Aerosol Graphite Lubricants for Tunnel Ice and Snow..

[Kirklan]

Has anyone tried a aerosol graphite lubricant on their tunnel. 2XM3 in a previous thread mentioned using a John Deere graphite lubricant to keep snow from building up on the tunnel. I'm a farmer and I know if it can stand up to being used on grain headers, augers and hay balers, that it should be able to stay on for a couple rides at time on a snowmobile. Just spray it on every few rides or as needed. What does everyone think?

https://jdparts.deere.com/partsmkt/document/english/pmac/6454_fb_GraphiteLubricants.htm

I also did a search for graphite lubricants and came up with SLIP Plate Aerosol graphite lubricant . They recommend using their product for all sorts of applications and even recommend it for use with snow blowers and snow plows in order to keep snow from sticking.

From SLIP Plates website:
http://www.slipplate.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=11

Winter Weather Maintenance

Winter weather can’t stop SLIP Plate® brand lubricants from protecting your equipment and keeping it working. Unique dry film technology and the lubricating power of graphite combine to produce a durable, water-repelling barrier that continues to lubricate even in the harshest of winter weather.

Unlike greases and wet lubricants, SLIP Plate® brand coatings will not attract dirt or grit, and will do a good job of repelling water, rain, ice and snow. The finely ground and uniquely sized graphites from Superior Graphite bond tightly to metal and wood surfaces and produce a slick surface that will lubricate long after the distinct grey-black visible coating is gone. Unlike wet lubricants that fail to lubricate when they evaporate, SLIP Plate brand products use solid particles that provide lubrication and do not stop lubricating when the carrier is gone. In weather extremes, such as cold, ice and snow; greases and other petroleum lubricants gum up and become very thick. SLIP Plate brand coatings are not affected by the cold when applied and allowed to dry.


Just curious if anyone has used a graphite lubricant to help with snow and ice buildup.

 

[FireDog14]

I have not tried it but you can get it at Napa for $9.90 for a 12oz aerosol can. Worth trying for sure.

 

[jakey-boy]

It takes a little bit to tape off the coolers and spray in there. Sounds like a ton of work to me to to have to do it every couple rides. Would be curious to hear reports from someone that has tried it to see how long it lasts.

 

[himarker]

I work for a Deere dealership and use the above mentioned stuff all the time. I've thought about using it but it makes a mess. Its neat stuff but doubt I'll spray it on. Somebody should do it and let me know. I've got cases of it...

 

[Kirklan]

I was curious as well how messy it was. I'm not too concerned if it stayed in place, but if it "migrates" to places you don't want it to be then it would be a no go.

I'm thinking you make a jig or template out of plastic or wood to cover the coolers. Just hold it up there real quick over the coolers and spray away. I don't care if its a little "slimey" as long as it works and stays where I put it.

 

[Norway]

Lot of work?

Pull the 4 suspension bolts after loosening track, hoist up the rear, clean and apply. Outside rear half of the tunnel would also be a target for me unless you have a wrap.

Sounds to me like both these coatings form a dry film so the big Q is durability. Hope we can find something that will work since this raw alu thing is getting old already.

RS

 

[Old Scud-doo]

Just wondering and it's probably a stupid question but why would you have to tape off the coolers if you use the SLIP plate product? It dries and I don't see how it would cause a problem. Enlighten me with knowledge of the gods. Thanks.

 

[nuggetau]

I want something for the running board ice, but if it migrates it would inevitably end up on the clutches, and that wouldn't be a good thing.

 

[André]

http://youtu.be/LT85IRwW4ek

What do you think about this ultra everdry?? Should reduce ice buildup!

 

[jakey-boy]

Just wondering and it's probably a stupid question but why would you have to tape off the coolers if you use the SLIP plate product? It dries and I don't see how it would cause a problem. Enlighten me with knowledge of the gods. Thanks.

Depends if you want snow to stick to your coolers or not. Personally I would like as much snow and ice as I could possibly get to stay on my coolers since they are barely adequate to keep the sled cool as is... Maybe it doesnt matter. Maybe the snow hitting it initially is sufficient. Just in my mind I feel like I would want the coolers to hold snow some snow if they will..

 

[jakey-boy]

Lot of work?

Pull the 4 suspension bolts after loosening track, hoist up the rear, clean and apply. Outside rear half of the tunnel would also be a target for me unless you have a wrap.

Sounds to me like both these coatings form a dry film so the big Q is durability. Hope we can find something that will work since this raw alu thing is getting old already.

RS

Yeah its not a ton of work to do it once but someone that rides 2-3 days a week may end up doing it almost weekly. That's a lot of work. I purchased some por-15 paint to use on my rails and may try it on my tunnel as well. Stuff is supposed to be crazy durable we will see how it does with snow shed.

 

[harf69]

Por15 is a ceramic paint its tough as nails but has no UV pertection.

 

[mrsnow]

From days of old

Years ago before evacuation running boards etc. we carried a small soft mallet and tapped on the boards and tunnel to clear them. It works but not permanent.

 

[whoisthatguy]

Maybe these will last longer:

Option #1: Polish the inside of the tunnel

Option #2: http://www.ecologicalcoatings.com/nonstick.html

 

[3beans]

I was looking at a sled site awhile ago and they had a permanent black spray on coating that was very similar to powder coating but came in a can.

 

[POLZIN]

I was thinking of trying a dry moly spray

 

[geo]

Most of the spray on graphite stuff (JD tractor, CAT industrial, 3M) I tried (one side one brand other side other brand sprayed on every foot to compare to clean bare aluminum) in the late 90's did not adhere to aluminum very well. A couple of cold rides and it was pretty scratched. Only took acetone and a rag to get it to clean off for the next try.
My patchwork application method showed me it worked for a bit but only close to the heat exchangers then when the metal was cooler further away it was not much different than bare clean aluminum.

One product that did stick was Piston Kote (something like you see applied to pistons today). Came in a can, meant for aluminum, and I applied it with a quality brush. It took 325 degrees to cure it. I did that with a heatgun and a temp gun lol. I think I was pretty sick from the fumes by the end lol. I don't know if it is still around (probably illegal without a licence to apply lol) but would not recommend it because it was much the same as a fresh graphite application. But, it did stay on. I see that 435 lb '96 670 Summit a few times a year still and you still see the coating was there but ice has taken its share off with scratches.

I'm with Jakey boy here with the Pro though. My observations from last season would say to me that at least 1.5" either way off the heat exchangers is part of the cooling system (the area snow don't stick) and sometimes more. I even see the rear bumper mounts giving some help with heat conduction and dissipation (touch it lol).

Anybody know a spray that helps snow stick to warm aluminum?

 

[richracer1]

FWIW, when I had my '09 700 torn apart for mods, I had the outer tunnel surfaces powder coated and so on, I then masked off the tunnel and bulk head coolers, sprayed Rustoleum automotive self-etching primer and then Rustoleum automotive type gloss black paint on the tunnel sides. I figured what the heck, it may last a few rides, but to my surprise, it's all still there and sheds the snow and ice fairly well. The exception being around the upper idlers which there's no way to stop that. The adhesion may have been aided in the fact that the whole tunnel was sand blasted. Pretty much still looks like this today. Also, I did very little prep for this.