Assault Shock talk

[milehighassassin]

Starting this thread for the off-season hoping to find out what will work for me. I have heard of guys sending their OEM Walker's to Carls or other places to get them re-valved. I have heard great results. My question is what the cost is. It seems if you are going to spend a few hundred dollars re-valving you would be ahead to put that money towards Floats or another shock.

I had a friend suggest that I try to put a longer shock on the Assault in an attempt to lift the front end up a little more, which would make it a little more tipsy and easier to turn, compensating for the wider stance a little bit.

Has anyone tried a longer shock?

Will the Assault shocks fit a regular RMK/Dragon? (hoping to sell mine once I make a decision on new shocks).


Thanks for any info anyone can provide.


Bottom line, I love the Assault but the shocks are just too stiff. Dragon Shocks are too soft, it seems if Polaris would have went in between they would have a winner. I have my shocks turned all the way down and even in spring riding, doing cornice drops and hitting a built jump several times the shocks were too stiff.

 

[mountainhorse]

DO NOT run longer shock... it will add considerable ski pressure to the front and throw off the general balance of the sled. I have helped people with thier sleds that have installed longer Floats etc from an IQR and got the fronts back to where they need to be... night and day difference.

You did not say what model year assault you have???

Raising the front end will also wear out the rod ends as you approach/exceed maximum angles for the ball joints/rod ends/

If you want your sled to be more maneuverable in the trees and easier to get on edge... go with a narrower front end like the stock RMK (40" wide) or the Timbersled "Chris Burandt edition" (37.5").. the Stock Assault is 43" wide.

IMO.. the Walker Evans Needle (coil spring) shocks ARE top notch shocks... Especially in the last 2 model years. you would have about $120-200 into a service/revalve per pair...But in the end, you will have a custom tailored set of shocks set up specifically for your riding style, sled and weight. Carls does good work as does Tri City Polaris (talk to Max)... TCP has helped to develop the WE shocks with Walker Evans Factory... they really know thier stuff.

If you get a set of used shocks... absolutely make sure that they were built/valved for the exact sled you have... just getting the length correct is not enough. Plus... being a used shock...you will still need to get them serviced, plus they will still not be valved just for you.

 

[milehighassassin]

I have a 2009 Assault.

I don't really understand how a longer shock will put more ski pressure down. If one shock is 12" and another is 13" and they are valved the same, shouldn't the pressure be exactly the same?

I am wanting more ski pressure. I am not saying I don't agree with you but I just don't understand the logic on longer = more pressure.

Is this the Chris Burandt edition?
http://www.timbersled.com/BarkbustersAArms.htm


Do you think a re-valve will be able to lighten up the Assault shocks?

I would like them to start where the Walker Evans Dragon shocks start.

 

[mountainhorse]

The TSP-1000 Front end kit is the "CB" edition... actually about 37.5.
It was designed to use the stock 17" RMK length shocks.

Longer shocks will cause the lower ball joint (rod end) to bind on stock or aftermarket a-arms

I don't really understand how a longer shock will put more ski pressure down. If one shock is 12" and another is 13" and they are valved the same, shouldn't the pressure be exactly the same?

I am wanting more ski pressure. I am not saying I don't agree with you but I just don't understand the logic on longer = more pressure.

A longer shock raises the front end... doing so will unweight the front of the skid...similar concept but to a larger degree than using a softer front track shock (fts) spring or sucking the limiter straps up. This places a larger percentage of the sleds weight on the skis.... that equates to higher ski pressure and more steering effort.

Think of it this way.... picture a profile shot of the sled... draw a line down the bottom of the hyfax and extend it... notice its relationship to the ground... now lift the front of the sled... what happens to that line?.... Of course this is simple description that does not take into account susension compensation and increased pre load on the rear track shock.

The "balance" of the new sleds is pretty sensitive. Ride height on the front is CRUCIAL to good handling characteristics.

Change one thing and you change the entire "system".

Not 'text book wrenching' but actual field testing results.

 

[LT]

hey...i also have a 9 assault with stock front shocks. i had them revalved last fall and they worked very well this last winter. my question: i think there are stainless steel shafts for these shocks so they wont nick. am i correct?? if so where do i get them?

 

[mountainhorse]

Nope... but Jake at IceAge mfg has improved shock shafts with better anodizing.
Drop them an email. I think they are pretty pricey.

 

[milehighassassin]

The TSP-1000 Front end kit is the "CB" edition... actually about 37.5.
It was designed to use the stock 17" RMK length shocks.

Longer shocks will cause the lower ball joint (rod end) to bind on stock or aftermarket a-arms



A longer shock raises the front end... doing so will unweight the front of the skid...similar concept but to a larger degree than using a softer front track shock (fts) spring or sucking the limiter straps up. This places a larger percentage of the sleds weight on the skis.... that equates to higher ski pressure and more steering effort.

Think of it this way.... picture a profile shot of the sled... draw a line down the bottom of the hyfax and extend it... notice its relationship to the ground... now lift the front of the sled... what happens to that line?.... Of course this is simple description that does not take into account susension compensation and increased pre load on the rear track shock.

