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Aluminum Rims On My Super Duty

Pro-8250

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
I have aluminum rims on my 2003 F-250. At times it takes a lot of effort to remove the tire because the rim sticks to the rotor. What I am going to do now is apply anti seize to the back side of the rim that goes up against the rotor.
Anyone have any input? Will this help?:light:
 
We do it all the time, Just try and clean up the corrosion the best you can first. Works like a charm. Eric
 
Yea don't see why that wont work. Otherwise just kick like, well you know what.

P.S. this is irrelevant, but never, ever, ever, use anti-seize on a splined shaft.
 
Yea don't see why that wont work. Otherwise just kick like, well you know what.

P.S. this is irrelevant, but never, ever, ever, use anti-seize on a splined shaft.

Like on a tractor PTO Shaft or what do you mean?



As far as anti-seize we have been doing that for years. Works great.
 
X2 on lots of anti-seize on the back side of the aluminum rim will make life much easier when trying to get them off.
 
Yep use a scotch brite pad on an air grinder to remove corrosion, then paint on anti seize. One of the first things I did to my 96' F150 when I bought it in 04' and to this day never had an issue with the wheel stuck on the hubs.
 
Any splined shaft, but PTO especially. Anti-seize has copper and aluminum in it. Obviously not large particles in there, but enough to matter. All shafts will have a miniscule amt of play, so when you at anti-seize to that, it will act like sand paper and wear out the splines. Hence making slop, rough splines, and lots of vibration.
 
Hey thanks everyone! This got me thinking today. Why don't they have a hard, thin plastic gasket between the rim and the rotor?

Anyway, I think all of the answers above apply to snowmobile trailers even more. Years ago I did find out the hard way that not putting anti-seize on my lug nut studs was a huge mistake on a trailer I had in the past.:second:
 
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