Alternative impact arms coming loose every ride

[Falcon1772]

I can't get the Alternative impact arms to stay tight, I've loctited the **** out of them, tightened them to the point where it feels uncomfortable and they still come loose. AND the titanium Spindle bolts BENT! How the hell does a titanium bolt bend inside of an aluminum hole? Shouldn't the aluminum hole wallow out before that titanium bolt gives? While I love the stance of the 36"
I have to tighten it every ride. And I wouldn't say I'm a hard core rider, more like average if that. And no I haven't hit anything to make it bend.
I'm becoming less and less impressed with this kit. I contacted Dan and his solution was to degrease it and loctite it some more. And to replace the titanium bolts is $20 each.

What are your thoughts?

 

[SRXSRULE]

Put the sled in a warm shop. Clean the threads with a wire brush, clean with brake cleaner and compressed air, apply new blue locktite and tighten. Allow to sit over night. Eric

 

[Jreng87]

I got a buddy who has broke 4 lowers this season and not once did the threaded ball joints break and save they arm like they are designed to. Ranges from small taps to one big hit, granted, but the concept is failing. Their solution is to custom order with bigger walled tube... Well if that's the solution why not just build them like that to begin with. They are border line more pathetic than the stocks arms. I will never spend my money on those.

 

[Falcon1772]

I got a buddy who has broke 4 lowers this season and not once did the threaded ball joints break and save they arm like they are designed to. Ranges from small taps to one big hit, granted, but the concept is failing. Their solution is to custom order with bigger walled tube... Well if that's the solution why not just build them like that to begin with. They are border line more pathetic than the stocks arms. I will never spend my money on those.

What set would you recommend? Might sell this kit and get something that's designed better. Half the reason I bought it was in case I ever did hit something it would shear the rod end.

 

[BILTIT]

Kmod arms.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

 

[Falcon1772]

Anybody interested in buying a set of 36" Alternative Impact arms? lol

 

[sledheader]

I bent one lower alt impact. I've debated scoring the rod end to create a weak point but haven't done so yet


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[SRXSRULE]

Run aluminum rod ends, problem solved.

I ran a timber sled front end on 2 Apex's for 5 years. Never bent a single a-arm but went through several aluminum rod ends. I always had a spare upper and lower with me. Just an FYI. Eric

 

[Davajn]

Obviously it depends on where you get the hit. But ive changed 4 rod ends this season and never had the titanium bolts come loose.
So far im very pleased with this front end!

 

[Falcon1772]

So far thankfully, I don't really have a problem with the rod ends themselves but the nuts holding them tight and the titanium spindle bolts are loose after every ride. Does anyone else with a Alt Impact kit have issues like that? Is red loctite the answer?

 

[richracer1]

Kmod arms.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk

I 2nd this.

 

[wfieldin]

I've had issue with the top spindle bolts as well. Lost a nut a few rides ago. Yes I paid to buy the newer longer ones.( think this should have been comp'd) The ones I took out where bending as well, so I'm not too happy about that. I did have a lower rod end that broke as it should at the beginning of the season. I've gotten into the habit of checking all the bolts and nuts on this setup before I head out on most any ride. Have this kit on my 15 and never had any issues, so certainly some growing pains here.

 

[alt]

I can't get the Alternative impact arms to stay tight, I've loctited the **** out of them, tightened them to the point where it feels uncomfortable and they still come loose. AND the titanium Spindle bolts BENT! How the hell does a titanium bolt bend inside of an aluminum hole? Shouldn't the aluminum hole wallow out before that titanium bolt gives? While I love the stance of the 36"
I have to tighten it every ride. And I wouldn't say I'm a hard core rider, more like average if that. And no I haven't hit anything to make it bend.
I'm becoming less and less impressed with this kit. I contacted Dan and his solution was to degrease it and loctite it some more. And to replace the titanium bolts is $20 each.

What are your thoughts?

