Are there any 7 tooth drivers available for the aro If so is there enough track clearance... IF IT WORKS IT WOULD REDUCE APROACH ANGLE ROLLING RESISTANCE. Maybe I am not the first who thought of that. 
Aro 7tooth drivers
- Thread starter powdermuncher
- Start date
The mototrax use 7 tooth and has the same diameter shaft.
Not sure its worth the effort though. I've swapped the other way and I swear the 6 tooth felt like it performed better all around. The wind drag of the 2.5 inch paddle is way worse than the resistance of bending the track around a smaller driver. Terminal velocity of a snow bike is mainly from not having enough hp to turn the paddles.
Not sure its worth the effort though. I've swapped the other way and I swear the 6 tooth felt like it performed better all around. The wind drag of the 2.5 inch paddle is way worse than the resistance of bending the track around a smaller driver. Terminal velocity of a snow bike is mainly from not having enough hp to turn the paddles.
The approach angle is what I would be looking for mainly as well as the track would move closer tho the centre of the bike. If it would reduce rolling resistance as well that would just be a bonus. the question is would the track still clear. Gearing changes would most definitely need to be made if you go from 6 to 7 tooth roughly gearing down by 12% if you dropped to the 6 tooth no wonder you noticed that.
Could you please measure the diameter of the 7 tooth drivers? thanks
Could you please measure the diameter of the 7 tooth drivers? thanks
7 tooth 2.86 drivers are 7/8” in diameter larger than 6 tooth 2.86 pitch.
Would be 7/16” closer to the frame (top) and 7/16” lower approach angle.
Just snag some pre aro drivers and press them on.
(I think you will rub on top though)
I ran a 2.75” track on the stock aro drivers with some rubbing. (Cut down 3”)
The pre ago drivers were 6 tooth also. The old ones with 2.52 tracks are the only ones I know that are 7.
Both my 14 TS kits (2.86 pitch) have 7 tooth drivers.
The 6 tooth came in 16 with the taller lug.
TS started experimenting with 6 tooth drivers in 2015, I have a set of prototype 6 tooth drivers sitting in my shop.
M5
M5
For this to work one will need to make new side-plates with a longer secondary chain == doing the old drop and roll all over again on a snow bike this time. Who has the proper equipment to do the side-plates it will also require a longer chain cover ( 3 D printer would be the easiest for a limited run )
Or just buy a CMX that have 7,s and flat approach angle,The Aro is best suited for drops , not powder performance
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Yes I know definitely looked at that and if funds would be unlimited that would make sense --right now with the Canadian peso trading at 30% less than the US dollar a cmx kit delivered here will cost almost as much as a new 850 snowmobile. The aro is paid for and works rather well after some miner mods.
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6 vs 7 tooth drivers
Changed drivers to extroverts so I could run a looser track which really helped free up horsepower. Avid will make anything you need for in my mind a very resonable price baring exchange rate.
Changed drivers to extroverts so I could run a looser track which really helped free up horsepower. Avid will make anything you need for in my mind a very resonable price baring exchange rate.
What are these miner mods u speak of?
Solid larger diameter spacer tubes in the spindle.
Modded ski skags ( going carbide as o the old one this Year)
Gear up on the counter shaft sprocket and down as much as you can on the kit that way you can remove the S bend in the primary chain the robs a substantial amount of power.
This gets my kit to be almost at the forward stop as close as possible to the bike frame. For proper balance.
Pump the TSS until the pointer on the pump is back to 0 this will still net you 1"+ movement in hard hits but keeps the geometry right for performance. Cut TSS bottom end to lower the bike out back and extend the Fork for to maximum.
2" rear set on the food pegs and bars. This all together will allow you to bliz whooped out trails in 5th wide open standing up like a bike on wheels and perform well in the powder by carrying the frond end.
Cover the top of the kit with a plastic sheet to keep snow spray of the back of the engine and Me.
Gas can mounted on the TSS frame under the fender to keep the weight close to centre.
On the bike all the standard mods.
With all these mods you can ride standing up and control the bike from the back , it is not just all driving around on the ski being pushed like most of the kits do in stock form.
Modded ski skags ( going carbide as o the old one this Year)
Gear up on the counter shaft sprocket and down as much as you can on the kit that way you can remove the S bend in the primary chain the robs a substantial amount of power.
This gets my kit to be almost at the forward stop as close as possible to the bike frame. For proper balance.
Pump the TSS until the pointer on the pump is back to 0 this will still net you 1"+ movement in hard hits but keeps the geometry right for performance. Cut TSS bottom end to lower the bike out back and extend the Fork for to maximum.
2" rear set on the food pegs and bars. This all together will allow you to bliz whooped out trails in 5th wide open standing up like a bike on wheels and perform well in the powder by carrying the frond end.
Cover the top of the kit with a plastic sheet to keep snow spray of the back of the engine and Me.
Gas can mounted on the TSS frame under the fender to keep the weight close to centre.
On the bike all the standard mods.
With all these mods you can ride standing up and control the bike from the back , it is not just all driving around on the ski being pushed like most of the kits do in stock form.
