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PMed ya but thought I would air my .02 for others. With my arms I always (39'' Polaris) install lower rod end so that you have 2-3 threads showing beyond the jam nut. 5/8'' on the 36''. Then because they are also threaded on the uppers do your adjusting there. The lower arm is always going to take the brunt of it so the shorter things are the stronger they will be. I really don't pay too much attention to the + - camber because there are just way too many opinions about that, not worth the argument. I personally like a "flat" ski, so to get this again going back to the upper and doing everything from there, level across the tops of your skies. With a straight frame both sides should be very close as far as threads showing from one side to the other. Thanks!Installing a 39'' kit (alternative impact)
On my '14 assault.
Due to the design I have adjustment on the upper and lower tie rod end.
Service manual says
1.95+-0.31 ''
So what does that mean and how do I measure it?
Its surprising how far off you can be from eyeball. 2 degrees on most spindles is hard to see with the naked eye. This goes back to what I said earlier. Most guys wont notice even a 4 degree difference. The way we set them up in the shop is center to center on upper and lower mounting points on the spindles, then an angle finder. That get you as close as your going to possibly get. Also at "ride height". This eliminates having to come up with a rod and having to remove the skies, as most bolts are bent and difficult to get out. Not saying I would run the sled with a + or -4 degree camber tolerance, just stating if you dont have all the proper gizmos to set camber don't stroke out. ski alignment ( toe in or out) is as important or even more so than a slightly off camber setting. Thanks!When i installed my holz kit I eye balled therything except the toe in and it steers straight and runs good!
Just out of curiosity, what size is that copper pipe??????
9 1/16'' OD