I still can't put my finger on this.. Out of all the arms that went out this season I have about three guys that I know of with this. I wasn't aware you were still having issues. Can't imagine how clean threads with loctite especially RED and a nylon washer properly tightened would back off but call me and I can send out what we originally started out with which was basically just a grade 8 bolt and nut with 2 misalignment bushings. I'm always willing to help but need to know about it before I can. For the hand full of guys wanting stronger arms it's a pretty easy fix and we have done it for a few by simply upping the wall thickness on the tube. Before deciding to go this route I would highly advise tunnel braces. We will try and keep these arms as an off the shelf item for next season just as a second option. It's hard to cover everyone's needs in this area but we sure do try. Keep in mind you can hit things more than just several ways and every impact is going to be different. I always tell guys that order we do not and can NOT guarantee the rod end will break or bend before the arm but I'll take a 50/50 chance at replacing a $20 part over an arm any day. The rod ends cannot not do their job if you take a direct hit in the center of the arm for sure, they just can't. The new Docol material I'm pretty impressed with over the cromoly because it doesn't crack when it folds. I've had guys actually bend them back to finish out the day. You won't do that with the moly tube. Anyway guys I'm always there to help, anyone that's ever dealt with me knows that, but I have to know about it before I can.
Dan

 

[turboless terry]

Dan, I helped bue put his set on his supercharger and was wondering if people don't thread them out far enough. Wondering if that is the difference between people breaking the ends versus people not?

 

[ullose272]

Anybody interested in buying a set of 36" Alternative Impact arms? lol

how much?

 

[alt]

Dan, I helped bue put his set on his supercharger and was wondering if people don't thread them out far enough. Wondering if that is the difference between people breaking the ends versus people not?

Good point and I just recently revised the instructions saying just that as well as relaying it during the sale on the phone. It's a tough game these a arms. I realize your never going to make every customer happy but with the number of kits we put out this year and having just the handful of issues I say speaks volumes. I always do my best to take care of any situation that comes along but I'll be the first to say were not perfect. Guys have to call me and let me know if they are having issues. On ANY of my kits you can always UNTHREAD the rod ends out but on some and the 36" kit is a perfect example, you cannot thread them inward because you will end up with clearance issues and steering binding. Some of the guys with the doo's thread them in to narrow up even more than the normal set up and that seems to work ok but NOT on the 36" Polaris. Hanging the rod ends out 2-3 threads more does more than one thing, it allows the rod end to do it's job more effectively and can get you to the 37" stance if you want. BUT...again... hitting whatever object you come in contact with in the middle of the arm will do nothing but simply bend the arm. Rod ends work and work well when you have contact with the ski which is most of the time. A weak link on these is a vital key (rod ends) to protecting other more expensive components and I realize that is always going to be up for debate and each individual interpretation as to how to make that happen. Besides the front bumper let's face it, a arms are the most vulnerable parts on the sled.

 

[Falcon1772]

This is the spindle bolt that I have bending. You can see its bent in the picture. Both sides are bent like this.


The other issue I have is the tie rod end nuts are coming loose every single time I ride it. I've loctited them and tightened the crap out of them and they still come loose. Probably because they are an aluminum nut on a steel thread. As far as I know, an aluminum nut will never stay tight...



Also I DID contact you via email. I asked about why my front end was continually coming loose and you said to degrease it and loctite it. I've already done all that and it still comes loose. I also at the time asked how much to replace those bolts that I have pictured and you said $20

 

[alt]

To me if your not hitting anything they are bending from coming lose. Again especially using red loctite on a self locking nylon nut I just can't wrap my head around them coming loose but I'll send you the older style set up and that should fix that. I'll do what I can within reason, I always do. On a side note I do have the jam nuts in steel as well. Thank you.
Dan

 

[LoudHandle]

This is the spindle bolt that I have bending. You can see its bent in the picture. Both sides are bent like this.


The other issue I have is the tie rod end nuts are coming loose every single time I ride it. I've loctited them and tightened the crap out of them and they still come loose. Probably because they are an aluminum nut on a steel thread. As far as I know, an aluminum nut will never stay tight...



Also I DID contact you via email. I asked about why my front end was continually coming loose and you said to degrease it and loctite it. I've already done all that and it still comes loose. I also at the time asked how much to replace those bolts that I have pictured and you said $20

Question; Are the nuts possibly hitting the end of the thread / shoulder before actually touching / clamping the flat surfaces of the spindle.

Are there supposed to be flat washers under the nut that are not being used?

I've also read about a spacer height difference in some of Dan's kits, depending on rod end choice from memory? Are the wrong ones being used? The rod end with correct spacers should completely fill up the space in the spindle, does it?

If the rod end is clamped into / to the spindle properly, IMO, any fastener will do the job without bending. If it is not getting a clamp load on the stack before getting tight, no amount of Loc-tite is going to help.

My two cents, FWIW

 

[alt]

And another good point but I don't think so. I had new longer studs made but they both had the same amount of thread beyond the shoulder that contacts the top of the spindle. Not at the shop right now but if memory serves me the thickness of the casting on the top of the spindle on the pro was .500 and the axys was .560. The stud from the shoulder to the end of the thread ( or start however you want to look at it) is .400.