The "balance" of the new sleds is pretty sensitive. Ride height on the front is CRUCIAL to good handling characteristics.

Change one thing and you change the entire "system".

Not 'text book wrenching' but actual field testing results.

That makes sense now I suppose. The only way to lift the front end higher would be to increase the spring rate, doing so will place more downforce on the shocks.

Not sure I had $800 in the budget for new A-Arms, but it is a thought.

I think I might look into either the re-valving or Float 2's.


LT

Who did your re-valving? Cost? How much softer were they able to get them?

 

[mountainhorse]

The only way to lift the front end higher would be to increase the spring rate

OR have the same spring rate and longer shocks... (you simply start to compress sooner with a longer shock)

Also, dont confuse ski pressure with ski lift... 2 different things... If you are lifting on steep climbs... longer front shocks or higher rate springs will not improve the situation... that "lifting" is a rear suspension issue.

 

[OnlyPolaris]

i have a 2010 rmk 800 with the stock shocks. i notice that the front end sits way lower then the dragons and assaults. How can i get the front end to sit up higher?

 

[LT]

highmileassassin....i had freddy at diamond shocks do my shocks. http://www.diamondshocks.com/prices.html check out this link. i actually had him do all 4 and he is very reasonably priced and does great work. we softened them up pretty well with the piggyback as soft as it goes. i ended up running them stiffer tho.

thanks for the help eric. ill take a look at ice age and c what i can find.

 

[milehighassassin]

highmileassassin....i had freddy at diamond shocks do my shocks. http://www.diamondshocks.com/prices.html check out this link. i actually had him do all 4 and he is very reasonably priced and does great work. we softened them up pretty well with the piggyback as soft as it goes. i ended up running them stiffer tho.

thanks for the link. I will check them out for sure. Price looks like $220 for all 4 revalved and rebuilt.

 

[deepdiver]

Shocks are 2nd to oil in personal preference so take what i say with a grain of salt. In re to Carls..I saw Jack Struthers sleds last year and none of them had Walker's on them. His Assult had coil overs...if I recall they were Fox with coils(Zero's I would guess). I didnt look at the rear shocks of his sleds...

The rear Walker is an ok shock with the proper valving adn the correct spring tension/type for rider weight.... even the Walker stainless shaft can be nicked (there around 40.00 to replace I know very well!) if you have oil leaking from the rear look close. They are an ok shock for the rear application.

Now the front walkers. How many times have you seen them fade or sag. The stock valving is for some light weight folks and you probably should use them with the sway bar. Personally I think they are bling..they look better than they work..I wasnt going to put the espense of revalving a shock that starts sagging half way through the season. I went to Axis coil overs with a remote res. Sway bars are now in the scrap bucket! The Walkers from the front will do well on my Wifes 600 as the stock coil overs, are too stiff for her.

On the West Coast give Justin or Curt a call at Fastrax and they can take care of you. If money was not an object I would consider Zbros with their Arms.

 

[milehighassassin]

Shocks are 2nd to oil in personal preference so take what i say with a grain of salt. In re to Carls..I saw Jack Struthers sleds last year and none of them had Walker's on them. His Assult had coil overs...if I recall they were Fox with coils(Zero's I would guess). I didnt look at the rear shocks of his sleds...

The rear Walker is an ok shock with the proper valving adn the correct spring tension/type for rider weight.... even the Walker stainless shaft can be nicked (there around 40.00 to replace I know very well!) if you have oil leaking from the rear look close. They are an ok shock for the rear application.

Now the front walkers. How many times have you seen them fade or sag. The stock valving is for some light weight folks and you probably should use them with the sway bar. Personally I think they are bling..they look better than they work..I wasnt going to put the espense of revalving a shock that starts sagging half way through the season. I went to Axis coil overs with a remote res. Sway bars are now in the scrap bucket! The Walkers from the front will do well on my Wifes 600 as the stock coil overs, are too stiff for her.

On the West Coast give Justin or Curt a call at Fastrax and they can take care of you. If money was not an object I would consider Zbros with their Arms.

I have never seen the Assault Walkers sag. Are you talking about the Assault or the Dragon?


Assault has no sway bar.


You mention how the old shocks are going on the wife's 600 because the stock coils are too stiff. This makes me believe you have been talking about the Dragon shocks and not the Assault shocks, because the Assault shocks are much stiffer.

 

[deepdiver]

sorry..Dragon..After looking more closely I did see you said Assult's in your thread..sorry for being a poor reader...too much multitasking!

but shouldnt make a difference. I have seen walkers on a customers sled sagging in the front as it was parked right next to mine...case to case basis I guess. Look at them warm and then look at them cold on the hill...every one I ride with that has them show e big difference from warm to cold. Using them doesnt get them to pump up either,. I am not sure why ....just an observation. They seem to fade..but then again all the people I ride with are over 220lbs!! It could be we all have too much lard in our butts!

 

[mountainhorse]

That is why they should be put in the freezer before taking the nitrogen to pressure.

WE has a table for temps/pressures for these shocks when servicing them.

For the general mom & pop consumer, the WE air shocks are good... but you will notice that they are no longer installed on the new 2011 sleds.