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Anyone having exhaust valve codes on the axys

pappabruce

Member
Lifetime Membership
Had an exhaust valve code yesterday, something about the acuator motor not in proper position, couldn't read the whole thing as it died and wouldn't restart. So I towed it home pulled it the shop and it fired back up with a hiccup but stayed running and ran good in the shop with no codes present anymore. Haven't had back on the snow yet. Just wondering if anyone else has seen this? Is it from the turbo or is it some factory malfunction. Any input would be great. Thanks guys.
 
Kinda sounds like one or both of the power valves are sticking. Might be worth checking before you head back out.
How many miles?
What turbo are you running?
Polaris oil?
 
Clean them, you will be surprised how gunked up they are and causing them to stick.

AK, have you seen them get all that dirty with these new "self cleaning" valves? I realize they are not going to be 100% self cleaning but was hoping to get a season in between. I hope they're not that crappy of design that they need cleaning already, I only have 100 miles and almost 2 tanks of fuel through it, but I'll check them out. My dealer claims I need to have the power valve motor recalibrated from digital wrench after it throws the code, so Friday they are going to do that under warranty for me and see if it has something more wrong causing the issue.
 
Just copied my post over from the axys forum.

520335-3 and the light came on half way through my ride. not letting the sled over 6500rpm. I limped it home put it in the shop and the next morning it fired up with no codes. I will re check the plugs for the power valves again and grease them along with the relay mentioned above. Should I get a capacitor coming from my dealer? I don't want to screw over another ride.

Sled has 600 miles on it and 500 miles with a turbo. My tps was out and I had idle issues also. I'm getting frustrated with the axys and these little issues. I don't mind self inflicted issues as a result from modification but these ones bother me.

My closest and best dealer is 3 hrs away so any other tips you guys have would be appreciated.
 
AK, have you seen them get all that dirty with these new "self cleaning" valves? I realize they are not going to be 100% self cleaning but was hoping to get a season in between. I hope they're not that crappy of design that they need cleaning already, I only have 100 miles and almost 2 tanks of fuel through it, but I'll check them out. My dealer claims I need to have the power valve motor recalibrated from digital wrench after it throws the code, so Friday they are going to do that under warranty for me and see if it has something more wrong causing the issue.

IQRIDR Posted that his were gross at 850 miles and was throwing codes for valve positions not reached
 
Good luck getting a compacitor they are on back order till February, I have also seen a few where the wires rubbed thru on the clutch cover. I just bought the last capacitor in the U.S. this morning. (should be warranty, but im not waiting a month to ride)
 
I had the same issue. Ended up being corrosion on connectors causing bad connections and random codes.

Super frustrating. I thought I was in for a hell of a tow out when it happened, but managed to get it to start and run in limp mode.
 
I'm only at about 50 Miles, and I noticed that my belly pan is already full of black oil from the vent hose off the ex valves. I realize that this is partially due to the first tank of gas being run at 40:1 premix, but it seems excessive. Have any of you noticed this when you first broke in your Axys as well? Did you clean the ex valves after break in? Turbo goes on Friday, and want to make sure I don't have any issues I should be concerned about (warranty) before then.
 
I found these wires going down to acuator motor were pulled so tight they had the tinyest spot rubbed through and grounding to the bracket for the gps globe. Haven't rode it yet since discovering it, hopping it didn't fry something else.

image.jpg
 
Take the black bag above the clutch cover off. Take all the electrical connections apart and dry them out. Then put dielectric grease in them. Moisture is getting in them and causing corrosion and bad contacts.
 
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