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Anyone running the camo 3.2?

Camo 3.2

One of our shop techs put it on his sled, and went back to the stock series 7 on his Axys after a few rides. Didn't think it performed any better, and trenched worse.
 
I wouldn't blame that on the track necessarily, but more that it probably only has 1/8" clearance to the tunnel/bulkhead which is just way too tight to get proper airflow/snowflow through the tunnel.
 
No tunnel clearance when a big chunk of ice just forms on the front. This is a pic of my 3". Wonder if the 2.6 just does the same thing.

20151227_124545_zpsbuqkv6h8.jpg
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Great Photo...

This is the reason I'd prefer the SKS in the same model... Front cooler doesn't allow this to happen... the weight penalty is only there in the heated shop IMO... because on the hill the ice block that forms weighs more than the additional aluminum of the cooler compared to the close off plate a couple of hoses and coolant.

Focusing on "showroom weight", IMO, is good for selling and bragging, but not much for on the hill.

On top of the weight of the ice... the drag on the engine and clutches is increased.. AKA "Parasitic loss".

One option, if you have the track out and fuel tank out is to put a sheet of PTFE, say 1/32" , full tunnel width, from the close-off-plate exit, around the roll of the tunnel (front), and back to where the coolers start.... even up the middle of the tunnel between the coolers would be a great idea.



.
 
I might do that since I will have the track off to install the 3" powerclaw. Guess I'll do some searching on where to find the PTFE. How do you attach, just rivet it on?
 
Large head rivets... properly sized for thickness of material and tunnel/close off.

Teflon sheet (PTFE) go with .030 or .040" thick ... You can get a 24" x 3" piece for a great price and have enough to do two sleds... (tunnel is approx 15" wide)
http://www.eplastics.com/ptfe_sheet (good prices)

I may have some pics... If I can dig them up... I'll post them.
 
I might do that since I will have the track off to install the 3" powerclaw. Guess I'll do some searching on where to find the PTFE. How do you attach, just rivet it on?

The tunnel on my old pro had a riveted plastic insert.
The large head 3/16" bare aluminum rivet heads built up quite a bit of ice.
Almost worse than the bare aluminum.
I think painted 1/8" standard head stainless rivets would be sufficient and help with ice buildup.
 
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Great Photo...

This is the reason I'd prefer the SKS in the same model... Front cooler doesn't allow this to happen... the weight penalty is only there in the heated shop IMO... because on the hill the ice block that forms weighs more than the additional aluminum of the cooler compared to the close off plate a couple of hoses and coolant.

Focusing on "showroom weight", IMO, is good for selling and bragging, but not much for on the hill.

On top of the weight of the ice... the drag on the engine and clutches is increased.. AKA "Parasitic loss".

One option, if you have the track out and fuel tank out is to put a sheet of PTFE, say 1/32" , full tunnel width, from the close-off-plate exit, around the roll of the tunnel (front), and back to where the coolers start.... even up the middle of the tunnel between the coolers would be a great idea.



.

The front cooler is good and bad........

We just got back from out west and a buddy has the front cooler on his 2015 Pro. He went and pulled a sidehill, grabbed a rock under the snow and carried up and around right into the cooler. Bam!! into the cooler and cracked it! No coolant and had to pull it back to town.
 
Great Photo...

This is the reason I'd prefer the SKS in the same model... Front cooler doesn't allow this to happen... the weight penalty is only there in the heated shop IMO... because on the hill the ice block that forms weighs more than the additional aluminum of the cooler compared to the close off plate a couple of hoses and coolant.

Focusing on "showroom weight", IMO, is good for selling and bragging, but not much for on the hill.

On top of the weight of the ice... the drag on the engine and clutches is increased.. AKA "Parasitic loss".

One option, if you have the track out and fuel tank out is to put a sheet of PTFE, say 1/32" , full tunnel width, from the close-off-plate exit, around the roll of the tunnel (front), and back to where the coolers start.... even up the middle of the tunnel between the coolers would be a great idea.



.

I hear what your saying...

