Any big block chevy builders?

[Motley Doo]

Ok, for my 13th birthday, my grandparents bought me a 69' chevy C-20 that had a 396/turbo 400 in it. Project truck, they had one just like it and wanted to pass one on to me. My question is how do I know the block is still good? The guy before me slid new crank bearings in without touching the crank, long story short, when I pulled the bottom end apart, it had eaten the thrust bearing and the crank flyweights had been rubbing on the side of the clock bearing webing, turning it shades of blue and purple. Does anyone know if its still good? Also, it's getting stroked. Can't live with the high rpm 396 with these gas prices, but I don't what to go with, I know people with a 4" stroke in these, but how about a 4.25" stroke? Probably going to go with a Scat cast crank as this motor will only be turning around 5500. I'm dropping the turbo 400 for a Borg Warner Super T-10, it has 3.26 gears in the Eaton 9". I got a ripping deal on a Comp Hyd. roller cam, 208/212 dur., .520" lift and 110 LSA. Also doing roller rockers, probably 1.7:1. The heads are lacking, as of right now they will be ported passenger car irons unless I can come across a 2 grand for alum.. Not sure about carb and intake yet, probably a Weind dual plane and a Speed Demon. It is a 2 bolt main block, but its getting ARP studs everywhere I can. Trucks a daily driver and because of this, an EFI system might also be in the cards. I know this is a lot of info to swallow, but If someone could give me some feedback on this setup and and the block, that would be great! Thanks for help!

 

[sky7051]

After build race engines every year for years and rebuilding throughout the season. There are two best friends for you in your project, ebay and a local shop you trust. Tear the block down and take it to the shop and have them run through it, smaller shops are better cause you can usually work with the owner on the price and maybe even trade some work. For any parts you need do your research and search ebay. I've saved thousands on ebay by just knowing what I want (down to exact part number) and taking my time searching. Also looking into a company called Delta here in Washington. They are great with cams, think they do cranks too, but they can make any crank you want, you give them the specs and they mill it, about half the price of normal and great customer service. Good luck and take your time and have fun with it, great motor and those trucks are a blast.

 

[Motley Doo]

Unfortunatly, our local machine shop doesn't have that good of a service record, so I'm making a trip to Spokane here next month to have the block machined. Thanks for the help! Any other opinions?

 

[winter brew]

I had a SS396 elcamino that I built when I was 18. I have forgotten most of what I knew about the BB chevy, but I can tell you to avoid a high volume oil pump and use a bigger oil pan if you can. If you are anything like I was when I was young you will be spinning that BB up a bit and finding it's limits. They dry sump the oil pan real easy with stock pan volume and a high presure pump, result is junking the #1 connecting rod bearing, or worse. Stock is more than adequate.....would have saved me alot of $$!
For carb I ran the Holley spreadbore replacement. It has the tiny primary and huge secondary. With 4.11 gears and cruising the hiway at 3,000rpm (60mph) I still got 17 mpg with 360ish HP....as long as I stayed out of the throttle.
Have fun with the project !!

 

[Motley Doo]

Thanks for the advice! I've heard to stay away from a high vol. pump with the stock pan, but I'm affraid that with how cold it gets(thicker oil), that without the high vol. pump I'd starve the roller lifters. Not sure about my oil system, though. Probably the biggest sump I can find and a remote oil filter and cooler. 17 mpg, gotta love the small primary, thinking about wide-band tuning the carb, one of the mag. had a cool article on it, something like 560 hp and 24 mpg!

 

[Estevahn]

Your block should be fine but I would recommend having it align bored. I do align bore for a living and have seen main webs turned blue just like you've described. Of course your machinist will have the final say after he looks it over, checks for cracks, etc. But I haven't thrown any blocks away because of the bluing or damage from the crank rubbing the main webs.

 

[EricW]

Back when I was racing, we used Howard Green (in Spokane) to do all machine/balance work. There was also a guy named Drew Backlund that put out some nice work on BB Chevy and Fords.

In all your other considerations, dont forget cooling. Its a real killer on many BB motors. Good luck. EW

 

[Skogen]

I have a BBC in my 69 chevelle, i know it can be a pain on a hot day to keep it cool. Good fan/radiator/pump are recomended.

I get about 15mpg crusing on the hw at about 70 2800rpm at about 550hp

 

[Motley Doo]

Thanks for all the input, guys! Yes, the cooling system is getting an aluminum pump, the stock radiator will be used, but because it was a C-20, it has the 4-pass, BIG radiator option from the factory, and I will be adding twin electric fans. I know small block's could be modified by running a cooling line from the back of the heads to right next to the thermostat housing, can you do this with the BB's to help cool the heads? Also, any tips on pulling out a busted off head bolt? Busted off about a 1/4" above the deck, have tried soaking it in some nasty stuff, front and back through a freeze plug, any other tips? Almost forgot, anyone have any advice on ignitions? We always ran MSD pro billet dist. and a 6AL box in our circle track cars, anything else working better? Thanks for the help!

