Any power commander V users here?

[Norma Stitz]

Setting it up on my husky that will see snow bike use next year. It's a bit confusing and the mfg isn't super helpful with the manual.

My base map that fits my engine didn't come with auto tune tables for target AFR. So, I can't use the auto tune at all without any data in those cells.

Now, I can guess as to what it wants, but without dyno time I'm not sure the exact AFR targets to put in.

Also, the bike runs noticeably better in lower ranges on the street after install both in base map mode and auto tune mode, but it's much louder and pipey sounding than it was. Is this normal? I'm not looking to blow up my new bike as you might have guessed. Thanks.

 

[Norma Stitz]

I used this table to set my target AFR, however I left the columns for 0%,2%, and 5% at zero so the auto tune would not be active on those areas, as per dyno jets recommendation. Apparently the single thumpers suck air more than multi jug bikes so the O2 sniffer gets confused at lower throttles. Makes sense and since it runs well down low with the base map I don't think it need auto tune but we will see if this holds true at altitude which is why I got the auto tune anyway. It may be a tad rich up there but that shouldn't matter at low throttles i think.

What's interesting is that the richest part of the table is only 13.2:1 and I've seen some tables that show a lot more fuel than that. Some even start at 13.2 and get down to 10:1 or more. So, I'm a bit lost

 

[portgrinder]

Doing mods without a dyno is pretty much useless. unless you like wasting time and money.

 

[Norma Stitz]

Doing mods without a dyno is pretty much useless. unless you like wasting time and money.

I don't actually, but I'm pretty good at it nonetheless.

 

[DynojetResearch]

Setting it up on my husky that will see snow bike use next year. It's a bit confusing and the mfg isn't super helpful with the manual.

My base map that fits my engine didn't come with auto tune tables for target AFR. So, I can't use the auto tune at all without any data in those cells.

Now, I can guess as to what it wants, but without dyno time I'm not sure the exact AFR targets to put in.

Also, the bike runs noticeably better in lower ranges on the street after install both in base map mode and auto tune mode, but it's much louder and pipey sounding than it was. Is this normal? I'm not looking to blow up my new bike as you might have guessed. Thanks.

What Husky model bike are you setting up? I can try to dig up a target AFR table for you.
You have a great start on your target AFR image - and the recommendation to leave zeroes in the 0-5% columns is spot on.
In general , the actual value that is in the table is somewhat irrelevant if you are comparing it to another bike/engine/vehicle. Things such as O2 bung location, sensor condition/orientation, fuel grade, engine harmonics, etc. have massive effects on what number actually ends up in that table for a target. For example, in the 2-stroke world, inefficient pipe scavenging at low loads lets us insert a 15.0:1 for a target, and then an 11.8:1 at WOT. Or, on a parallel twin 4-stroke model, we might enter 13.2:1 across the board. In both cases, we've identified that the XX.X value is fitting for that particular machine, and the reading number on the gauge is not important, but the condition inside the engine to be safe and produce power is what does matter.

If your engine is sounding louder, it might be more in the happy place where it wants to be allowing for solid pipe temps and is running more efficiently. OR - it may be slightly on the lean side (if you're subtracting too much fuel). If the bike pops and barks only on decel, use the bottom left chunk of the map (0-2% TP, 3000RPM+) to add fuel and cram in some ignition timing (if your PCV is equipped with fuel + ignition control). This granularity and precision available in the PCV is what makes it a premier choice for your bike.
Also - ensure that the PCV is calibrated to the TPS on your bike. To do so, Start your bike, Access Power Commander tools > Calibrate > Throttle Position. Click reset, and then wick the throttle wide open for a split second. Click OK. Then turn off the bike. This will record the high and low TPS voltage values for the sensor on your bike, and many users do forget to perform this step.

Have fun riding!!

~T.J.

 

[Norma Stitz]

What Husky model bike are you setting up? I can try to dig up a target AFR table for you.
You have a great start on your target AFR image - and the recommendation to leave zeroes in the 0-5% columns is spot on.
In general , the actual value that is in the table is somewhat irrelevant if you are comparing it to another bike/engine/vehicle. Things such as O2 bung location, sensor condition/orientation, fuel grade, engine harmonics, etc. have massive effects on what number actually ends up in that table for a target. For example, in the 2-stroke world, inefficient pipe scavenging at low loads lets us insert a 15.0:1 for a target, and then an 11.8:1 at WOT. Or, on a parallel twin 4-stroke model, we might enter 13.2:1 across the board. In both cases, we've identified that the XX.X value is fitting for that particular machine, and the reading number on the gauge is not important, but the condition inside the engine to be safe and produce power is what does matter.