Here is my experience
I rode my axys pro2.6 side by side/ back to back with a SKS axys.
I can not believe how different these sleds felt.
my pro was light and extremely nimble and the sled feels really light compared to the sks. The sks felt very planted, much heavier, did not transfer weight nearly as much.
I then did some research and found out the sks is 40-45# heavier in dry weight than a pro axys! That is huge and that is the only reason I could see why the sled felt so much different. I would say the sks felt alot like the 2011-15 pro's feel.
As far as the Ice on the front my 2.6 has not had that build up and even if it does that ice can only weight 3# or so?

Just my experience, but if you dont think the dry weight makes a difference go ride something 40+# heavier or lighter side by side and tell me what you feel.

My personal feeling/experience (take it for that) I would not go to a sks it's totally different.
 
I hear what your saying...



Here is my experience

I rode my axys pro2.6 side by side/ back to back with a SKS axys.

I can not believe how different these sleds felt.

my pro was light and extremely nimble and the sled feels really light compared to the sks. The sks felt very planted, much heavier, did not transfer weight nearly as much.

I then did some research and found out the sks is 40-45# heavier in dry weight than a pro axys! That is huge and that is the only reason I could see why the sled felt so much different. I would say the sks felt alot like the 2011-15 pro's feel.

As far as the Ice on the front my 2.6 has not had that build up and even if it does that ice can only weight 3# or so?



Just my experience, but if you dont think the dry weight makes a difference go ride something 40+# heavier or lighter side by side and tell me what you feel.



My personal feeling/experience (take it for that) I would not go to a sks it's totally different.


Electric start.
Suspension setup.

There is your differences.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Electric start.
Suspension setup.

There is your differences.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I agree on Starter but there also is overstructure, belt drive, bogie wheels, snow flap, front cooler, apparently that all adds up to about 40+#.

Suspensions were set at stock settings both new sleds.

that weight made a huge difference in how it handled thats what I guess I was saying.

I know alot of people like to say dry weight is just hype but that days ride and all I could find in the difference of sleds was the dry weight difference, it made a believer out of me.

Again that was my experience not wanting to shape anyone elses feelings, I'd say if your considering between the two you should try them both and see what you think.
 
Keep in mind you were able to snowcheck an SKS without electric start. The in season SKS comes standard with electric start.
 
I agree on Starter but there also is overstructure, belt drive, bogie wheels, snow flap, front cooler, apparently that all adds up to about 40+#.

Suspensions were set at stock settings both new sleds.

that weight made a huge difference in how it handled thats what I guess I was saying.

I know alot of people like to say dry weight is just hype but that days ride and all I could find in the difference of sleds was the dry weight difference, it made a believer out of me.

Again that was my experience not wanting to shape anyone elses feelings, I'd say if your considering between the two you should try them both and see what you think.

Did the pro axys have piggyback shocks?
The mono-tube shocks do not react exactly the same.
Did you measure the spring lengths?

Based on polaris's consistency with tps settings i'm gonna say it would be hard to have identical suspension setup.

I don't care about the sks and I think the front cooler is a liability.

However I've experienced sleds that are nearly unridable completely transform with minor changes of spring preload.
It also seems even more critical with pro/axys holz copy rear skids.

Handling comparisons need alot of measured equity. :)

Also there is the in dwelling human nature of purchase justification.
i ride a 163x3 and it handles great. But I tweaked it a lot to get it that way.
 
Large head rivets... properly sized for thickness of material and tunnel/close off.

Teflon sheet (PTFE) go with .030 or .040" thick ... You can get a 24" x 3" piece for a great price and have enough to do two sleds... (tunnel is approx 15" wide)
http://www.eplastics.com/ptfe_sheet (good prices)

I may have some pics... If I can dig them up... I'll post them.

For what it is worth; Teflon is substantially heavier and more porous than UHMW or HDPE (same family of plastic as the Hypax and Skis are made from, the difference is UHMW is Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyethylene {the most dense}, HDPE is High Density Polyethylene . One can get the cheap (typically Blue) roll up sleds (HDPE) for about $5 at any grocery or hardware store during the winter months in the northern latitudes. And in my opinion a better performing choice and easier to source, sliding friction coefficient is nearly the same, and abrasion resistance is markedly higher than teflon.
 
I've used them interchangeably for this type of thing. (UHMW and PTFE).

I've had difficulty finding the width and length I want in UHMW for the thinner material (1/32-1/16")...

I've seen the roll up childs-sleds... but those were about 3/16" thick and were generally HDPE or other.


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