Any downside to a 1 ton SRW vs 3/4 Ton?

[NorthMNSledder]

I'm in the market for a new to me truck and I have this question I'm looking for help with. In the newer late model trucks (2011 or newer, Any brand) is the only real difference between a 3/4 ton and 1 ton SRW springs, wheels and tires? I'm looking at upgrading to a diesel to pull a new 5th wheel camper we are looking at and a couple times a year pull atv's behind that (less then 10,000 lbs total. But from everything I can tell there really is not much of a difference between the two anymore but the 1 ton SRW gets a much higher payload and a little more towing capacity. Price in the used market here is minimal if any. My real concern is the ride. For work I'm only 8 miles to the office so no big deal. But this truck will make 12 trips a year to our cabin which is a 525 miles round trip with usually just an ATV in the bed. Then a couple trips a year out west towing our very light enclosed trailer. Will the 1 ton SRW ride that much (or any worse) then the 3/4"? Truck will be a Crew Cab long bed for what its worth.

 

[slyrydr]

i buy a new 350/3500, all brands, but mostly ford, every year...i've tried the 250's several times, and they do ride slightly better...but when i tow heavier loads, especially when i have x-winds and slick roads, the stability of the heavier rated truck shines, because the suspension doesn't get displaced as much as the lighter truck, which can lead to an upset....an atv in the back, or anything that loads the hitch with 500lbs or more tames the jitters of small road imperfections....pure empty, the 250's are a little smoother to drive, but not a big deal.....dropping 15lbs of air pressure makes the 350's ride better, but will probably give you a tps (tire pressure lite)..i think the 350's look a little better, but you can't go wrong with either....if you should ever step up to a heavier load for some reason, the 350's will handle it much better...i have a 16 k boat, that i pulled with a 250 twice, one emergency stop that involved a fast lane change due to a semi-wreck, got me to switch to the 350, it just handles that type of situation better..

 

[Mafesto]

A friend of mine had this truck. I would not hesitate a bit if I were looking for a HD pickup.

http://www.hahlerauto.com/webster-sd/2013-ford-super-duty-f350-srw-pickup-543784170.htm

 

[summ8rmk]

older superdutys 250/350.
Same frame, same leaf springs, same axles, same gears, same brakes, same steering, same wheels, same intercooler, same transmission, different badges.
F-350 sits higher because it uses a 4in block between axle and leaf spring while 250 uses a 2in block.
I don't know about 2011 and newer but why would they change?

Los frijoles estan muy caliente dijo la mama osa!

 

[Bocephus]

i bought a 12 ram cummins in 12. i cant speak for other makes/models, but the 10-12 2500 vs 3500 rams were identical except: 1 more leaf in the rear leaf pack, door badges (2500/3500), no tire pressure sensors (because it was only mandated on 2500 and lower trucks), and the price tag was higher. because of this higher price tag, i got a 2500.


i know the 13+ rams have different rear suspension packages for the 25 and 35 series (coils vs leafs......yes coils in the rear of an HD truck..???) you can also get a bigger stronger tranny in the 3500 (rams 68RFE vs the Aisin)...........maybe other options, but those are the major ones.

 

[Dogmeat]

I am not sure about the Fords, but until 2013 the 2500 and 3500 Dodge and GM trucks were essentially identical except for rear spring and (on the GM trucks) torsion bars. The Dodge trucks the front ends were the same, the only difference was another leaf in the back on the 3500s. THe 13' and newer dodges there are some significant differences between the 2500 and 3500 as mentioned above, but I don't think so on the GM trucks. Not too sure about the Fords.

I opted for the 3500 Dodge in 2012 because the trailer I had really had quite a bit of tongue weight, so it was definatley the right choice .... I could have done a 2500 with bags or the 3500 and not delt with bags. The 3500 didnt ride so much worth it made me want to buy a 2500 and put $700 worth of bags on it *shrug*

 

[coach3]

I use F250 to pull heavy loads with a gooseneck flatbed trailer. I put a leveling kit on the front, have airbags installed and have the tps sensors calibrated to 45lbs, which then I run 50lbs all the time. This set up pulls like a dream with the gooseneck or a 3,000lb tote in the bed. Haven't had to use a 1 ton for years.