If your engine is sounding louder, it might be more in the happy place where it wants to be allowing for solid pipe temps and is running more efficiently. OR - it may be slightly on the lean side (if you're subtracting too much fuel). If the bike pops and barks only on decel, use the bottom left chunk of the map (0-2% TP, 3000RPM+) to add fuel and cram in some ignition timing (if your PCV is equipped with fuel + ignition control). This granularity and precision available in the PCV is what makes it a premier choice for your bike.
Also - ensure that the PCV is calibrated to the TPS on your bike. To do so, Start your bike, Access Power Commander tools > Calibrate > Throttle Position. Click reset, and then wick the throttle wide open for a split second. Click OK. Then turn off the bike. This will record the high and low TPS voltage values for the sensor on your bike, and many users do forget to perform this step.

Have fun riding!!

~T.J.

This is helpful thanks! The bike is a 2012 SMR511 and yes I did the software TPS reset in the PC program. The O2 sensor is new, supplied with the auto tune module. I removed the stock bung in the head pipe and welded in the provided bung figuring it was in that spot for a reason. Fuel I'm working with is pump 92octane which probably has 10%booze added around here. I'd like to run clear gas but I don't have a convenient source and I also hesitate to become special fuel dependent also.
I have been running the "power up kit stock air filter" map so far and it does run well, slight popping on decel but nothing that sounds out of place. The louder note sounds good and healthy, but just interesting that it sounds so much different. I know my diesels take on a whole new sound with tuning so it didn't surprise me overly so.
As far as "cramming in some fuel and ignition timing" into the lower left chunk of tables, I get that but I've also seen the dyno jet video explaining that to cure popping you can, in at lower left area, either add fuel, take away fuel, add timing, or subtract timing. So, this is a bit over my pay grade because that is a lot of opposing variables to navigate!

Despite the issues, I love the unit and it's great to have the flexibility to adjust all these things! If I need to pay for a specialist to dyno it then I can go that route, but yes if you could send a AFR table that you think would be applicable to my bike then I would be keen to see it, thanks.

I did email tech at dyno jet explaining this and they sent a map over through email, however it appears to be one of the maps I've already downloaded that doesn't have the AFR table, so I'm not sure why they sent that.

 

[Norma Stitz]

Hi dyno. You mentioned that you could send me an AFR table that I can compare to what I've devised for my smr511. I'd really like to take a gander at that sometime. Thanks.

PS tried to PM you but your inbox is full.

 

[DynojetResearch]

This is helpful thanks! The bike is a 2012 SMR511 and yes I did the software TPS reset in the PC program. The O2 sensor is new, supplied with the auto tune module. I removed the stock bung in the head pipe and welded in the provided bung figuring it was in that spot for a reason. Fuel I'm working with is pump 92octane which probably has 10%booze added around here. I'd like to run clear gas but I don't have a convenient source and I also hesitate to become special fuel dependent also.
I have been running the "power up kit stock air filter" map so far and it does run well, slight popping on decel but nothing that sounds out of place. The louder note sounds good and healthy, but just interesting that it sounds so much different. I know my diesels take on a whole new sound with tuning so it didn't surprise me overly so.
As far as "cramming in some fuel and ignition timing" into the lower left chunk of tables, I get that but I've also seen the dyno jet video explaining that to cure popping you can, in at lower left area, either add fuel, take away fuel, add timing, or subtract timing. So, this is a bit over my pay grade because that is a lot of opposing variables to navigate!

Despite the issues, I love the unit and it's great to have the flexibility to adjust all these things! If I need to pay for a specialist to dyno it then I can go that route, but yes if you could send a AFR table that you think would be applicable to my bike then I would be keen to see it, thanks.

I did email tech at dyno jet explaining this and they sent a map over through email, however it appears to be one of the maps I've already downloaded that doesn't have the AFR table, so I'm not sure why they sent that.

This target AFR table here might be more up your alley. I took the Power Up Kit map and tweaked some things since it sounds like you'd like to use this for street use as well - and fuel economy is always nice to have, hence the 14's and leaner ratios in the cruise region. Notice the 0's in the lowest TP and RPM tables - this keeps autotune from being tricked by false readings in the exhaust and hunting around tiny pulses of injection.

The exact area for decel pop elimination varies in RPM range from bike to bike, but is always the 0% TP column. For your big single, I'd start with +20 points of fuel from 4500RPM up to max RPM in the 0% column. Sometimes adding fuel only will cure the issue. If it does not, start by adding +5* ignition timing in that same region.

The world is your oyster now and you have all the flexibility to dial that bike in perfectly to suit your needs. Enjoy and I'm always available to help.

And thanks for the heads up on my inbox. Admin has fixed my Premium Member status to give it more space now , plus I deleted all of the old messages.

~T.J.