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Attack Angle On Track

shorter shocks on the front or
lower the rear end, or
setback, or
bigger drivers

If you move the skid move the front and rear the same amount straight back. If your not changing tracks. You may need shorter rails, bigwheels with offset axle.
 
Changing "static" attack angle doesn't necessarily get you what you want. You want to change the dynamic attack angle... what it is when you apply power. Take an Edge RMK with a Holz rear suspension in it. Looking at it sitting on the driveway it has a terribly steep attack angle. But there isn't much that I have ever tried that gets up on the snow better than a Holz rear skid.

You want to soften the front end up as much as possible. Lay the front shock down, loosen the spring or if you are brave, even remove the spring. Make it so that front part of the rear suspension collapses easy when you apply power.

sled_guy
 
Moving the front end up will make it a worse (steeper) angle.

It did make it a little steeper, but it also broadened or elongated the angle of attack. You can see it if you look at the sled from the side as it sits on the trailer. I didn't say this lessend the attack angle, I said it changed. It seems to work quite well.
 
How do I move the skids back and keep everything aligned? Its on a 99 Mountain Max 700.

Put an A/C skid in. I did this with my RX-1 and it decreased the approach angle by half. A lot of people are putting a 151" M7 skid with a 159" track. The front mounts align perfectly. All you have to do is get the center to center from your front mounts and rear mounst to equal 31-1/4".

If you go over to Totallyamaha.com and do a search you can read all about it.

J.
 
The angle of attack on mtn model sleds isn't that big of an issue anymore. Stock sleds come "rolled and dropped" when compared to older sleds when dropping and rolling the chaincase was a prerequisite to doing well in deep snow.

Now, if you have an IQr.....then you might have to do something about that. LOL.
 
What chassis is it?

I wouldn't move the skid back 4". That's a long ways. Your skis will be HEAVY and it won't float as well. I promise. I'd just put rail extensions on instead. Much easier job than measuring and drilling out new mount holes.
 
Maybe you guys can explain this to me, because I really don't see how the front suspension effects approach angle. In my world the approach angle has always been the angle of the track as it makes its accent from the ground up to the drivers. Driveshaft location, driver size, rear suspension gemoetry and rear suspension location are the only key players in regards to approach angle that I know of.



SHMO

hart5sm.jpg
 
Just did a skid slide on a 2001 Summit. We moved it back 3 inches and moved the front mount down a 1/2 inch. The rear mount moved down about 1inch. Went from 144 to 151. There is quite a bit of adjustment in the rear axle and if you move the suspension too far, you will lose your weight transfer.

B
 
SHMO you are correct. There is track angle of attack and sled angle of attack. Track is either limiter strap, suspension setback or chaincase drop and roll. Sled would be either raise or lower front or rear suspension....
 
Sled angle of attack? Come on Sliver. The next thing you guys will be telling me is that there is a "rider angle of attack or a back pack approach"...again, none of which can be adjusted with the front suspension....haha



SHMO
 
Sled angle of attack? Come on Sliver. The next thing you guys will be telling me is that there is a "rider angle of attack or a back pack approach"...again, none of which can be adjusted with the front suspension....haha



SHMO


Trailing arm tangent caster angle is what I've been adjusting to get better deep snow launch. Yes:face-icon-small-con
 
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