 

[NorthMNSledder]

I use F250 to pull heavy loads with a gooseneck flatbed trailer. I put a leveling kit on the front, have airbags installed and have the tps sensors calibrated to 45lbs, which then I run 50lbs all the time. This set up pulls like a dream with the gooseneck or a 3,000lb tote in the bed. Haven't had to use a 1 ton for years.

BUT if you were stopped your illegal and that is the one thing I'm trying to avoid. I have no doubt that the 3/4 ton will handle the weight (since they are basically the same truck). But as someone who has been stopped and checked before on the interstate I don't feel like having that discussion with a trooper while on vacation with the wife.

From everything I read and tell I think the 1 ton SRW is the better move for me.

 

[AZ800]

BUT if you were stopped your illegal and that is the one thing I'm trying to avoid. I have no doubt that the 3/4 ton will handle the weight (since they are basically the same truck). But as someone who has been stopped and checked before on the interstate I don't feel like having that discussion with a trooper while on vacation with the wife.

From everything I read and tell I think the 1 ton SRW is the better move for me.

So I frequent a RV forum sometimes with a bunch blue hairs that post incessantly about gvw, pin weight, etc and argue 10x more about this than this forum does about ported tracks and which oil to run!
I have yet to hear any first hand accounts except yours of overweight legal issues from the 5-0 in a recreational personal vehicle, nor have I had any in 20+ years of pulling and hauling stuff, cept for one little speed trap town back in IL where I grew up. That said, it can happen and $ for $ you get a little more with a 3500 priced essentially the same. The big difference used to be and still is a lot for licensing purposes cost. With some states charging by the pound for gvw.
So I think the risk there is low.
Up til a couple years ago, 3500s were just 2500s with extra springs, but now there are some differnet suspension packages, etc, air ride, coils that differ between 250s and 350s.
If I was buying used though, I would prioritize on miles condition and price over 250 vs 350 for all other reasons other than your concern above.
But that's just me. I'd gamble the odds of a couple tickets over the course of many years vs a savings if I found a deal on a 2500.

 

[NorthMNSledder]

So I frequent a RV forum sometimes with a bunch blue hairs that post incessantly about gvw, pin weight, etc and argue 10x more about this than this forum does about ported tracks and which oil to run!
I have yet to hear any first hand accounts except yours of overweight legal issues from the 5-0 in a recreational personal vehicle, nor have I had any in 20+ years of pulling and hauling stuff, cept for one little speed trap town back in IL where I grew up. That said, it can happen and $ for $ you get a little more with a 3500 priced essentially the same. The big difference used to be and still is a lot for licensing purposes cost. With some states charging by the pound for gvw.
So I think the risk there is low.
Up til a couple years ago, 3500s were just 2500s with extra springs, but now there are some differnet suspension packages, etc, air ride, coils that differ between 250s and 350s.
If I was buying used though, I would prioritize on miles condition and price over 250 vs 350 for all other reasons other than your concern above.
But that's just me. I'd gamble the odds of a couple tickets over the course of many years vs a savings if I found a deal on a 2500.

But that's my point, there is no price difference between the two in my market. Same condition, miles, options those two trucks are going for the same price. Since I can't take each for a 300 mile test drive to see how I like the ride on a trip I'm having to guess on this a little based on short test drives. And on short drives around down they both feel/drive very similar so I can't find a reason to buy the 3/4 ton over the 1 ton but I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything I was missing. I'll check on Lic fees to see what that difference will be.

As far as our stop last year. No tickets were received as we were not overweight. Just stopped, inspected, and weighed (gross load, pin weight, per axle weight). This was a double trailer set-up similar to what I'm going to be pulling and we were driving a 1 ton SRW 2012 Silverado, pulling a 5th wheel camper and boat. He pulled us over because he thought we might be over length (His exact reason when he stopped us). Then he had everything else checked. I have no idea what the fines would be if you were over weight and to be honest I'd rather not find out.

