Apex code 30
- Thread starter RX-1MT
- Start date
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EZmoney
Well-known member
If you had the sled running and it didn't shut off on you because of the low oil pressure, clear the the code and you will be just fine. Some times you want to poor some oil down the crank case hose and roll the motor over by had and let it swallow it up to get some fluids in there so its not dry on the initial start up. 
I am sure you checked but is the sensor plugged in all the way.
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EZmoney
Well-known member
Ya... poor some oil down the crank case breather hose, a little at a time then turn the clutch over by hand.Do that a four or five times and it will go. Its like they air lock.A freind even had to do that on the hill once when his Apex ran up side down after a roll, and it pulled code 30 and shut down.Im sure that will work for ya.
This is how I primed my oil pump on a new engine. Pour a few ozs of oil down the valve cover hole. Then take a suction gun and attach it to your oil return line. Pull hard on the suction gun until oil flows and ther are no more air bubbles. Your oil pump is primed. Check to make sure by looking down the valve cover hole to see oil flow when you start it.
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Extreme-One
Well-known member
Like others have said... make sure you prime your oil pump. There's a Apex at the local dealer ship that just got the motor rebuilt for that very issue. The guy rolled his sled and the oil pump lost it's prime...
if you just put a block of wood 12"-16" or something under the right ski, and raise the oil tank above the engine a for a few hours it will prime itself. I dont think you can just reset a code 30, it will reapear untill you have made 3 revolutions to the motor after resetting. You have to reset it then crank it, the recheck to see if it cleared. I always pulled the line to my turbo to make sure I had good oil pressure, and let it piss in a cup.
All Apex, RX1, Nytro have the same system
It's actually a 2 rotor oil pump
1) suck's oil out of the tank and pump's it through the engine
2) just pushes oil back to the tank
So if the oil tank always has oil in it it mean's the pump 0 ring and pump are prolly good, if the oil end's up in the motor but wont pump it back you are probably taking the motor out again
The lifting the RH ski is important when refilling the tank at any time
You need to have the tank up hill from the hose and pump
If it has an airlock just forcing some oil from the tank through the pump should fix it, a little pressure in the tank should push the air out, dont plug the crank vent as you just want to push oil into the cases, Actually vacuum on the crank vent would do the same thing, adding oil to the crankcase will not displace the air in the circulation/pressure side of the pump
The factory grease pack's the pump, if you have the engine apart make sure you do it too
It's actually a 2 rotor oil pump
1) suck's oil out of the tank and pump's it through the engine
2) just pushes oil back to the tank
So if the oil tank always has oil in it it mean's the pump 0 ring and pump are prolly good, if the oil end's up in the motor but wont pump it back you are probably taking the motor out again
The lifting the RH ski is important when refilling the tank at any time
You need to have the tank up hill from the hose and pump
If it has an airlock just forcing some oil from the tank through the pump should fix it, a little pressure in the tank should push the air out, dont plug the crank vent as you just want to push oil into the cases, Actually vacuum on the crank vent would do the same thing, adding oil to the crankcase will not displace the air in the circulation/pressure side of the pump
The factory grease pack's the pump, if you have the engine apart make sure you do it too
0007
You seem to know a lot about the apex. I am still learning about them and was wondering when you change the oil do you have to worry about priming the oil pump? And if you are in the hills and have rolled your sled and a code 30 appears and there is no air to press. the system what do you do?
You seem to know a lot about the apex. I am still learning about them and was wondering when you change the oil do you have to worry about priming the oil pump? And if you are in the hills and have rolled your sled and a code 30 appears and there is no air to press. the system what do you do?
Got in pumping primed the oil pressure sending switch and blew some air in the oil tank while it was running and it starting taking the oil out of the take as far as what a person should do in the hill I think it is a really good idea to run a tether on them to shut down when you are separated.
Again guys thanks for all the help and info
Happy Holidays and good riding!!!!!!!!!
Again guys thanks for all the help and info
Happy Holidays and good riding!!!!!!!!!
Code 30 but noticed coolant in oil.
This past weekend I slowly tipped my 2007 stock Apex over and it was running upside down on it's right side (rolled over on its right side). It kept running for about 5-10 seconds before i could get to the shut-off (going to get the tether now!). I also notice a small bit of coolant (ounce or 2 drip) into the snow When I flipped it over and started it again I got code 30 and the engine ran for 5-10 seconds before shutting off. I had a weird shut-down a few days ago but re-started and all was good (didn't notice that code). This time I waited for a while and tried starting it again. Still code 30. The oil tank appeared really (went in with it between low and full and now it was way up the dipstick. I decided to get my buddy to town me out rather than risk wrecking the sled.
Tonight I got to look at it. Everything in this post made sense and I was going to try tipping the sled on its left side and blowing into the tank using a piece of hose and a rubber stopper to see if I could pressurize it a bit and prime the oil pump. When I opened the tank I noticed a creamy liquid in the tank. I think it's coolant. I leveled it and checked the coolant reservoir and it looks full.
