does it work well if straightend and flipped thanks all who gave me ideas for hp gains
attack 20 track straightend
- Thread starter snapperm7
- Start date
M
misssledderki
ACCOUNT CLOSED
Hey I did it on my M5, I had the worst time stopping with mine and once i did it, it worked awesome! very time consuming tho!!!
flip and straighten works great but trenches a little until the tips start to lay over then its one of the cheapest best tracks out there, time consuming though
F
frock
Well-known member
I've had 3 of these tracks, 2 on a king cat and 1 on my wifes M7. If you flip it to hillclimb and run it, the track will straighten on it's own. It took a couple weeks on my king cat (it has 200 hp on nitrous) and probably 3-4 weeks on the wifes M7. The braking is considerably better once they straighten and I think the paddles are much stiffer if you let it straighten on it's own instead of forcing them with heat and tools. Just my experience and 2 cents.
Cheers;
Shane
I've done this and it works great. Only problem is it weakens the lugs if you use too much heat.
S
ScubaSteveSK
Active member
Here's something I posted awhile ago on how to straighten the A20. I ride in all types of snow from steep and deep to hard trails on the praries and it works pretty well in most conditions but really shines in the deep.
1. Weld some 7"x2" or so flat steel to some vice grips
2. Heat up the curved part of the lug with a torch or heat gun
-Don't use too much heat and melt the track, will weaken it
3. Clamp and straighten
4. Use a spray bottle to cool the lug
5. Leave the vice on while it cools and start heating the next one
The trick is to position the track so that the weight of the vice grip pulls the lug in the opposite direction of the way it was curved while it cools. Probably took just under 3 hours to do my track. Found it alot easier to do when the track was off so I could work at a comfortable height on the work bench.
1. Weld some 7"x2" or so flat steel to some vice grips
2. Heat up the curved part of the lug with a torch or heat gun
-Don't use too much heat and melt the track, will weaken it
3. Clamp and straighten
4. Use a spray bottle to cool the lug
5. Leave the vice on while it cools and start heating the next one
The trick is to position the track so that the weight of the vice grip pulls the lug in the opposite direction of the way it was curved while it cools. Probably took just under 3 hours to do my track. Found it alot easier to do when the track was off so I could work at a comfortable height on the work bench.
Scubasteve
has given you good instructions.
This is exactly what I did with mine a few years ago and it worked great.
has given you good instructions.
This is exactly what I did with mine a few years ago and it worked great.
I ran a ported straightened A-20 153 on my 1000 last year.
Sucks on ice, hooks up like crazy in more set up snow, trenches slightly more in pow.
All around a good way to go, but this year I will run in PP.
I have decided that until I can afford to buy a PC, I will run the A-20 in powder position as this is the type of snow that I want the best performance possible.
I will deal with the compromise in other snow conditions.
Sucks on ice, hooks up like crazy in more set up snow, trenches slightly more in pow.
All around a good way to go, but this year I will run in PP.
I have decided that until I can afford to buy a PC, I will run the A-20 in powder position as this is the type of snow that I want the best performance possible.
I will deal with the compromise in other snow conditions.
The only thing i did that scubasteve did not say is i made two of them so you can let one cool and heat the other one i also used a small bungie cord to hold it back and a heat gun worked the best for me to heat them up pul them about 30 past sraight.It worked good for me good luck
7
76FOMOCO
Well-known member
put it on the tailgate of the truck and as the track makes a turn to go under its self warm the lugs just above the turn and the weight of the vice grips will hold the bend for you and you can clip on to the next one and start warming it. helps to have a body to rotate the track and cool the one with a rag and relocate the next one while you heat the current one.
A 20
Flip it and straight and it runs fine- stopping is not an issue if you do the lugs correctly-and maintain their angle.
We used wedges and heatweer the paddles and cooled rapidly with water- works well with quick clapms..
But go with the power claw and save yorself headaches
MD
Flip it and straight and it runs fine- stopping is not an issue if you do the lugs correctly-and maintain their angle.
We used wedges and heatweer the paddles and cooled rapidly with water- works well with quick clapms..
But go with the power claw and save yorself headaches
MD
I would recommend flip the track around first and riding it before you spend the time trying to straighten the lug. IMO flipping the track to the hill climb position is all that is needed, and you can still control it well going down steep hills.
I straightened mine and run it backwards, but it's still not very good on hardpack...spins a lot. I try not to ride hardpack much, but it would be nice if it hooked up better. I also think the camo's and powerclaws float better in almost all conditions.
John
John
I straightened mine and run it backwards, but it doesn't hook up very good on hardpack, and I think the powerclaws and camos float better in most conditions.
John
John
duplicate...
Last edited:
powerclaw
Get the powerclaw,because it seriously hooks up on eveything great..The a20 is damn right dangerous on hard pack....you will learn to deal with it,but not worth totaling sled....JMO....
Get the powerclaw,because it seriously hooks up on eveything great..The a20 is damn right dangerous on hard pack....you will learn to deal with it,but not worth totaling sled....JMO....
