arctic cat primary clutch bushing and roller question

[Destroyer]

I'm trying to hunt down a cord pulling issue.

How much slop if any should there be with your moveable sheeve. How close should the slider buttons be to the moveable sheeve. I seem to have a fair bit of slop when I took the spring out to inspect.

It has slop on the clutch shaft, and slop on those sliders.

Two out of three rollers shimmy and stop when you spin them fast with your finger. I don't feel any rough spots if I turn them slow and put pressure on them.

My pins are a little wore where the weight goes. Could that cause any issues?

Anything else I should be looking for?

I had my secondary apart about 200 miles ago and that bushing seemed just fine at the time.

I'll get an aligment bar and check it again. It's pulling cords on the outside of a new belt that I did break in nice for 30 miles. That was prabably the hardest thing I've ever had to do! lol.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

My pins are a little wore where the weight goes. Could that cause any issues?

What do you mean, if your saying the bolt the weight is screw into there shouldn't be any wear. If this is what you are referring to where is the wear.

 

[Destroyer]

the bolt that the weight is on yes.

 

[aamcustoms]

sounds like the set screws on the weight have come loose at one time, and wore the bolt diamater away, you must use green penetrating loc tite on those. also, if your buttons and shieve bushings are wore along with the rollers, you may as well go to cat and get a new primary, you can rebuild the with new pins, buttons and rollers (comet ones work also i was told that in the 90s there was a jag that used the same parts ?? ) i had the same problem and everybody had an idea but nobody gave me the info i needed, so heres what i did,, PUT ALL NEW MOTOR MOUNTS IN PTO SIDE AND MAG SIDE, NEW SNUBBER UNDER OIL TANK ( 06 XFIRE 700) SET THE SNUBBER UP PROPERLY, PUT 400 HARD MILES ON AND BELT LOOKED NEW!, then, i treated myself to a new primary from cat, that was the best $550.00 i ever spent, im now over 1400 hard miles and still same belt. ALSO, BEWARE OF THE PIECE OF SH-T CAT ALLIGNMENT BAR!, it is not straight!, on an 0.065 offsett it will measure that on the inside of the offsett, but on the outer ends if you measure them its more like 0.120 approx, (+ -) this is because when they plasma or lazered the bar it pulled the ends from the heat!, CAT HAS RECOGNIZED THIS PROBLEM AND IS DOOING NOT MUCH ABOUT IT, BUT I LET MY DEALER KNOW AND HE HAD 74 OF THEM ON THE SHELF AND 3 IN THE SHOP AND THEY ALL WERE WAY OFF!, so before you start blowing money, literally, lol, make shure your allignment bar is true and square, or you too will have a swollen head like i had!!

 

[WyoBoy1000]

the bolt that the weight is on yes.

where the weight rides or where it goes through the clutch. If its where the weight rides you have problems ie the weight should not move and it should never wear right there, if its the clutch, you need a new clutch because the aluminum will wear faster than the bolt.

 

[Destroyer]

the bolt is wore. The dealer they all do that after so long. I loctite the set screws in there all the time.

 

[WyoBoy1000]

If you can just replace the bolts I would try that.

 

[Destroyer]

I'm debating whether it's even worth buying just the bolts. They're at least fourty bucks and they come with a new clutch if I end up having to buy one. Warranty should replace it if it's worn out bushings and sliders no?

 

[aksnopro]

i would say yes, and also look over your spider carefully if you havnt got a new clutch from cat yet you willl shortly due to a cracked spyder. are you not holding R's? or you just overlooking your clutch?


(i bet you find a crack in it)

-Aksnopro

 

[Destroyer]

haven't found a crack in it. holds r's not to bad but is pulling belt cords way to fast. I broke a belt in good for thirty miles and at about 80 miles it started pulling cords and I wasn't even going that hard.