Apex with a high idle...

[hobbes]

I haven't touched anything in the fuel department other than change some PL box numbers, but since coming back from the latest trip, it wants to idle really high (3000 rpm or better). I did a search figuring this would be an easy fix but found nothing. Anyone?

 

[WOOD2]

Throttle cable returning all the way?

 

[glmtnapex]

How many miles are on the sled? Sometimes they really loosen-up after a certain amount of break-in. I think I had to turn my idle down a couple of times on my Apex in the first 500 miles.

Max

 

[0007]

I haven't touched anything in the fuel department other than change some PL box numbers, but since coming back from the latest trip, it wants to idle really high (3000 rpm or better). I did a search figuring this would be an easy fix but found nothing. Anyone?

Tight intake valves?
What's your plug colour like
If you have disabled tors a tight throttle cable could do it, does it change when you turn the steering?

 

[maniac mechanic]

is it boosted? if so, the throttle bodies could have blown off. that will let it get more air than it should and idle too high.

 

[hobbes]

It has a BD 28RS turbo kit on it.

The throttle is returning all the way. Just a little slack there. Perfect I would say.

From what I can see there are no intake leaks of any kind. The intercooler is
bolted to the Deltabox and all the boots are on good.

The sled has 1700 miles on it almost all boosted.

I don't see how it could have tight intake valves when it ran perfect in Cooke. Unloaded it down here and now it's got a higher idle. When it's cold it idles at 2500 and creeps up as it warms. It's -15F here right now but is supposed to warm up to the upper 20's this week, I'll keep looking for something. I changed the CO's when I bought the sled so that hasn't changed at all. I've had it out riding since I've been home too, and it runs like a raped ape, I'll do it again when it warms up a little with some heavier weight so I can ride it without smackin the limiter at 1/4 throttle and see what happens.

 

[hobbes]

Just put the smoker on it. Found a pinhole leak on the one way check valve on the line to the map sensor. Going to replace the valve and see if that's the culprit. So what do you guys think? Is this the problem? It was spewing smoke pretty good and pointed right at the engine side of the throttle body, so at first I thought that was the leak. When I reached in to move some lines to get a better look the leak "moved" too, lol, found it then.

The pinhole is on the white side of the valve right next to the diaphram, and it's not on the casting line either. Weird....

 

[hobbes]

Super glued the check valve, smoked it again and no smoke other than pushing through the turbo now, so there is no intake leak anywhere. Still idles at 2500. Pull one of my vacuum lines to one of my blowoffs and it idles down and hunts, just like I would think it would with an intake leak like that. Plug it back in and it pops right back up to 2500 rpm.

Any other suggestions? Is there a manual idle air mixture setting on these or is it all done with the computer? I'm thinking about just poppin the I/C off and setting the idle down to see what happens, I just can't figure out why it would just change like that? Thanks for all the help so far guys...

 

[#1Leaddog]

idle

Check all vacuum lines

 

[shiznitt100]

is it an 06 apex? they had a problem with throttle position sensor.

connect your stock computer harness at the left hand side of throttle bodies(disconnecting your bd box) as if it was bone stock.

do a diagnostic check through your stock cluster

the first read out you will see is your tps readings, should be around 18 and when moving the throttle you should see a gradual climb(not jumpy) all the way to 100

on my sled i had a simular problem but mine would not idle after idle it was great. did a tps check and it was stuck at 30 meaning aprox 40% throttle at an idle.

if no vac leaks and all hosing correct i would put money on the tps

 

[hobbes]

That's what I've got now. As soon as it comes off of cold/high idle it dies. And dies fast like the fuel was cut. I did check the tps with a voltage tester right at the sensor itself and it was out of spec. So I adjusted it to with spec, was told it was .5 to .9 closed and 4.0 to 5.0 at WOT. It read .6 and .38 before and now reads .87 and .41 now but the dying seems worse. Like I have to keep the rpms at 3000 to just keep it running, lower the flipper anymore than that and it dies like it's loosing fuel.

Still think the tps is bad? It seems to run through it's voltage very nicely with no erratic voltage changes... I'M STUMPED GUYS, HELP!!

PS how do you enter the diagnostics on the cluster? I'm also getting the yellow warning light right now but without a code showing? heeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeelllllllppppppp....

 

[hobbes]

Entered the diagnostic mode and here is what I found.

6 codes = 13,14,15,30,81,84
I can't figure out how to delete them though, tried through the diagnostic code 62, no luck. WTF?
I am also getting a flashing engine light now with the code 20 displayed.
Which is that the atmospheric pressure and intake pressure voltages greatly differ.
I checked these values in diagnostic modes 02 and 03 and found that 8 and 92 are displayed respectively. Why so much difference? Where are these hoses that can be kinked or clogged?

Thanks in advance guys, leaving tomorrow for a trip out west and it looks like I'll be leaving with a dead sled, not fun.

 

[obile]

to clear the codes go to diagnostic 62 clear the codes by operating the grip warmer switch down turn it off then back on. had this problem with mine as well. intake air pressure sensor got some condensation in the hose coming from the throttle bodies to the sensor. take it off and blow it out. check for any hole in the hose and reinstall. could be your problem for code 13&14.
code 15 is the tps. disconnect the fuel controller and reconnect back to stock. fuel controller will give false readings on the gauge when in the circuit.go to diagnostic mode one. fully closed the tps should read between 15 and 18 run the throttle slowly the value should go smooth up to 95 to 100 any where in this range is acceptable.you might have th adjust the tps to see if you can get these numbers as you said you did move the tps. also dialectric grease all the connectors to these sensors moisture messes them up.
code 30 is dropped oil pressure. did you tip or roll the sled while still running? if so this code will show on the gauge then go away when uprighted and restarted with oil pressure. the code will remain in memory until erased.
81 is grip warmer. any grip warmer probs in the past?
84 is the tors.bypass that p.o.s and install tether.
hope this helps!!

 

[hobbes]

Thanks obile!

I believe I've got the problem down to a faulty map sensor. I'm reading the correct voltage in (5vdc on the blue wire) but only 2.8 or 2.9 coming out with the key on engine off. This could be my problem with the idle too. I can clear the code 20 out but after running it for a bit it comes back. This was all done with the PL box unhooked. Run's stoopid rich at idle, runs at high idle but when it comes off it just dies. Next step, new map sensor and give it a whirl. Anyone else with these kinds of problems?

 

[shiznitt100]

i still do not think that is your problem, i still think it is the tps. go back into dag mode, setting i think 01 is tps read it aith stock computer plugged in and with the throttle closed it should read 16-18 and full throttle should be 95-100.
i do not think by hooking the volt meter up will give you a sensitive reading that the unit requires, like mentioned above mine would idle on cold start up as soon as my mpi fuel controller would start working (10-15 sec delay for stock computer to controll cold start and enrichening) it would die. i had to run above 3000 rpm to get it out of the bush and was that a treat, i think my back is still broken.
but i do believe that is your problem.
even if you had a pin hole in your map sensor hose it would still run but it would think you were at different altitude causing more fuel or less depending on how bad it was leaking. my sled runs with the hose disconnected and runs quite well at idle, it did not die with disconnected.
hope this helps ya out, feel free to give me a call it might be easier 403-829-3914 colin