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Adding A Battery To The Rmk's For Gps Etc

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mountainhorse

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Quite a few people have asked me about adding a battery to the system for powering up GPS units etc...

A 12volt R/C car ni-cad pack works great for this... Though any 12volt rechargeable battery will do.

You could also use this to power up the MFD (Multi Function Display... the gauge pack). (unplug the headlights first or put a switch on the ground wire for the HL's)

$20 at Tower Hobbies for a good quality battery pack.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=GPMP0253&P=7

Get a couple of the charging plugs too.. One to splice into your sled... the other to charge the pack with a 1 amp or less trickle charger..

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWW68&P=M

Don't use the "scotch" crimp on wire splices... those end up ruining your wire harness.

DON'T USE THESE... THEY SUCK BIG TIME AND WILL RUIN WIRE HARNESSES
s418624.jpg


I will only cut, solder and shrink-tube splice... it's a MUCH better way to do things if you dont want them to fail.

This also comes in handy if you run your sled out of fuel and need to prime the pump.

Do not use the setup below to run anything that has a high current draw to it (like HID lights etc) the accessory plug does not have a high current capacity!!

batterypack.jpg


Put a diode on the charging wire... It wont feedback into the system BUT, you will need to run another wire directly to the GPS unit between the diode and the battery pack.

You want to pull the positive (+) charge regulated-voltage from the Red/white wire which is powered up AFTER the engine is running... You dont want your battery charging to be a drain on the system before the engine fires... that would mess with the ability to start.

In the photo below, you will see the leftmost connector, looks like a 2 conductor trailer-wire plug.... use this as your charging connector. [This is the one under the crook of the guys thumb in the pic] It has a red/white and a brown wire in it. You can buy a mate for this plug at any NAPA store in the elecrical isle for a couple of bucks.

Pic of a 2007 Dragon ... The 2005/2006 900 and 700's have the same plug in the harness around the PTO footwell... Just make sure it has the red/white wire and the Brown wire and you'll be good
fuelprime.jpg


The diode, 4 to a pack, $2.50
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062591

For the fuel prime, you could wire in a small pushbutton switch and splice this into the prime connector... the ground would already be hooked up.

Pushbutton switch $2.50 / 2pcs
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062496&cp
 
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would it not also be possible to use the open conector (o7 700 cfi) next to the secondary which I think would be used for an electric start application.

You should be able to get the wiring harness from Polaris and the wire in a small lead acid /ni-cad or mabey even litium ion battery into the existing harness and also mount the battery right there either with the polaris battery bracket or fab up your own

I am not sure if you can charge a litium ion battery the same as a lead acid battery

the only diff in this method over yours electrically speaking is that the battery will run over the ignition switch insted of only over the diode
 
Rab,

You bring up some good points....This was the easiest/cheapest/lightest way I could think of... as I said above... this battery is not for high current draws like thumb warmers/grip heaters or HID lights... I think that battery box is expensive, and for the electric start option to be powerd up, I think that you have to install another relay...

If you wanted to add all of the "electric start" parts (battery, harness, mount etc... and run whatever you wanted off of it, sure... it will weigh 10 pounds though and cost a fair amount of money... If you wanted to run some high amp draws, yours would be the way to go...
 
Is there any reason I'd actually need to add a battery to run my Garmin 60CSx off the sled electrical system? It runs on something like 9~16VDC with very low current draw. Onboard AA batteries would run it when the sled isn't running.
 
I'd like a little more capacity in the electrical system for a radio... two-way, not AM/FM... Not a lot of current draw on standby/RX, but blowing out even 5W takes a considerable amount of input power. It's not a real high duty-cycle draw either, so that makes things easier to work with; but the power still needs to be available.

Stopped by HRO and played with the FTM10 for a while yesterday when I picked up a new antenna for my truck... Some day i'll have one on my sled...


</geek>
 
Mountainhorse'

I absolutley believer your way is the simplest and the easiest to install and it would perfect for like you said low amp draws

On the other hand though I think it would be possible, but I am not sure on account of I dont have access to the wiring diagram,to install a small battery up there next to the secondary and with just the extra wire harness from polaris wire in the battery so it is only in the system when the key is switched on

I really like the simplicity and proximity of your system to the fuel pump connector for the push button fuel prime

how about my querry on the litium battery charging requirements any ideas
 
Great thread and replies........I read somewhere that wiring your wideband O2 (maybe it was Innovate specific) behind the diode with a battery setup eliminated all the problems people were having. Sounds like the thought behind this was erratic voltage to the O2 was the culprit.

Again, GREAT post and pics. Thanks. EW
 
Rab,

The diode keeps it from backfeeding into the sled electrical... no possibliity of anything but what you have wired to the battery pack draining it....

If you run it thru the key, the other electrical items could drain it... at least that is my thought...

I you were to run it thru the ingnition switch... I'd would install the large "starting" battery and mount like you suggest above. A good option for those that need more power (like that Ham radio, lol)
 
yes the large battery and mabey a hailer LOL

I understand the diode ,not sure where that doubt came into the thread

I will use your system

I will research the litium ion battery requirements and then decide on the type of battery I am going to use
regardless very informative dicussion

Thanks to all
 
Good method, but not a lot of voltage stability with the tiny capacitors...a battery will give better voltage stability to the low amp-draw electronics.
 
Speaking of GPS, I have a 60Cx as well. How are you planning to mount it? I'm thinking I' m going to stay away from Garmin or any other aftermarket mounts. I would hate to see the mount tearing off after a nasty spill. Imagine losing your unit in the deeep powder? eeek. I would like to see it very low profile and completly out of the way. If anyone has suggestions or pictures of your homegrown GPS mounts, I would love to see it.

Thanks,
T
 
Speaking of GPS, I have a 60Cx as well. How are you planning to mount it? I'm thinking I' m going to stay away from Garmin or any other aftermarket mounts. I would hate to see the mount tearing off after a nasty spill. Imagine losing your unit in the deeep powder? eeek. I would like to see it very low profile and completly out of the way. If anyone has suggestions or pictures of your homegrown GPS mounts, I would love to see it.

Thanks,
T

Just get a RAM mount. They're worth it. Even if I do wreck, i'm confident my unit isn't going anywhere. :D
 
I use one of the RAM mounts on my sled and added a cable tether in case the mount breaks:

gps-tether.jpg


The cable and ferrules came from a local farm supply place.
 
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