Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Air Bubble in Oil line???

Is this possible??? Could this be why my code 30 won't stop flashing and shutting off my sled??? I called Troy at M&M and he said this is the only thing that he could think of since I've done everything else. How would I go about fixing this???
 
I used to use a $2 Walmart anti-freeze syringe to bleed oil lines on two strokes from the reservoir to pump and then to the carbs and cases. Not sure on the 4s though, there's air in the cases and in the reservoir, if its getting into the lines I'm not sure how you could stop it, or if its the problem in the first place.

Have you checked the oil pump, I'd start by reconnecting the coupler that goes on the oil pressure switch (page 5-44, 1&2) and then check the relief valve (5-46, 19-21).

We also used to spray starting fluid on the PTO side case seal to check that it was airtight, but not sure if the 4s have those either.
 
Code 30 if loss of oil pressure. So if the computer thinks it lost oil pressure, (bad connection), you would get the same code. Bad oil pressure switch, bad connection, ground, etc. Can you hook up, a pressure gauge, and watch the oil pressure? If so, then you would know if this is a false code, or not. And you could go, from there.

geno
 
Code 30 is no oil pressure, if the wiring to the sending unit was bad then code 85 would show.
Try this, first check the oil pressure on the head. There is a 10mm head bolt with a copper washer on the brake side of the head where the header bolts on. Loosen this screw, start the motor and look for a dribble of oil. If there is no oil there then carefully pressurize the oil tank with ain air compressor through the small line on the top while the engine is running. This usually only has to be done when the motor is rebuilt and free of oil.
 
I don't know what you tried so far but try primming the system by filling the main oil line and turning your clutch by hand and crack your oil feed to you turbo and see if oil comes out there when the sled is running.
 
Is there anyway that the bubble will just run itself out??? If not I'll fix it myself. The motor has about 100miles on it.

If you have already ran it (and it had oil pressure), there is almost no chance of it being a bubble. I would look into electrical problems, as I mentioned above.

Can you replicate the symptom, just running it, at idle, in the garage?
 
Is there more to the story? did this just happen one day or after and oil change or some other work to the sled?
Unplug the sender and see if the wire has continuity to ground
They dont really lose oil pressure out of the blue
 
An oil line broke , but I fixed it right and I mean right when it happened. I just happened to be in the hood and noticed that the line broke before the light even came on. I fixed it and started it and the code 30 came on, but only at idle. When I run it and ride it and it's not at idle it runs fine.
 
What line broke? And how did you fix it?


I would not use this sled, till this is fixed. Sounds like the electrical is doing it's job, and you are loosing oil pressure, at idle, which is where the pumps output (and suction input), is lowest.

The code 30 is, oil pressure drop, it means this: the engine started, had oil pressure (off idle at start), then warmed up and idled down, and oil pressure went down (below the threshold for code).
 
I'll post a pic later. I fixed it exactly the way it was hooked up. The hose tore and I cut it with my knife and hooked it back up the exact way it was before it broke. No kinks or anything in the line either.
 
Premium Features



Back
Top