Am I missing something on the BDX Deflection Adjuster?
- Thread starter AaronBND
- Start date
so let me get this straight...
you need this for the deflection adjuster
http://bd-xtreme.com/bdxbeltdeflectionadjusterleft.aspx
and this to remove the belt
http://bd-xtreme.com/bdx09beltremovaltoolandbeltdeflectionadjustertool.aspx
and to be sure, the 09 m8 needs the left handed thread deflector adjuster??
debating this set up or the all in one slp adjuster and belt remover assy.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=2&catID=5&productID=1311
thanks for the heads up. ski
you need this for the deflection adjuster
http://bd-xtreme.com/bdxbeltdeflectionadjusterleft.aspx
and this to remove the belt
http://bd-xtreme.com/bdx09beltremovaltoolandbeltdeflectionadjustertool.aspx
and to be sure, the 09 m8 needs the left handed thread deflector adjuster??
debating this set up or the all in one slp adjuster and belt remover assy.
http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=2&catID=5&productID=1311
thanks for the heads up. ski
Last edited:
J
Jeff K
Well-known member
Another option is the AMP one. Deflection adjuster and belt remover in one. User your spark plug wrench to adjust it. Works great.
http://www.aftermarketproducts.com/catalog.php?mach_type=S
http://www.aftermarketproducts.com/catalog.php?mach_type=S
I'm going to ask another ingorant question. I just put on and RKT secondary, comes w/ the BD belt deflection adjuster. How far out from the end cap of the helix should adjuster be? To tighten the belt you have to loosen the adjuster, do you then have to run the sled a bit to get the sheaves to come together? Every time I stop and look at the clutch it seems the belt is riding a little different in the sheaves and I can't get it to consistantly ride high in the secondary. What am I doing wrong???
I'll tag on to this question since tonight was the first night I've tried my BDX adjuster and it sounds like we may be having similar issues.
Even with the adjuster all the way out (a gap) the sheeves don't seem to come close enough together to get the belt to ride quite 1/8" up or to be tight enough (deflection of 1 1/8" to 1 1/4").
Anyone have some tips here?
A
AbnRangerM7
Active member
Are you running the sled in between Adjustments?
As stated earlier, you need to get the track off the ground and run it after each adjustment.
I had a BD adjuster on my 05 M7. Once the deflection was set I would tighten the bolt but it would feel like it bottomed out. You could still rotate the adjuster by hand. Any one else seen this before?
J
Jeff K
Well-known member
I had a similar issue when setting my belt deflection the first time with my AMP adjuster...the sheaves wouldnt close all the way. I took the secondary off and played with the adjuster and the sheaves on the bench and it worked perfectly. I put it back on the sled, put the belt on and sure enough...the sheaves wouldnt close all the way again. It ended up being that the belt slides down the sheaves a holds them apart. I just worked the belt out of the sheaves a little and was able to get them to close all the way. When the sheaves were fully closed, the top of my belt sat about 1/8" above the top of the sheaves. From here, I set my belt deflection.
Yaa, I'm running it between settings and the belt ends up at pretty much the same place each time which is the same as it sits with the sheaves all the way together.
Today I'll play around with it some more and spread the sheaves and see if there is any dirt, etc. in there that's keeping them from going all the way together. They're close, but it might just be that last 0.050 or so that does the trick.
Today I'll play around with it some more and spread the sheaves and see if there is any dirt, etc. in there that's keeping them from going all the way together. They're close, but it might just be that last 0.050 or so that does the trick.
if you are cheap and don't want to buy the slick adjustment/belt removal tool from BDX, just remove the secondary totally. it takes 5 seconds with the allen bolt/wrench set from BDX and you can save the $20 for the secondary tool...
However, if it was me - i'd buy the slick tool from BDX and the adjuster from them too. $40 and you've got the BEST adjusting tool and easist belt removal out there. Slick rick!
now - i'm going to throuw this out there. The "creep" test is NOT accurate nor is the squeak test. This will show you that your alignment is probably off though! Think about this too - when you change your deflection, you change your alignment too. The right way to get deflection adjusted right is measure just as the manual says too - 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" deflection. Once you have the deflection set right, then measure you're alignment. if you need change your alignment, you'll have to reset your deflection again... If you have the belt aligned properely when the sled is off, then it will be close enough when running (unless you run an M1000 in which case the belt will never last!!!) ha ha.
Of course, you could just run it and not worry too.
But for those seeking every last bit of performance there is a RIGHT way to setup the clutches...
IMHO...
However, if it was me - i'd buy the slick tool from BDX and the adjuster from them too. $40 and you've got the BEST adjusting tool and easist belt removal out there. Slick rick!
now - i'm going to throuw this out there. The "creep" test is NOT accurate nor is the squeak test. This will show you that your alignment is probably off though! Think about this too - when you change your deflection, you change your alignment too. The right way to get deflection adjusted right is measure just as the manual says too - 1 1/8" to 1 1/4" deflection. Once you have the deflection set right, then measure you're alignment. if you need change your alignment, you'll have to reset your deflection again... If you have the belt aligned properely when the sled is off, then it will be close enough when running (unless you run an M1000 in which case the belt will never last!!!) ha ha.
Of course, you could just run it and not worry too.
But for those seeking every last bit of performance there is a RIGHT way to setup the clutches...IMHO...
1 1/8" to 1 1/4" deflection measured from where? Middle of the belt pushing down w/ a certain pressure?
This brings me to something I just thought about..............When I last set my deflection by getting the track to turn a little, it seemed to hesitate on every revolution. I wonder if that would be an alignment issue. I need to look into that further. So what is the best way to check for alignment w/o having Cat's bar, which I heard aren't real accurate? Using a marker up the sheaves?
Aaron
Aaron
yep. i made a bar that was long enough to spread the distance between the two clutches that had a 1-1/8th perpendicular bar to measure the deflection. Worked well for me.
like i said in the other thread, IMO if its lined up when its off, its close enough.
SO - get your track in the air, sled off, and rotate the secondary clutch by hand but don't touch the belt. do about one revolution and then see where you belt is sitting in the primary. if you can't get .005 feeler guage between the stationary sheeve and the belt without moving the belt, the secondary needs to come out, and if the belt is hard against the movable sheeve (same method), move the secondary in! If the secondary can't move because there are no washers (and there arent! 08/09/10s have NO washers from the factory) - then you'll need to have your secondary cut and the cup bevelled so it fits. I did this on mine - i cut .060 off it so i had the option of moving the secondary where i needed it to be - in or out.
Hopefully this makes sense.
C
chip13
New member
Related to this issue: I installed a new belt on my '07 M8 which ran perfectly with the old, but cracking belt. With the new belt, the track can't be stopped from creeping without killing the motor. The old belt was flush with the top of the secondary sheeves and the new one sits 1/16th of an inch above, so it's obviously wider than the old belt. I'm new to clutch set up but I assume I want the ride height on the secondary set and then adjust the primary for belt clearance. Is this correct or can I simply adjust the secondary to stop the track creep?
Yes. Adjust the secondary wider to drop the belt down in the pulley and reduce the pull of the primary on the belt.
C
chip13
New member
Problem turned out to be the primary needed shimming for the new belt. No matter how much I opened the secondary, the belt dragged on the primary. I previously had SLP's MTX weights installed and the primary was shimmed using the old belt. New belt is 1/16th inch wider. Added shims to the primary and problem solved. Used the screw-in AMP deflection piece while I was at it and it is really slick.
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