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Anyone cutting their 2" track outside lugs for that "Convex feel" ?

I did

I cut the outer paddles diagonally with a razor knife from the inside top corner to the buldge at the base of the outer paddle. The outer edge of the paddle is almost gone but still has enough meat to put an ice screw in it if you wanted. I have a turbo apex I use when I want to climb straight up so I don't care if I lost some propulsion from less paddle. It makes the bike feel more like a bike and more nimble. I probably can't climb as high but it still never gets stuck so I just have to pick funner lines to get there....

I think I posted pictures of it here last spring.
 
I have the new track but I'm curious what the best tool to cut the track easily would be?
Back side of a saws all blade + wd 40 or cutting oil has given me great success in years past on sled tracks.


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I'm not going to be riding the bike in super deep or trying to climb anything with it anyway .. thats why I have a T3 ...

I'll probably make the cuts once I finish the bike build and ride it a few times unmolested

Heated razor blade / box cutter should do the trick !

any other reports / pics welcome!
 
Some pretty good ideas , cut an aluminum or steel template and clamp it to the lugs . I used an electric turkey knife dipping it in used oil . The trick is to let the knife do the cutting instead of pushing it , it'll cut like butter .

IMG_20140206_144302_259 (576x1024).jpg
 
Since I don't have a 2.5 inch track to eyeball - does someone have the dimensions. I think there will be a lot of 2.0 tracks up for sale. Might as well try the DYI forst to see if it works......
 
can you then bolt a square of reinforced rubber, aluminum or steel to the center lugs to raise their height to 2.5-3 inches? don't know if that's possible or smart, but you'd regain the lost surface area
 
Use a hot knife or tire grooving iron, it will be the easiest. Also the sun is ur friend, if can let the sun shine on the track 30min before u cut it will make it much easier.

GS6
 
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I trimmed my convex track with a sharp leatherman pocket knife, sliced through very easy, only had a little to take off the edges of the center paddle.(to clear shock linkage bracket)

If you are going to trim your track, I suggest only do a slight trim. The actual convex track isn't all that angled. It maintains a good portion of it's paddle size. I've seen picks of people really hack up their track. I personally wouldn't do it at all, but if you are set on doing it, tread lightly.
 
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My initial question for this would be wouldn't you loose some carving traction when you are on edge?
 
My initial question for this would be wouldn't you loose some carving traction when you are on edge?

Edge ? meaning tapered ? If so it actually helps you have more control in the carve , a track that can hold kold kutter screws is the ticket . The track is way more aggressive for carving and is less likely to wash out at high speeds . A lot easier to come out of a carve using the track instead of the ski . For those that enjoy a good ride without being aggressive there is no need .

Think dirt bike , the wheel has very little purpose , so should the ski .
 
Edge ? meaning tapered ? If so it actually helps you have more control in the carve , a track that can hold kold kutter screws is the ticket . The track is way more aggressive for carving and is less likely to wash out at high speeds . A lot easier to come out of a carve using the track instead of the ski . For those that enjoy a good ride without being aggressive there is no need .

Think dirt bike , the wheel has very little purpose , so should the ski .


I'm not talking about being on one ski.
Ignore the skis here. :)


When the sled is carving and the track is up on it's edge, wouldn't less paddle out on that edge of the track give less traction at that point?
 
I'm not talking about being on one ski.
Ignore the skis here. :)


When the sled is carving and the track is up on it's edge, wouldn't less paddle out on that edge of the track give less traction at that point?

Putting it that way I'd say it would have to , to many variables . For me a nimble machine is more important and there is a definite difference between a curved and a straight lug . Easy fix there is a longer track if you can turn it .
 
I guess I'd have to ride a bike with a convex track and the flexi suspension to see how much it helps.
Coming from a guy with only a handful of rides on my 2013 ST kit with most of them being trail miles chasing my kids around the mountain, I have no issue with the bike wanting to come back to center when I'm leaning it into a turn unless I'm going real slow or the snow is rock hard.
First time I rode the bike was also my first Timbersled ride and I felt the bike not want to lean over. But after a couple hours on it that feeling went away.
I'd love a new 2.5 convex flex arm etc but I wouldn't cut down my existing track at the expense of any powder traction.
 
If you mostly ride trail a Hawk track is the best , much harder compound for aggressive bite in hardback and even more round profile for the ultimate bike feel on hard pack.
It does give up some deep snow performance due to the hard paddles.
 
After riding a buddy's new convex track on a similar bike, I immediately felt the difference in turn-in and overall handling/cornering. I'm on a '15 LT and have had a few kits on 3 different bikes.
So I lightly trimmed just the outermost nub on the outside paddles, about 3/8 to ease the sharp corner. You can feel it just standing in your garage and pulling on the bike. In powder it makes no difference but on hard pack it's a slight improvement right at the edge where it counts, when you're trying to pull the bike off a straight line. Worth it to lessen the crappy trail handling we all merely tolerate.
I'll post a pic when I get time.
 
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