M
Madprofesor
New member
is there aneyone that has put a artic cat skid on a nytro that has some mounting and alingment info dont think i can use same mounting holes in tunnel
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ac suspention on nytro
- Thread starter Madprofesor
- Start date
Madprofessor:
Lots of guys have done the conversion. TY Mountian Nytro Forum has a thread on it that explains hole locations, etc.
153/162 Cat suspensions share mounting locations, so it makes life a bit easier. I swamped out the 153 ProMountian Air (Yami Nytro) suspension with the Cat 153.
Since skid geometry is totally different between brands, you'll need totally new mounting holes both front and back, meaning you'll need to modify the front reinforcing plates and fabricate new drop brackets.
The Cat skid works well for NA Nytros and is at least 25 lbs lighter but the coupled design (Timbersled, Kmod, etc.) is a much better choice for Turbo/supercharged machines as they keep the front end down when climbing.
OTM
Lots of guys have done the conversion. TY Mountian Nytro Forum has a thread on it that explains hole locations, etc.
153/162 Cat suspensions share mounting locations, so it makes life a bit easier. I swamped out the 153 ProMountian Air (Yami Nytro) suspension with the Cat 153.
Since skid geometry is totally different between brands, you'll need totally new mounting holes both front and back, meaning you'll need to modify the front reinforcing plates and fabricate new drop brackets.
The Cat skid works well for NA Nytros and is at least 25 lbs lighter but the coupled design (Timbersled, Kmod, etc.) is a much better choice for Turbo/supercharged machines as they keep the front end down when climbing.
OTM
C
constech
Active member
I am doing it right now, I am putting a 2010 m8 162 suspension in my 08 Nytro Bluemaxx has done it and is a good friend of mine. I will call him and have him post the details. He posted them a year ago on here if you know how to find it I do not. Message mee if you do not hear back and I will get you his number.
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BOOSTIN-BAYOU
Active member
i did mine last season and the best info you can get is from off trail mike and the thread in ty forum the one thing i would say is take your time and make a jig on for your bolt pattern will make it alot easier for exact hole to hole alignment
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TRUEBLUEMAX
Well-known member
First thing is you will need new drop brackets. This is almost a must have anyway. My "new" style drop brackets weighed about seven pounds each. The aluminum ones were a pound and three ounces. My drop brackets I made out of quarter inch aluminum that was 3.5 wide and about 9" tall.
The front mount I moved up an inch and a half and forward about an inch and a quarter. It ends up being just on the outside of the bead that is formed on the inside of the tunnel for the stock location. The other thing you have to keep in mind is that the front arm on the cat is narrower that the yammi, by about a half inch. You can use washers or get a spacer to put in between the tunnel and the arm.
For the rear what I did first was measure the ride height at the rear bumper before starting any of this process. Set the skid in place with the track installed. Bolt in the front of the suspension. Take and bolt your new rear drop brackets onto the rear arm of the suspension. Using whatever method that you prefer set the rear bumper height to the same height that it was at with the stock skid. (while it may be tempting to jack up the back of the sled at this point to make it sit higher, DON'T. Your steering will be really heavy if you do) Take the skid and get the rear scissor arm so that it is about 3/8" from the stops on the rails or in other words almost fully extended. Now take and clamp your drop brackets to the tunnel. I put mine at a 90 degree angle to the tunnel but I am not sure if the exact angle is deathly important. The other thing to make sure of is that both sides are the exact same length from the front arm mounting points. I made this mistake and had trouble with the track not running straight. Bolt down the drop brackets to the tunnel. You will want to use something low profile or the track will rub on the fasteners.
Last but not least you need a brace to support the running boards. I used 1/8" aluminum riveted to the drop bracket then bent at a 45 degree angle then bent again at the top to match up to the running board. Before I put my Air Frames on I was pretty happy with how much more solid the stock running boards were with these drop brackets.
Last but not least I have the front shock about 3/4 of the way preloaded and the rear shock I run around 130 PSI.
The front mount I moved up an inch and a half and forward about an inch and a quarter. It ends up being just on the outside of the bead that is formed on the inside of the tunnel for the stock location. The other thing you have to keep in mind is that the front arm on the cat is narrower that the yammi, by about a half inch. You can use washers or get a spacer to put in between the tunnel and the arm.
For the rear what I did first was measure the ride height at the rear bumper before starting any of this process. Set the skid in place with the track installed. Bolt in the front of the suspension. Take and bolt your new rear drop brackets onto the rear arm of the suspension. Using whatever method that you prefer set the rear bumper height to the same height that it was at with the stock skid. (while it may be tempting to jack up the back of the sled at this point to make it sit higher, DON'T. Your steering will be really heavy if you do) Take the skid and get the rear scissor arm so that it is about 3/8" from the stops on the rails or in other words almost fully extended. Now take and clamp your drop brackets to the tunnel. I put mine at a 90 degree angle to the tunnel but I am not sure if the exact angle is deathly important. The other thing to make sure of is that both sides are the exact same length from the front arm mounting points. I made this mistake and had trouble with the track not running straight. Bolt down the drop brackets to the tunnel. You will want to use something low profile or the track will rub on the fasteners.
