Another runnability issue. Looking to see who has run across something similar...

[NWaxys]

Just had this issue in my 16, would bog terribly at wot. I did releays, and all couldn’t figure it out. I found out I had a ton of water in fuel. I data logged (have 860 w bully dog) and logs where all clean except my pipe temps where way way low. Concluded that I needed a new sensor, and that my bag in tank was loaded w water. After digging some more my pv cable was stretched way out too! I’m doing motor mounts today just because and so far it’s been ok again.

 

[Teth-Air]

FYI, I too had this problem but don't expect water.


I took out my airbox to double check tps (not fun) and looking into my throttle blocks. I noticed the butterfly valves not equally opening. I know this adjustment is NOT to be serviced but I had looked in before and remember both were equal. My question is did something in the linkage wear or did the balancing screw loosen off?? The dealer would not have looked at this when they checked the TPS. The TPS was set correctly for the one side but definitely not the other. I opened the butterflies just enough for a screw driver shaft to slip under and did this to both sides and adjusted equal. Then reset TPS. Idle is much better now so next ride will determine if this is what it needed.

I do not recommend anyone playing with this adjustment as the manual said replacement is the answer. You can always check it though if you expect a problem.

 

[richracer1]

I agree, trying to synch the throttle bodies would be an absolute last resort, but at close to $400 for a new set, I personally would give it a try to get them matched up again.

FYI, I too had this problem but don't expect water.

I took out my airbox to double check tps (not fun) and looking into my throttle blocks. I noticed the butterfly valves not equally opening. I know this adjustment is NOT to be serviced but I had looked in before and remember both were equal. My question is did something in the linkage wear or did the balancing screw loosen off?? The dealer would not have looked at this when they checked the TPS. The TPS was set correctly for the one side but definitely not the other. I opened the butterflies just enough for a screw driver shaft to slip under and did this to both sides and adjusted equal. Then reset TPS. Idle is much better now so next ride will determine if this is what it needed.

I do not recommend anyone playing with this adjustment as the manual said replacement is the answer. You can always check it though if you expect a problem.

 

[diamonddave]

Plugged into DW-- Pulled up P1351 Ignition coil circuit open.

Wait a second. Was the trouble code you pulled a hard code (check engine light on all the time or was it just stored in history? Big difference in the road you go down to diagnose.

If you swapped ECU's and no change, then you should be able to backprobe the circuit at the ECU and find something wrong.

 

[adamg]

Try a different exhaust temp sensor.

I have been chasing a similar issue with my sled, been to the dealer (two different ones) and thus far no answers.

First time it popped up was 20+ days into this season. Riding 3 climbs back on a deep day, sled wouldn't pull RPM and acted like it was either dropping a cylinder or exhaust valves weren't opening. Checked plugs, replaced, swapped relays, checked all major components, ran for 5 mins and did it again, progressively getting worse until eventually wouldn't go over 6000rpm and finally threw a CEL. What a pain to climb out of some of those spots.

First they thought it could have been some condensation or corrosion on the PWM to analog converter (401435) causing the actuator to malfunction even though I was getting a Short to Battery voltage code. Cleaned that up and it ran fine right from the shop for a 30 mile burn across several fields. There were 150 exhaust related codes that came up on the DW. It was over an hour ride out the first day so it didn't surprised me.

Skip ahead another 10+ days riding, and same issue. Two climbs back, starting surging and not pulling rpm. CEL came on right away. Started riding out and then halfway out the opposite, it would barely idle, over fueling/oiling so bad it was like a diesel rolling coal and there was no bottom end. Signal Out of Range, Valve Closed. This somewhat made sense given what we were seeing.

So between not going over 6000 RPM on two of the occasions then it switching to barely idling and having no low end everyone is at a loss on what to do. I'd trade it on a new sled but trade in values suck. I hate to sell it to someone but it has warranty until Dec 2019 at least.

I have seen a few 16's have some gremlins, the odd '17 chase some issues and some questionable mapping on the 18's. I hate being a first year guinea pig on maybe a 19, maybe I just take a year off riding?

 

[Murph]

Sometimes DTC's can be erroneous and caused by something completely different.

Problem solved......

And I am an idiot......

After chasing all the apparent electrical gremlins including swapping out (all of which entailed disassembling a second sled)

coils
E-VES actuator
PVM converter
ECU
Stator
Complete Harness

To NO avail..... I was out of options, other then to check more mechanical issues (keep in mind compression tested fine AND DW said open circuit to coil AND the E-VES valves were failing to open on a stand---> all pointing to electrical)

FML.....look what I found. Reed petal gone.... not chipped, but gone. Never lost a single petal in 15,000+ miles of multiple ProRide ProRMKs.

Swapped out reed and back in business.


That's what I get for looking for a unicorn. The sudden onset of symptoms just seemed electrical. The DW code, the valves not opening....

One problem with the E-VES system is that if certain parameters aren't met, the ECU will close the valves to save the motor but wont throw a code.

I even hooked up to digital wrench a second time and analyzed the outputs-- no notification as to why the valves were held....

 

[Sage Crusher]

So Murph- What in the world made you look at reeds?

 

[diamonddave]

Murph, you are in no way an idiot. Maybe an *** Just kidding!! Trying to make you laugh.

Solving runnability issues in these sleds is no easy science. They're simple but still not very smart systems. They have no way of self identifying mechanical issues. Welcome to the 90's tech.

Every single tough, kick my a$$, supersonic wire chasing diagnostic nightmare I was involved in always turned out to be a huge learning experience that helped the next time. I got very good at using meters, scan-tools, dual trace lab scopes. I used to have vehicles and trucks towed to me from out of state because they couldn't get figured out by local shops. Towed from California, Oregon, Montana, Idaho and even one from Saudi Arabia. And some times often times it wasn't a trouble code that was set that caused the issue.

I can certainly see why you went down the road you did. Sounds like you were going after an erroneous "soft" code stored in memory and not a "hard" code. Possibly set when someone was checking connections?


Anyway, the main thing is the sled is fixed and you learned a great deal and shared all of your steps and info with all of us. So remember that your pain may in the future help any of us.

BONUS!!!

 

[Ktmsx350f]

was this a current or history code? pin fit and wires are #1 cause ive seen. unplug the ecu and test pin fit also test at component end. use a battery and head lamp and apply power and ground to the circuit and light the bulb. test for short to ground/ short to voltage/ another circuit. this is a very basic circuit very easy to test if it is a hard fault.

 

[Murph]

Yay!.... get to relive my f’up.....

Taking one for the team.

Enjoy! ?

 

[Daag44]

Which side had the broken reed petal, pto or mag?

 

[kidwoo]

Sounds like a broken reed petal.

Did you check that?

I only read the first page.

 

[Murph]

Which side had the broken reed petal, pto or mag?

Unfortunately, I don’t remember....