 

[AZ800]

But that's my point, there is no price difference between the two in my market. Same condition, miles, options those two trucks are going for the same price. Since I can't take each for a 300 mile test drive to see how I like the ride on a trip I'm having to guess on this a little based on short test drives. And on short drives around down they both feel/drive very similar so I can't find a reason to buy the 3/4 ton over the 1 ton but I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything I was missing. I'll check on Lic fees to see what that difference will be.

As far as our stop last year. No tickets were received as we were not overweight. Just stopped, inspected, and weighed (gross load, pin weight, per axle weight). This was a double trailer set-up similar to what I'm going to be pulling and we were driving a 1 ton SRW 2012 Silverado, pulling a 5th wheel camper and boat. He pulled us over because he thought we might be over length (His exact reason when he stopped us). Then he had everything else checked. I have no idea what the fines would be if you were over weight and to be honest I'd rather not find out.

If I could get an apples to apples 1 ton over a 3/4 ton for the same $, I'd get the 1 ton. I have a fleet of 2500 and 3500 trucks of all flavors right now running on ice roads and washboards around the N Slope of AK and honestly they all ride about the same. Any empty HD truck will be stiff and I've founds that the tire pressure makes a huge difference. Also on the newer rigs with TPMS there IS a way to lower the threshold for tire pressure so you can air down to reasonable PSI for driving empty without the idiot light coming on.

 

[coach3]

I have my dealer recalibrate the pressure sensors before the truck leaves the lot.
The ride will be much better and the tires will last much longer.

 

[Dogmeat]

BUT if you were stopped your illegal and that is the one thing I'm trying to avoid. I have no doubt that the 3/4 ton will handle the weight (since they are basically the same truck). But as someone who has been stopped and checked before on the interstate I don't feel like having that discussion with a trooper while on vacation with the wife.

From everything I read and tell I think the 1 ton SRW is the better move for me.

The GVWR on the SRW 250/350 trucks is like 9999 for a 250 and 10001 for a 350.......this is for tax purposes in some states. A DRW 350 is like over 12000bGVWR for all makes to my knowledge

 

[summ8rmk]

According to Ford all superduty F250's are 8,800 gvwr.
F350's SRW start at 9900 gvwr.

Los frijoles estan muy caliente dijo la mama osa!

 

[coach3]

10,000lb gvwr on 2014 F250 I buy tonnage for the truck for 34,000lbs have stopped at scales and stopped multiple times by DOT, never questioned if I was beyond the limit of the truck, just that i had bought more tonnage.

 

[papafinger1]

I have one. Only sacrifice is ride=rough

 

[Bedhead]

If you are going almost new, the tabs or license renewal is cheaper for a 1 ton in Mn. Possibly even a better tax write off if you live outside of town (farm). And MN likes to stop you for weight checks! Lots of friends and co-workers have been stopped and checked so I agree with your concern.

 

[Surly1]

OP, for MN go with a 350/3500 as yearly license is only $125'ish (this is lifetime rate). Whereas the 250/2500 fall into standard licensing rates for vehicles (year, price, tax base) which usually is around $350 to $450 per year for the first 5yrs since new, then starts to drop to a normal rate.

As for difference between the two, as others have said there isn't much. It really depends on what year and mfg you are looking at.

Also as you have found out, MN (and IA) do pull people over for "checks". I haven't heard of anybody getting in too much trouble yet on the campers, other than stearn warnings. But I do know, if you are in an accident here in MN and overloaded, the DOT is gonna have fun with you and your wallet.

I personally only run a 1 ton, as I don't see much ride diff between the 1 tons and 3/4 tons, when empty.

 

[NorthMNSledder]

It's funny you mention MN and IA as those are the only places I have heard of anybody being stopped in a RV set set up. Good to know on the lic as I was going to give them a call Monday. But that would be some nice savings on lic tabs.

 

[FarmerTimBob]

IMO the ride on either is nothing to write home about. On both you'll notice the bumps. I have a 250 and dad has a 350, mine definitely squats more hooked up to the same trailer with same load. I would go for the 1 ton. Rides the same but will haul more.