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Thanks for all the input, guys! Yes, the cooling system is getting an aluminum pump, the stock radiator will be used, but because it was a C-20, it has the 4-pass, BIG radiator option from the factory, and I will be adding twin electric fans. I know small block's could be modified by running a cooling line from the back of the heads to right next to the thermostat housing, can you do this with the BB's to help cool the heads? Also, any tips on pulling out a busted off head bolt? Busted off about a 1/4" above the deck, have tried soaking it in some nasty stuff, front and back through a freeze plug, any other tips? Almost forgot, anyone have any advice on ignitions? We always ran MSD pro billet dist. and a 6AL box in our circle track cars, anything else working better? Thanks for the help!

on the head bolt,simply drop a half inch nut over the stud zap with mig welder and pull while its hot....will come right out..as for bigblocks..had lots of them.I like 427's descent on fuel..good power and lots of r's...build a stout motor , run a new 4L60 or 80 trans and a medium gear ratio...3.42-3.73 on a 31 in tire..trans has lower first as well as overdrive so best of both performance and economy...and go injected..good kits will tie the injection the ignition and the trans togeather..all in 1 kit....any good bottom end with truck rods(3/8 bolts) will work fine to 8000 rpm with just good bolts and proper build...HP is all in the heads and cam..build a good bottom and concentrate on heads..merlins are good street heads...as are edelbrocks...

 

[Motley Doo]

Wow, don't know why I never thought about the nut trick! Thanks for the info, it does have forged rods in it, I'll probably just end up putting nice ARP bolts in them and re-using them. My grandfather, who bought the truck, had a 67' drop top vette with the 435hp tri-power 427 with the M-22 4-speed, there is no arguement with the high rpm power a solid cam'd 427 will make! Does anyone know where I can find BW Super T-10 tranny parts? Bought the tranny at a swapmeet for $50 and its missing some gears, I just really want a stick! Setting it up to take the new GV overdrive later on, they're making these basically an 8-speed! As for injection kits, any advice? I have an 89' 3/4 ton suburban that has a 97' vortec motor with the Edelbrock MPFI that uses the stock 2 barrel throttle body. It works good, with 4.11's and a Turbo 400, she gets 16 mpg at 75mph!

 

[sky7051]

Love the Super T-10 also, same we used in the modified. Since you've run circle you might try any of the tracks anywhere close. I know the season is coming up soon so nows the time. I'll do some asking around and see if anyone has a decent parts stash around here, know alot of guys running these in the Northwest Modifieds these days. Our last one we got off ebay you could always try there, we got a pretty good deal ($300)

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Wow, don't know why I never thought about the nut trick! Thanks for the info, it does have forged rods in it, I'll probably just end up putting nice ARP bolts in them and re-using them. My grandfather, who bought the truck, had a 67' drop top vette with the 435hp tri-power 427 with the M-22 4-speed, there is no arguement with the high rpm power a solid cam'd 427 will make! Does anyone know where I can find BW Super T-10 tranny parts? Bought the tranny at a swapmeet for $50 and its missing some gears, I just really want a stick! Setting it up to take the new GV overdrive later on, they're making these basically an 8-speed! As for injection kits, any advice? I have an 89' 3/4 ton suburban that has a 97' vortec motor with the Edelbrock MPFI that uses the stock 2 barrel throttle body. It works good, with 4.11's and a Turbo 400, she gets 16 mpg at 75mph!

used to be a place called street and marine performance..they used the factory zz-502 style tuned port and tune for your app...did a couple of theirs and they were well done....

 

[Motley Doo]

I actually worked for a local race parts store for 3 years, the owner and I ran it and he owned a super late model. Unfortunatly, the track changed hands and the business end took a dive, bummed, it was the most fun I've EVER had working! He's running a T-10 in his, but everyone else runs Jerico's. Does the Richmond T-10 gear sets swap into the older, factory cases? Hey, you running a modified might know our track, Raceway Park, Kalispell MT, they have a modified's race once a year, good race to watch! They might have even dragged the late model down to a Wenatchee race once last year!

 

[Motley Doo]

used to be a place called street and marine performance..they used the factory zz-502 style tuned port and tune for your app...did a couple of theirs and they were well done....

Ok, I'll have to look into the injection systems a little bit more, it would be nice to walk out on a cold mourning and just twist the key! Did those use a mass air-flow sensor? How much did they cost you?

 

[sky7051]

Yeah been there a couple times, don't usually remember much after those weekends between the racing and "after racing" I'll ask our tranny guy tomorrow about the gears and casing interchanability and see what he knows. Got out of racing at the end of 06 and decided to get a sled and do something a bit cheaper. LOL ..... Or so I thought.

 

[woodzy]

who did you work for in Kalispell that raced?

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Ok, I'll have to look into the injection systems a little bit more, it would be nice to walk out on a cold mourning and just twist the key! Did those use a mass air-flow sensor? How much did they cost you?

Its been quite a few years..back in 98 I think...back then I think the kit with harness for a 4L60e and alarm system ran about 2300 delievred. and yes they were on a mass air flow sensor...but was very high quality stuff...I dont even know if they are still in business..

 

[Motley Doo]

Ok, great, thanks, I'll have to look into that system, I know they worked pretty good as long as they weren't messed with, but that was just the ECU. I worked at Total Speed and Performance, Alex Lessor drove the car.