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Another head scratcher

I'm confused.

There can be a gap tolerance between the alignment bar and the driven clutch, yet the instructions say it runs best when tight. Ok, then why get it aligned with the bar, then remove driven clutch and add a shim behind it?
 
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I'm confused.

There can be a gap tolerance between the alignment bar and the driven clutch, yet the instructions say it runs best when tight. Ok, then why get it aligned with the bar, then remove driven clutch and add a shim behind it?
The shim is for lead in.

It’s just silly there’s different instructions for 3 n/a sleds with the same clutches.
 
The shim won’t change the leadin it just moves the secondary out.
You got me there.

I was confusing the majority of sleds needing shimmed out vs polaris random method of “get it close and add a shim”

With how bad that oem alignment tool is I think they are just blind swinging in the dark.

I have one of the poo oem ones and yours and they are not the same……..
 
Different spec for different poo bars (they are kinda swinging between the three here), and screwed up specifying the bar for the procedure text, even tho every text implies 51607?
 
Different motors with different mounts with different HP and varying dynamics can require different offsets to get your clutches optimized. Even identical stock sled to stock sled can require different offsets. Looks like a few of those they want the secondary offset a bit more in, and the others a bit more out. That said, clutch alignment is a best guess IMO when you get it from the manufacturer. I've seen some model years spot-on (Polaris/Yamaha), and some models so bad you have to cut metal to get them lined up properly (Arctic Cat). You also have primary and secondary clutch tolerance stack-ups to consider.
 
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