Last but not least you need a brace to support the running boards. I used 1/8" aluminum riveted to the drop bracket then bent at a 45 degree angle then bent again at the top to match up to the running board. Before I put my Air Frames on I was pretty happy with how much more solid the stock running boards were with these drop brackets.
Last but not least I have the front shock about 3/4 of the way preloaded and the rear shock I run around 130 PSI.
M
Madprofesor
New member
thank you for for the info im actuly removing the tunnel for powdercoating and will be relocating the original front brackets to the new mounting location. i do have a set of air frames i am putting on im asuming that i dont need rinning bord suports with them
T
TRUEBLUEMAX
Well-known member
You still need running board supports with the Air Frames. Look at them and you will see that the ones for the 10 and newer tunnel have a nice little spot on the running board to connect to the drop bracket. Besides it is a very easy part to fab that adds a lot of strength.
T
TApeX_07
Active member
Im curious as to way so many people are doing the Cat swap?? Sounds like a lot of work.
The polaris skid bolts right into the Nytro chassis. Poo skid 155= Yamaha 162 track
Link to the info on TY... http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=106231&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=pro+skid&start=15
The polaris skid bolts right into the Nytro chassis. Poo skid 155= Yamaha 162 track
Link to the info on TY... http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=106231&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=pro+skid&start=15
Last edited:
i have an 08 155 skid but in need of some shocks for it, i do not like the air shocks that are in it & would like some coil overs like the new ones as long as this would work for my nytro
T
TRUEBLUEMAX
Well-known member
Im curious as to way so many people are doing the Cat swap?? Sounds like a lot of work.
The polaris skid bolts right into the Nytro chassis. Poo skid 155= Yamaha 162 track
Link to the info on TY... http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=106231&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=pro+skid&start=15
For one reason or another it seems like there are a lot of the Cat skids available and not really many of the Poo skids. Plus they are cheap.
Lets not forget that the example that you posted from TY is not a proven commodity. Till it hits the snow it is hard to say how well it will work out.
Hopefully it works great. I still think it is kind of sad that other people's stock skids are a great "upgrade" for us. Oh well, I guess having a motor that doesn't blow up all the time would be an upgrade for the smokers.
Im curious as to way so many people are doing the Cat swap?? Sounds like a lot of work.
The polaris skid bolts right into the Nytro chassis. Poo skid 155= Yamaha 162 track
Link to the info on TY... http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=106231&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=pro+skid&start=15
Tapex:
I would offer this: Sure $ is part of it, but IMHO they simply work really well on the Nytro chassis....
Why? For me there are 2 reasons:
1. The shorter radius of the rails up front has the effect of getting the sled up on the snow way faster than the stock Yami skid (even the 2010 and newer ones). I think its in part due to the length of the 18 deg. angled section of the track up front (being longer than yami) and in part, again thanks to the short radius, the AC rails probably has 6 more inches on the snow for any given track length. The AC design can't be too bad, because the stock Timbersled rails (Ice Age) have an almost identical rail profile.
2. It is an easy skid to adjust, meaning you feel seat-of-the-pants changes when adjustments are made to preload and dampening.
I also have a 2010 Timbersled skid, and althought I've only had it on for a couple of rides so far, both perform very well in powder (I would give the TS the nod on the trail however as it is a bit plusher)
Is it worth all the work? Well, I swapped out a 153 for a 153, more to compare between similar length skids, so in my case, the answer is absolutely yes. But am really curious to see how well you like your Poo skid setup. It is definitely worth the swap and is another variant much easier to try..
Keep us posted.
OTM
Do you guys think a 153 cat skid would work for a 159 in a 06 viper? Its got the same pro mountain skid as the 08 nytro just with rail extensions now. Hate that heavy pos skid. thanks
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TRUEBLUEMAX
Well-known member
I have one in my Mountain Max with a 159. So I would think it should work.
OTM, I understand why people want to swap skids. The stock skid sucks, compared to others. My general Q was, why the AC vs the Poo? As the poo skids are becoming easier to get..
And I'm running a TS myself. Not the Pro.
Tapex:
Sorry for the late response...I'm up to my a** in aligators lately!
Why cat? My reasons are more to do with experience. I've driven many AC's, so I knew what I was getting. The Poo's, not so much. Both are well built, light weight, scissor type rear suspensions and should have very similar performance in any sled . I'd be willing to bet by playing with shock setup, you could set them so you couldn't tell them apart on the snow.
My take on suspension swaps is you have to get the track geometry right. Its not about reusing mounting holes, but more about track length, driver diameter and angle of attack/front rail radius.
Both the AC and Poo do a better job of getting more track on the snow at a slight loss of ground clearance (relative to the Nytro). This tradeoff makes these skids much better performers hands down...oh yeah, the 20 lbs lighter part doesn't hurt either.
Obviously they are good designs, because both AC and Poo have been using the same basic design for quite a while.
OTM
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