Adjustable Steering Post Install Procedure?

[Coldfinger]

Ok, I started to install the Sno Pro adj post on my 2010 standard M8. It doesn't look as straight-forward as I expected.

If anyone has done this, some advice would be appreciated.

I removed the seat.

I believe the two seat/tank bolts stay fastened to the tunnel. I took the first one out but after I saw how it was mounted I question the need to remove them.

I removed the alum plate and the two large nuts which hold the fuel tank and steering post guide to the frame loop.

It appears I need to remove the plastic cowling which is bolted to the tank via approx 6 torx screws but even with those removed the tank can't slide backward because the bottom of the cowling is affixed to the frame by a few hard to reach fasteners.



??

 

[KSH]

Ok, I started to install the Sno Pro adj post on my 2010 standard M8. It doesn't look as straight-forward as I expected.

If anyone has done this, some advice would be appreciated.

I removed the seat.

I believe the two seat/tank bolts stay fastened to the tunnel. I took the first one out but after I saw how it was mounted I question the need to remove them.

I removed the alum plate and the two large nuts which hold the fuel tank and steering post guide to the frame loop.

It appears I need to remove the plastic cowling which is bolted to the tank via approx 6 torx screws but even with those removed the tank can't slide backward because the bottom of the cowling is affixed to the frame by a few hard to reach fasteners.



??

To remove tank you need to remove cowling and both footwell covers.

I believe looking at it you may be able to remove the bolts in the loop to replace the post instead of pulling tank.

 

[w8ing4snow]

You do not need to remove the tank. You need to loosen the steering hoop so you can rotate it forward. and it helps to take some of those torx holding the plastic around the tank. but if you rotate the steering loop forward and remove it from the rod that steers the skis. and take the nut holding the post on the bottom. you can get to it with a long extension going between the track and the front heat exchanger. hope this helps.

 

[Coldfinger]

If the tank isn't slid back, how do you get the steering post through the steering post mounting block (part #6 on diagram)?

The mounting block mounting bolts go through the tank and are held on by aluminum nuts. Also, looks like 2 o-rings on the bolts to seal them. I don't want to risk damage and/or possible leaks to these if I don't have to.

Have either of you or anyone else actually done the replacement? I need more confidence before I tear into it any further because the verbal instructions I rec'd when I bought the post was that the tank had to be slid back a few inches.

Thanks.

 

[sledbilly]

If the tank isn't slid back, how do you get the steering post through the steering post mounting block (part #6 on diagram)?
/QUOTE]

I have installed the telescoping bars. You do not need to do anything with the tank. Remove the upper and llower bolts on the steering frame hoop on the pto side and remove the lower bolt on the mag side. Loosen the upper bolt on the mag side. You can then rotate the steering hoop forward enough to remove the block and post. I could not remove the upper hoop bolt on the mag side but didn't try very hard since the hoop will rotate forward enough for what you need.

You can access the nut for the bottom of the post with a long socket extension between the track and bulkhead.

 

[killerrf]

make sure you use at least red loctite for the bolts when reassembled. like the others said you take out the top bolt on either side of the frame to get the post support to move forward a bit then you can get the old post out and new post in. make sure to check that if there is a ground wire on the top bolt on the exhaust side of the sled that you remove out of the steering support that its put back on. could give you real issues if not put back on.

 

[Coldfinger]

I read your replies and took a peek at the sled. Looks like removing the hoop mounting bolt/s will be much easier than the method I was contemplating.

Yes, I did see the wire on the top bolt.

Thanks a lot guys!

Jim

 

[shaneo11]

and you need a couple long extensions to be able to get the nut off on the bottom side of the steering post, in between the bulkhead and track. Then the steering post just pulls up through the steering post mounting block.

 

[Coldfinger]

Great info guys. I got the post in.


Now, when I installed the aluminum plate onto the frame hoop the large electrical connector which is in front of the post gets pressed against the steering post pretty firmly. I took the plate off but I don't see any other way to position the connector.

Any ideas what to do with the connector?
Leave the plate off or make a small cutout where the connector hits?

I believe it rubs now because the new post has more mass at that location compared to the old post.

Thanks.

 

[shaneo11]

I just pushed the connectors back behind the aluminum plate and screwed it down. I think it's kind of a heat shield for the electrical.

 

[silvester]

tuck the connector on the underneath side of the hoop. tape or zip tie it in place, that's how they come stock on the snow pro.

 

[Coldfinger]

tuck the connector on the underneath side of the hoop. tape or zip tie it in place, that's how they come stock on the snow pro.

That's where it is. The connector is so large though that the heat shield presses it against the steering post. I thought about trying to rotate the connector to see if it fits better that way but the wires/looms seem too tight and I didn't want to place undue stress on any wires.

Other experience or ideas?

 

[SaberKitty]

Move the harness/connector to the other side of the steering post. To do that, you'll need to disconnect the harness and possibly loosen back up the upper collar mount and aluminum hoop to sneak the harness behind the post.

 

[rossg12345]

I was wondering if anyone has tried to put these bars in an 05 m7.

 

[Weisers De Luxe]

make sure you use at least red loctite for the bolts when reassembled. like the others said you take out the top bolt on either side of the frame to get the post support to move forward a bit then you can get the old post out and new post in. make sure to check that if there is a ground wire on the top bolt on the exhaust side of the sled that you remove out of the steering support that its put back on. could give you real issues if not put back on.

Just updated our 09 M8 and 1000 this weekend, could not for the life of me find the ground wire on either sled?
Anyways rode the 1000 yesterday and with the bars down it is awsome on the trails, lift the bars up and it is a blast to play in the deep with.
Love the opion, and the simplicity.
Took around 45 minutes using no air tools.

 

[backcountryislife]

I was wondering if anyone has tried to put these bars in an 05 m7.

It has been done & works fine, but I'd avoid the adj. bars if possible.

 

[aaracin]

M6 install of adjustable steering post

The install itself was pretty straightforward and the new post looks to be of very high quality. The cables are too short; it appears that both the throttle and brake are not long enough. This was a surprise, as I did a straight 2 inch lift on my M7 and had no issues. Does anyone have experience with the need for cable extensions?

 

[KSH]

The install itself was pretty straightforward and the new post looks to be of very high quality. The cables are too short; it appears that both the throttle and brake are not long enough. This was a surprise, as I did a straight 2 inch lift on my M7 and had no issues. Does anyone have experience with the need for cable extensions?

You need to use the 09-10 throttle cable and brake line, there longer.
And when I priced them they were cheaper that 07-08 stuff.