with the factory part.

Like you say a one off custom is horribly expensive but so is the minimum quantities that we have to put together to make this a viable part that isn't $400 or $500 in short quantities. Usually you can trick some poor sap into fabbing up a single set for reasonable but once they realize the work involved you can never get more then a couple. Worse yet when you want to go into production mode.

Guys have got to quit thinking in terms of simple metal and a bit of fab time. The product costs from concept to consumer is unbelievably massive and the only way to make parts viable for this business is in very large quantities. You also have to have incredible resources to make it all happen. Our market is small and that just handicaps manufactures even more. I'm not talking your backyard garage stuff who put out ten of something and then realize how expensive their time really is and go back to working their real job. (I call those guys here today gone tomorrow aftermarket companies...there is a list about a mile long in the sled industry) I'm talking a real business with real overhead like product liability insurance, equipment, employees, packaging, distribution, R & D, marketing, ect ect that will still be manufacturing and supporting products not only next season but five years down the road or longer.

 

[hilinerider]

^^ so you have one being fab'd up right know???

 

[CROW]

Mine are bent, I'm in.

 

[TEC800]

I would take a set and putting that reinforcement tab on there for the remaining tab of the running board/BB would also move another set of BB's out the door. That is the only reason I haven't bought a set yet, I don't trust that little tab that is left after all of the old running board is cut out.

 

[poorider]

[QUOTE We spec'd a design that would be of chromoly and be the same physical weight and fitment but would have a thicker inner wall diameter for enhanced structure and strength.




Rob I have a question about this, how is it possible to have the same weight with a thicker wall diameter?

 

[CROW]

[QUOTE We spec'd a design that would be of chromoly and be the same physical weight and fitment but would have a thicker inner wall diameter for enhanced structure and strength.




Rob I have a question about this, how is it possible to have the same weight with a thicker wall diameter?

Material. Chromoly is lighter and stronger than the steel that Polaris uses.

 

[poorider]

sorry dude, chromoly weighs the same as steel.
The reason parts made from chromoly are usually lighter than those made from mild steel is because generally the wall thickness used is lighter, so either rob's are thicker and heavier or the wall thickness is lighter gauge, you can't have thicker and lighter

 

[meathooker]

this is a great idea. i drew a set up like this last year and think it would add a good amount of rigidity. my only concern would be if the aftermarket foot board flexed it could separate a from the outer edge and create an unsighly gap

Heres another tac

Rob... what do you think?

With the .125" stock that you use for the BB's... You could increase strength in the RB's by bending a 90 along the length of the outside edge of the B-board... heck... serrate it a bit in the water jet cutout for more traction. That could also add to the rigidity without changing the design much.

I had a freind do a simple FEA analysis of this... it is actually a pretty significant change to rigidity given the .125 thickness.

If you are worried about ice build up in that area... run a bead of silicone between the BB edge and RB rollover.

Supply a 5/8" wide, full length , .125" thick backer plate for the rivets on the outside edge (lengthwise), under the running board, as a backer for the rivets to tie everything together... double up on the rivets on the outside edge as well. That will help tie it together once this 90 is bent. It would sandwitch the remainder of the thin .063 stock RB that is cutout for the BB install.

This would be much more rigid stock/current-BB combo because of the strength that a Better Board with the 90 on it would add.

Unlike a flange at the tunnel side...this would not stress the tunnel at the rear Drop.

 

[RSI]

I need a set, how much would the kit be Rob?

 

[sledneck_03]

ive never bent one yet, i always thought they were so much stronger than the xp, ive seen a ton of them bent but not the steel ones

 

[mountainhorse]

Meat hooker... with the .125" x 5/8" full length backing strip to go under the Running board for as a "back up" for the rivets to sandwitch the stock RB between that and the Better board..IMO... I see the board and the edge bending as one and should be no problem... just use an ample amount of rivets.

AS for any gaps that might be unsightly or hold ice... run a bead, full length, of black silicone sealant between the stock aluminum roll and the Better board insert 90 degree flange... that would allow it seal that area from ever holding ice (cured silicone is hdrophobic) and make the job look good... plus it wont ever crack out if the surface is clean and dirt/oil free (acetone or degreaser on a scotch brite pad)

 

[Trenchmaster]

Sounds like a pretty common problem, I just noticed that one of mine was bent when I dropped it off for the recall.

 

[AndrettiDog]

ive never bent one yet, i always thought they were so much stronger than the xp, ive seen a ton of them bent but not the steel ones

I've had to replace a set. But the good thing is that they are stronger than the XP to begin with and then have the added benefit of being replaceable.

I'm curious about the price as well. It would be a good compliment to the Better Boards product. If the price was less than the stock ones (please be less!), then it could be come a hot swap product. Maybe even offer some different colors as that gets people buying as well.