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Are these hoods weldable

Hate to keep posting threads but after researching I am finding conflicting reports on weather or not these hoods can be plastic welded. I have a large crack by the rubber hold down latch. Is it weldable or epoxy it?
 
You can weld or glue anything back together but you can't expect it to be as strong as the original. Find out the parent material and research the many different expoxy brands 3m lord loctite permetex and so so so on. There will be some made for your specific plastic
Let's see a pic

It might be a case where you'll have to reinforce the area with a piece behind the break and rivet through both pieces
 
I've usually welded them then epoxy a aluminum plate inside. Kind of like wearing a belt and suspenders at the same time!
 
I believe at one time urethanesupply.com had a list of various types of materials that the hoods were made of, but may not include current sleds. Calling them may be fastest.

An auto body supply place might be able to suggest a good product. I know 3M has a 2 part product applied via a gun which mixes the product and hardener via a replaceable tip. The gun and product are around $100 but I dont know what it is called.

Maybe there is a tab which could be trimmed and use the trimmed piece as material for welding the crack. If that would work, maybe someone who has trashed their hood would be willing to sell pieces of it to be used as welding material.
 
Arctic cat hoods are TPO plastic, like most car fascia's, and can be welded, but it doesn't look that good when I've seen it done... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4cw2AHXKmLQ

Those patches look cool, and easy!

I use Hardman Urethane epoxy in "double bubble" packets. Scratch up the back side a bunch with a sharp knife, then just glue it all together with lots of epoxy. That's worked for cracks at 90°-ish features, where the crack wanted to stay closed fairly well and the hood could be positioned to puddle the epoxy in the cracked area for strength.

If I was doing a crack in a flat area, I might use some .040" aluminum sheet as a backer, and drill some ~1/8" holes in the aluminum to let some epoxy ooze through for a little extra bite. I guess doing the same with a aluminum shaped to fit a not flat area would make the repair even stronger, but I've not had a fix come apart on it's own yet...
 
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As long as you prep the hood properly for the 3m bumper patches, that sh!t isn't ever coming off. All you'll see is the hairline crack from the top side if you stick it together right.
 
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