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Are aluminum trailers worth a premium?

Q

qbeam

Member
I found a 2005 wells cargo 27ft v nose aluminum snowmobile trailer. The seller wants $8100. The trailer is in awesome shape and has only been used a dozen times. I have seen steel trailers for around $6000. Is the aluminum worth an extra $2000?


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I say yes, aluminum is the way to go. Lighter weight, rust resistant, looks better, easy to work with when modifying.
 
I say yes, aluminum is the way to go. Lighter weight, rust resistant, looks better, easy to work with when modifying.


Last time I checked not to many people have the ability to weld aluminum, so your statment about eaisier to modify has no logic.
You also have to remember aluminum will not rust but it will corrode away.
As far as looks I have a steel framed trailer, but looks just like the aluminum one. You do not see the frame.

I would go with steel becasue it is stronger per pound, easier to repair becasue anyone can repair steel with a regular welder, and i believe you will not see a difference in fuel mileage. Fuel mileage is more related to wind resistance than the extra 500 LBS of a steel trailer.

But if you want to spend the extra 2000 dollars on the same trailer that is up to you. I would personaly rather save that money and put it toward the sleds or accesories for the trailer. That and you can buy a whole lot of fuel for 2000 dollars if you are thinking you will save on fuel with the aluminum trailer.
 
Spend the extra money

Spend the extra money on the aluminum. I have owned both and both will get you to and from the mountain. But will never own another steel trailer. My guess is if the trailer is as in good as shape as you say....buy it and resale it.

If you don't end up buying it pm me the information so I can.
 
Depends on the tow vehicle...but in either case, I'd say Aluminum.

Had a heavy, steel, tall (6'1" + ceilings), enclosed 2/3 place.

For a 5.7L gasser, 1/2 ton; it really was too much trailer.
Both in tongue weight and in power required to pull it (that was in Denver area 5.5-11k+ feet).

Like others said, I think wind resistance is what hurts more.
But weight can also matter depending on tow vehicle.

However, if you have a turbo dzl tower and are getting a steal on a steel....I'd go for it.
 
I've had both, and as I have said before, the only steel trailer I will ever own is a boat trailer.

That being said, just being aluminum does not make it a better trailer.
I would rather have a high end steel trailer than a mid-grade alum.....any day.

I realize the whole trying to stay within the budget thing, I would rather hold off & get a great trailer when I can afford/justify it rather than buying some pissbox that will look like a float in the sh_t parade in 5 years.
 
Last time I checked not to many people have the ability to weld aluminum, so your statment about eaisier to modify has no logic.
You also have to remember aluminum will not rust but it will corrode away.
As far as looks I have a steel framed trailer, but looks just like the aluminum one. You do not see the frame.

I would go with steel becasue it is stronger per pound, easier to repair becasue anyone can repair steel with a regular welder, and i believe you will not see a difference in fuel mileage. Fuel mileage is more related to wind resistance than the extra 500 LBS of a steel trailer.

But if you want to spend the extra 2000 dollars on the same trailer that is up to you. I would personaly rather save that money and put it toward the sleds or accesories for the trailer. That and you can buy a whole lot of fuel for 2000 dollars if you are thinking you will save on fuel with the aluminum trailer.

I disagree with your argument. Aluminum IS easy to work with and can be welded at many shops or peoples garages. Steel is strong, I'll give you that, but aluminum is also strong when a trailer is built right. Look at a steel frame, its IS corroding away (and yes, you CAN see it)....and much faster than aluminum. Save that extra $2,000 on your steel trailer for frame sand blasting and repainting every couple of years, not for sleds, accesories, or fuel. Aluminum is the way to go for a snowmobile trailer.
 
My family has had our steel enclosed for over 15 years. Never refinished the frame, and it has a lot if miles on it. Still going strong. The plywood on the floor is going bad from having so many carbides run over it. I think it comes down to where you live/ride a far as the corrosive argument. We hve mosly sand idaho as far as I know.

I just ordered a trails west steel trailer. Fill lined, insulated, heater,beaver rail, 5200 lb axles, windows, etc and from what I've seen a comparably equipped featherlite woul hve been $8000-$10000 more, so in my case it wasn't worth it (IMO) But In you situation, for only 2000 more I say got for it.
 
I had an aluminum trailer for several years an mainly towed it with smaller vehicles and it worked good. I now have a diesel truck, and the weight is not an issue any more. I only have one trip on my Trails West Steel trailer, but I'm sure that I won't be painting it every 2 years as somebody claimed. I like this trailer over my other one, heavier duty axles, tires, and frame (car hauler option). It is 4' longer, well over a foot taller, and there wasn't a massive difference in fuel economy.
 
You guys are comparing heavy duty car hauler trailers to what the OP is asking about, a lightweight snowmobile trailer. I would never say that all steel trailers are bad or all aluminum trailers are good. He is looking at a $8K lightweight trailer, not a $30K heavy duty, I think he found a reasonably priced sled hauler.
 
A well built aluminum trailer won't be much lighter than a steel equivelant (and it shouldn't)
At 15yrs old the aluminum trailer can pass for barely broke in. It just lasts forever.
Welding aluminum is straight forward with the proper equipment.
We run 30' stock trailers and do all the repairs
 
A well built aluminum trailer won't be much lighter than a steel equivelant (and it shouldn't)
At 15yrs old the aluminum trailer can pass for barely broke in. It just lasts forever.
Welding aluminum is straight forward with the proper equipment.
We run 30' stock trailers and do all the repairs

I weighed my 7x27 Aluma a few weeks back... 2,300#
add say 300 for tongue weight = 2,600#
I never weight either of the steel framed that I had.
Can any one chime in with an example?
 
Several different trains of thought on this, but in my mind, worth the extra. I just picked up a new Triton 12' open deck V-nose and it weighs around 550 lbs. My old steel trailer was around 1150 saving 600lbs of tow weight. Now my two sleds AND trailer total around 1,750 (what my old trailer weight with one sled). It's to the point now that I tow the setup with my car ('09 Toyota Venza) more often than truck because I get over 16-17mpg towing through the mountains (which is more than the truck gets when not towing).

Even if your rig will handle the weight, there are curtain situation where it's safer to have less weight behind you. Towing up and down the mountain passes is possibly safer with less weight and less wear and tear on transmission, etc.

I agree with what others have posted in that hwy mpg will probably not improve much because at steady, high speeds, aerodynamics plays a higher factor. You would see a mpg improvement around town, stop and go towing, but most people don't do much of that. Corrosion resistance and higher resale are other benefits of aluminum.

To each their own, but for me, aluminum was the right choice.
 
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When we were looking for a V-Nosed trailer I too was shopping quite heavily. It seemed that most of the steel framed trailers were badly rusted on the frame and rear door area. I ended up buying an all aluminum 24' v-nose and we love it. We replaced a 12' all aluminum clam shell and can hardly tell the difference in fuel mileage. So I would say the all aluminum is well worth the $2000.00 difference >>>>.
 
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