The apex is old (2007) but almost brand new with 600 km on it. I bought it three weeks ago with 400km. It's not just a new engine this thing is brand new (dry cracked seals?). I changed the oil and filter (what a hassle) right when I got it, and before I used it and I could tell I was the first one into the engine compartment. Also changed drive chain oil (irrelevant) but didn't change the coolant. Could the coolant have overheated and gone into the oil. It was a warm day but I wasn't having any overheating issues.
I think i'm going to bring it into the dealer but I wanted to ask on here first to see if anybody has any ideas.
Thanks!
This past weekend I slowly tipped my 2007 stock Apex over and it was running upside down on it's right side (rolled over on its right side). It kept running for about 5-10 seconds before i could get to the shut-off (going to get the tether now!). I also notice a small bit of coolant (ounce or 2 drip) into the snow When I flipped it over and started it again I got code 30 and the engine ran for 5-10 seconds before shutting off. I had a weird shut-down a few days ago but re-started and all was good (didn't notice that code). This time I waited for a while and tried starting it again. Still code 30. The oil tank appeared really (went in with it between low and full and now it was way up the dipstick. I decided to get my buddy to town me out rather than risk wrecking the sled.
Tonight I got to look at it. Everything in this post made sense and I was going to try tipping the sled on its left side and blowing into the tank using a piece of hose and a rubber stopper to see if I could pressurize it a bit and prime the oil pump. When I opened the tank I noticed a creamy liquid in the tank. I think it's coolant. I leveled it and checked the coolant reservoir and it looks full.
The apex is old (2007) but almost brand new with 600 km on it. I bought it three weeks ago with 400km. It's not just a new engine this thing is brand new (dry cracked seals?). I changed the oil and filter (what a hassle) right when I got it, and before I used it and I could tell I was the first one into the engine compartment. Also changed drive chain oil (irrelevant) but didn't change the coolant. Could the coolant have overheated and gone into the oil. It was a warm day but I wasn't having any overheating issues.
I think i'm going to bring it into the dealer but I wanted to ask on here first to see if anybody has any ideas.
Thanks!
30
if you just installed the engine because the last one went down check the filter in the bottom of the oil tank. not the bottom of the motor the oil tank.. it can be full of crap and starve the motor.. julio
if you just installed the engine because the last one went down check the filter in the bottom of the oil tank. not the bottom of the motor the oil tank.. it can be full of crap and starve the motor.. julio
was the oil good when you ioriginally drained it ? is this thing stock ? creamy oil does mean water contamination but if you loaded the intake with snow by towing it it is possible to get water in the crankcase vent. that or it got hot (you would have gotten lights on the dash) and need to put a head gasket in it..julio
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In case anyone is interested:
The problem I had was just the prime. The creamy liquid in the oil was just condensation. I re-gained prime in the oil pump by tipping the sled on its left side. I then used a piece of garden hose with duct tape and foam on one end. The tape and foam makes a decent seal with the dipstick hole on the oil tank. I blew into the hose to pressurise the tank a bit and pushed the oil back into the engine. I then added about 300 ml of oil into the crank and started up and ran for 20 minutes no problem. The oil tank got warm and the oil was clearly circulating through the engine.
I'm not sure if it was just the tipping, the pressurising in the oil tank or just adding the oil to the crank but the sled it working no problem. I now carry this little pise of hose and tape in my sled just in case.
This summer i will be putting in a rollover valve and teather.....
The problem I had was just the prime. The creamy liquid in the oil was just condensation. I re-gained prime in the oil pump by tipping the sled on its left side. I then used a piece of garden hose with duct tape and foam on one end. The tape and foam makes a decent seal with the dipstick hole on the oil tank. I blew into the hose to pressurise the tank a bit and pushed the oil back into the engine. I then added about 300 ml of oil into the crank and started up and ran for 20 minutes no problem. The oil tank got warm and the oil was clearly circulating through the engine.
I'm not sure if it was just the tipping, the pressurising in the oil tank or just adding the oil to the crank but the sled it working no problem. I now carry this little pise of hose and tape in my sled just in case.
This summer i will be putting in a rollover valve and teather.....
Thanks Julio, The oil was new, i had just changed it but had about 2 days of good riding on the new oil before the rollover. I defintly loaded the intake (and myself ) with snow when towing it out. That may be how the water got in there. Eitherway I'm happy I didn't have to bring it to the dealer or be dealing with something worse and expensive.
oil
typically if you are on the hill and this happens just tipping the sled the other way and waiting 15 does the trick. the oil being warm helps. best is to get a tether with rollover valve... they make a huge mess not to mention being short a quart of oil after....julio
typically if you are on the hill and this happens just tipping the sled the other way and waiting 15 does the trick. the oil being warm helps. best is to get a tether with rollover valve... they make a huge mess not to mention being short a quart of oil after....julio
