A Day with a Dobeck Fuel Controller - KTM 500

[AKdragon700]

My Fellow Snowbikers,

After almost a year and a half of gathering parts from the west coast and searching all over Alaska for a competent titanium welder, I have finally gotten my Dobeck O2 Sensor installed on my FMF titanium exhaust and wrapped!

I am very excited to see the performance gains of the KTM 500, especially during adverse conditions.

I have read through my tuning sheet multiple times and still don't fully comprehend when you use which mode and for which purpose.

Could someone please explain to me how a normal day with their Dobeck Fuel Controller goes?

And lets say its a new spot that you've never been to and the weather is colder than usual....

Also, Closed Loop vs. Open Loop?

Mode 1- Green - IDLE/LOW SPEED FUELING - OPEN LOOP


Say its -20 F, the bike is really really cold, how do I utilize this mode the most efficient and safest way?

Mode 2- Yellow- CRUISE FUELING MODE- CLOSED LOOP

Fuel Economy Mode? The ride up to the zone?

Mode 3- Red - FULL THROTTLE/HIGH LOAD FUELING- CLOSED LOOP

Most Active Setting for Snowbikes?

Mode 4 - Green-Blue - ACCELERATION FUELING MODE - OPEN LOOP

Only engages for a few seconds? Worthless mode?

Mode 5- Yellow-Blue - GREEN TO YELLOW SWITCH POINT

How often does one ride with mode 5 and 6 engaged?

"Determines the transition point between corresponding zones. The higher the setting the longer it takes for a zone to engage, the lower the setting the faster a zone will engage"

Mode 6 - Red-Blue - YELLOW TO RED SWITCH POINT

"Determines the transition point between corresponding zones. The higher the setting the longer it takes for a zone to engage, the lower the setting the faster a zone will engage"



Any advice helps, just trying to save time fiddling around with it on the first day out. Thanks!

 

[teal_210]

Green zone: might take a minor adjustment in the morning if you're way off the afr that you want.

Yellow zone: you don't really need or want this on a snowbike. I'd leave it at the factory setting.

Red zone: set the afr you want and leave it. I run 12.8
Green blue: 13 works best for me, which I believe is no change from stock.

Now this is where 99% of people get confused. These zones are not afr readings, just a point that you set to tell the controller to switch from green to yellow and yellow to red. The numbers for these are simply higher or lower with a 13 being the middle.

Yellow blue (transition from green to yellow). I set this so that as soon as I touch the throttle it goes to yellow. Usually about 12.5.

Red blue (transition from yellow to red) here I want to get into the red zone asap so that my bike is running closed loop at 12.8 afr. So to make the transiton happen asap I set this to the lowest number.

Essentially it will switch from green when I hit the throttle right past yellow to red. The yellow is an unnecessary zone fo snowbikes. It's there for a cruiser type application where you want to lean the bike out so save fuel.

 

[ges]

i would set the TPS at 65 if your at say 9000 and up, set at 67 at 4000 to 9000 and it will run flawless no need for any other tuning on ours any ways

 

[Rush44]

Teal has the info down. He's been using the Dobeck almost as long as I have. I set my Yellow/Blue a bit different from him but it's for the basic same result.

Another thing to know is that on the new code the Blue light comes on when you are successfully in Closed Loop Mode (meaning the controller is adjusting AFR on the fly to achieve your desired Yellow or Red AFR setting). Anytime the blue light isn't on means you are simply working off your % trim in Green Mode from whatever stock fuel the ECU tells the injector to deliver.