C
catweasel
Well-known member
I ordered a speedwerx can for my sled. While it was shipping, I starting hearing a bunch of guys with the same can and others melting body panels and having excessive heat under the hood.
Most guys seem to be trying to vent the heat out. Problem is, you will still have radiant heat, and after a hard pull if you stop, you are going to cook under the hood.
I thought about it in another way. Most of the heat under the hood comes from the exhaust. The stock can has a heat shield which does seem to work somewhat. I figured the easiest way to lower ambient temps under the hood was to keep the heat in the exhaust, not try and vent it. I like to do off road restorations (old broncos, jeeps, etc....). I usually run headers, which makes it's own problems. I have used header wrap successfully for years.
So, I took some 2000 degree header wrap, wrapped the can and intake tube up to the exhaust flange. I then took a specail 1500 degree silicone header wrap paint and gave it three light coats. If you have never used any of the above before, you wet the wrap, and tightly wind it around the can and secure it with wrap clamps or hose clamps. The paint on top helps seal it and keep it from moving around or unraveling. It will smoke like a bastard for a little bit when you first run hard as this is how it cures.
Initial tests are encouraging. I ran it fairly hard in some powder around my house and then took it straight into my shop. Peeled the panel off checked everything. I could tap the can with my finger without getting burned. The side panel that removes was fine, but the lower body panel that the removable panel rests on was soft. Not burnt, just soft. I put some heat tape on the inside of it and will test some later. I wish I could find my IR heat gun guage to see what the exact can temp it with the wrap on it.
Still trying to figure out what the temps guys who are not running wrap are seeing that are melting panels.
Anyway, below is some pics of what I used and the finished product. Not real pretty, but should save my panels and lower under hood temps.
Most guys seem to be trying to vent the heat out. Problem is, you will still have radiant heat, and after a hard pull if you stop, you are going to cook under the hood.
I thought about it in another way. Most of the heat under the hood comes from the exhaust. The stock can has a heat shield which does seem to work somewhat. I figured the easiest way to lower ambient temps under the hood was to keep the heat in the exhaust, not try and vent it. I like to do off road restorations (old broncos, jeeps, etc....). I usually run headers, which makes it's own problems. I have used header wrap successfully for years.
So, I took some 2000 degree header wrap, wrapped the can and intake tube up to the exhaust flange. I then took a specail 1500 degree silicone header wrap paint and gave it three light coats. If you have never used any of the above before, you wet the wrap, and tightly wind it around the can and secure it with wrap clamps or hose clamps. The paint on top helps seal it and keep it from moving around or unraveling. It will smoke like a bastard for a little bit when you first run hard as this is how it cures.
Initial tests are encouraging. I ran it fairly hard in some powder around my house and then took it straight into my shop. Peeled the panel off checked everything. I could tap the can with my finger without getting burned. The side panel that removes was fine, but the lower body panel that the removable panel rests on was soft. Not burnt, just soft. I put some heat tape on the inside of it and will test some later. I wish I could find my IR heat gun guage to see what the exact can temp it with the wrap on it.
Still trying to figure out what the temps guys who are not running wrap are seeing that are melting panels.
Anyway, below is some pics of what I used and the finished product. Not real pretty, but should save my panels and lower under hood temps.
